mbuna
Cynotilapia sp. "hara"
Labidochromis sp. "Hongi" or (SRT)
Metriaclima callainos
Pseudotropheus sp. "Williamsi North"
Pseudotropheus socolofi (Albino)
Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Ngara)
HAP
Copadichromis borleyi (Kadango)
Copadichromis trewavasae
Placidochromis electra (Mandalawi)
Protomelas marginatus
Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan" (Albino)
Tramitichromis brevis
peacock
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi (Undu Reef)
Cynotilapia sp. "hara"
Labidochromis sp. "Hongi" or (SRT)
Metriaclima callainos
Pseudotropheus sp. "Williamsi North"
Pseudotropheus socolofi (Albino)
Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Ngara)
HAP
Copadichromis borleyi (Kadango)
Copadichromis trewavasae
Placidochromis electra (Mandalawi)
Protomelas marginatus
Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan" (Albino)
Tramitichromis brevis
peacock
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi (Undu Reef)
) are pretty good as they don't ever pick fights but always end them if you know what I mean. A good "don"(yes that is a godfather reference) will really help and can bring the over all aggression and the slow aggression attrition that will kill off lesser fish down to almost nothing. The other recommendation and one that is a necessity if you end up with a rouge don who likes terrorizing the tank is to drop in some dither fish. I use monos for similar tanks of males as I think they look amazing and have never lost one to harassment. Others have recommended tiger barbs, giant danios, rainbows, whatever matches best with your fish aggression levels(rainbows don't fair well with super aggressive) and fish size(barbs become food if you keep them with larger cichlids) Min of 3 in a school, 5 is optimal. The only way I was able to keep my fish alive at school with my ctenochromis horei was through the presence of a trio of monos. The dither fish are oblivious to the social structure of the other fish and will swim through all the different territories that form and really mix things up. Synodontis are also great for this but not nearly as effective. Mixing synos and monos is perfect.