Some ideas

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mike dunagan

Feeder Fish
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Nov 11, 2006
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Okay I will be setting up a few tanks soon, and I will have an empty tank in my show tank room. It is a 4ft 120. I want to do some trophues and gobies. I am not sure what to get in that area. I have looked at a few, but I need some advice on what if any possible combinations of trophues I can do. I like the gobies that are black and blue. Can I mix those too?

Please I know the basics of Trophues, like food and water and all that jazz, but confused on rules for multiple colonies of trophs...
 
A lot of people just feed NLS to their Trophs. They usually alternate it with a veggie flake from day to day. I've been told that they will be fine on NLS alone.
Idea wise, these are my next buy. Most likely for the 150 when it is set up. Might get some ikola also.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/species.php?id=1895

A far as Gobies, get these guys:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/species.php?id=1520

I hear the dubosi trophs will go with about any other troph. You might check those out
 
I will feed them NLS, and that is the goby I have in mind... I am wondering if I can mix the gobies...

Also, anyone have experience mixing colonies? if so what types... I am looking for something with reds perhaps... Somewhere I saw an article that gave this type of info, but I was looking for some other experiences.... I have done a lot of research on the care, but I was going to do a species only at that time, but now I would like to go bigger... is it do able in a 120?
 
another great tankemate for tropheus and gobies is variabilichromis moorii, they live in the same are, and in some sites it says that they are omnivor but they are mostly vegetarians. and their aggressivness makes them a little place in a tropheus tank
 
I keep 36 Tropheus Moliro, and 20 Tropheus Brichardi Ulwile in the same tank with 10 WC Petrochromis Famula, 2 WC Spathodus Erythrodon, and 2 WC Eretmodus Mpimbwe. They fight amongst themselves but dont bother with other variants or species. If you mix two groups you will have one dominant group and one passive group. The passive group will never show optimum colors, and having two groups will inhibit breeding. I also have a 110 gallon with 34 Tropheus Nkonde, and they are always colored up, and have continuous breeding activity. I would personally stick with one big colony. If your filtration is up to par in your 120, you can get away with around 40 fish give or take. If your interested in Reds, i am selling my 36 Tropheus Sp. Red Moliro.
 
I dont know a ton about trophs but you really do need to look into their diet and just not throw in NLS pellets. I did that with my duboisi and the NLS pellets gave them lot of problems. There digestion system is alot slower and they need vegie diet b/c it brakes down easier and they can digest that better if you give them to much protien you will start to have issues. Each troph is different so make sure you do alot of research for the type you are mixing so they eat the same things. If you feed them Id suggest a veggie mix. Just wanted to throw that out there as I learned my lesson on that one the hard way.
 
Thanks for the information. I am well aware of their diets. I have talked to many who breed cichlids including those in the club I am in. Again I have the food issue taken care of.

Now with mixing the colonies, I am not interested in breeding these guys. They are going into a show tank setup. I have a separate breeding area that I will use for other groups. What do they look like with color being held back?

The tank filtration will be on a large sump setup connected with a total of three 120s.
 
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