Soft water in a hard water state

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Chicxulub

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Ok folks, I've recently latched onto the idea of trying to get soft, acidic water in my aquarium, but I'm pulling well water from a limestone aquifer with tons of calcium carbonate and a decidedly alkaline ph. Admittedly, I lack the chemicals to get exact numbers at the moment, but I intend to rectify that soon. Water from my aquifer is notoriously hard and alkaline, so it's safe to assume my water is the same.

I'd like to get water that is as soft as possible, with a pH of 6 or so, similar to the typical Amazon basin blackwater. I know that to do this, I'm going to need to neutralize the calcium carbonate in my water, but I'm not sure how to approach this to accomplish my goal.

I'm going to be exploring this on my own, but I figure the wealth of knowledge present here should at least be able to help point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance! :)

Rob
 
This is my brainstorm list of pH reducers, but I've never used them. I'm partial to leaves for coloring the water.

1) Rain water. I've seen pH levels of 5.7 in California, but I think it's acidic in most places. Only useful imo if you can collect it anywhere but off a roof.

2) Leaves, probably oak leaves, although other leaves will work. These I've heard are effective and have a slow continuous effect. Need to be replenished from time to time.

3) Peat (or Peat Moss?) Iirc, this works as well. Readily available in large amounts for a low cost.

4) Pure Industrial white vinegar (5%, no additives.) Works almost instantly.

I haven't needed to lower my pH, but these are on my list if I do. I typically look for natural and not artificial solutions, but I imagine there might be resins that do the same thing.
 
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Soft water that has a calcium ion replaced with a calcium ion, which is how a home water softener works, is not truly soft water like that from the Amazon. true soft water lacks a heavy concentration of solids such as minerals. The most practical way to get your water truly softened is by distillation (boiling and collecting steam).
 
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HMA or RO seems like the only feasible way to produce consistent parameters imo. If the goal is to keep sensitive species this is a bit more important.
 
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HMA or RO seems like the only feasible way to produce consistent parameters imo. If the goal is to keep sensitive species this is a bit more important.
Sorry brain fart! R/O would be the most practical method for removing solids
 
The most practical way to get your water truly softened is by distillation (boiling and collecting steam).
Hello; I have a small water still that will produce around a gallon of water at a time. It simply boils the water and then condenses the steam with a short coil of what appears to be stainless steel. It uses electricity to heat the water and my guess is that it is not very energy efficient.
I also have a karst type geological formation in my area. Lots of sinkholes and limestone caves. After I run a few gallons thru the still there is a considerable buildup left behind.

I have been thinking of setting up a small tank or two of 5 to 10 gallons for a try at killie fish or perhaps the small ram cichlids. I do not think it would be practical to try this for a large tank. It might be near the same cost to buy the distilled water at a store.

I have considered an RO unit. My understanding being that a substantial amount of water goes down the drain. Is this correct?
 
I have considered an RO unit. My understanding being that a substantial amount of water goes down the drain. Is this correct?
That is correct. Although I think the amount of "waste water" has been significantly reduced in recent years. The waste water doesn't necessarily have to go down the drain. It can be reused for other things such as refilling toilet tanks or watering plants.
 
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Rob - use RO. Set up a drip system and drip 50/50 ratio (RO to tap). The 50% hard water will stabilize it and keep it from wild swings. You can't run pure RO. It is not stable enough on it's own and need reconstitution from the RO process for trace elements.

You can do this the analog way too. Look up a water mixing station. Metrics tons of info online from the reef guys. Identical concept in your case. But you can manually control the 50/50 part. Which ever approach you take, this is the most economical and reliable way to do it.
 
Rob - use RO. Set up a drip system and drip 50/50 ratio (RO to tap). The 50% hard water will stabilize it and keep it from wild swings. You can't run pure RO. It is not stable enough on it's own and need reconstitution from the RO process for trace elements.

You can do this the analog way too. Look up a water mixing station. Metrics tons of info online from the reef guys. Identical concept in your case. But you can manually control the 50/50 part. Which ever approach you take, this is the most economical and reliable way to do it.

Thanks! This is pretty much what I was thinking about doing, minus the 50/50 part. I'm glad you mentioned that, I'm gonna have to do some research.

Do you suspect that the 50/50 mix would still result in very soft, neutral water? I'm hoping to accomplish the same kind of thing as the wild discus keepers aim for with a pH of 5.5 or so and super softness, but I don't know how feasible this will be.

I know I've got a lot of homework ahead of me, but that's ok. I've got time. :)

I appreciate you guys pointing me in the right direction. The ultimate goal is to get my juruense to show the super bright, vivid yellow that seems to only happen on wild fish in their native soft, acid waters. :)
 
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