Stand Build

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muffywrx

muffywrx

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 15, 2011
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lincoln, NE
View attachment 613418

This was my original plan, but I'm probably going to use simple 2x4s ... I will also probably only have supports on each side of the sump going across the bottom, to keep the stand together depth wise, instead of the 3 original planned evenly spaced. This allows the sump to be on the floor.

It is for a GLASS 300g wide tank (96x30x25)

Here are my questions

1. Can I use ALL 2x4 wood or should I use 4x4 in some sections?

2. What type of screw should I use and can I use a normal drill to screw them in? I have seen 2" wood screws and also have seen decking screws... This of course alongside using wood glue.

3. Should I put supports on the top brim going across, or should I put a piece of plywood on top? I have seen that glass tanks should only be supported on the edge, but I'm unsure of what is best to do with a large tank.

4. How tall should my stand be with a 23" tall sump? Will ~28-30" total work for having room for the plumbing?

5. Should I protect the stand with a sealant and what works best?

We are looking at having to attach the top and bottom to the supports after the tank arrives ... This is becoming a big ordeal but I definitely want to do it. My fish room is so small, it's only like 7ish feet by 11ish feet and I'm trying to squeeze a 2.5x8 tank into that space lol.

Still trying to figure out how heavy the 300g (25in tall) tank will be empty...
I had more questions but don't remember them..

Thanks in advance for any input.

Jessica
 
normal drywall/general purpose screws
4x4s are kinda overkill and hard to find(kinda)

id stick with 2x4s

if the bottom of the tank is flat then use plywood under the tank otherwise i wouldnt

menards is cheapest for materials here in des moines(i work there) anyway... i dont know about NE tho
 
I would also suggest using Titebond III to glue the joints.
Titebond III is a wood glue that is not water soluble and creates a joint stronger than the wood itself.

The hammer settiing on the hammer drill is only for drilling hard material like stone/concrete with the appropriate bits. Don't use the hammer setting.

Pre-drill your holes especially towards the edge of a piece of wood. Doing so will prevent splitting.
By pre-drill I mean drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw.
 
zalnn;5135542; said:
The hammer settiing on the hammer drill is only for drilling hard material like stone/concrete with the appropriate bits. Don't use the hammer setting.

Pre-drill your holes especially towards the edge of a piece of wood. Doing so will prevent splitting.
By pre-drill I mean drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw.
Click to expand...

this^

predrilling makes everything easier and any basic drill will work.


i wouldnt glue anything tho... thats just me tho
 
Using glue along with screws can only add strength. It may be overkill but id rather that than a stand failing and dropping a tank weighing almost a ton onto someone standing in front of it.
 
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