Sump Design help

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jimpru

Exodon
MFK Member
Aug 9, 2012
32
2
23
Huntsville, Al
I have been a visitor on this site for a few months now. Started when I rescued a 240gal tank (72x24x30). I have been inspired to get back into the hobby after looking at some of the tanks in the various threads. Some amazing tanks and a lot of info to digest.


My biggest area of concern is the sump. A lot of information on the web, but I can't seem to find the specifics and hoping someone will help point me in the right direction or guide me through the setup.


Since my tank is not drilled I will be drilling it for the overflows. My thoughts are to get the kits from glass holes.com. Just not sure of which kit to get. Either the 1500 or 3000/2 kit. They do offer one in just a 3000 single kit so not sure if that is the best route or if having one in each corner is better. Any advice/help is appreciated.


For the sump I was thinking of using an old 55gal tank but not sure if that would be sufficient enough for a tank of this size. Thus far I have not been able to find much info that would help me determine if that would be large enough or if I need to go bigger. Was going to section it off with 1/4 plexiglass but not sure of exactly how (did I mention I was new to sumps).


While I have the basic theory down it is the actual setup of the sump I need some help with.


Figured once I get the filtration down then I will work on the rest. I have started building the stand for it and it is about 75% complete and pretty much have an ideal on the fish I would like. so now I am looking to do the filtration and hoping that someone wouldn't mind helping an old guy learn a new trick about keeping aquariums and cichlids


Thanks in advance for the help
 
I would go with the 3000/2. 3 returns. The sump is large enough if you use it to make a moving or fluidized bed filter. I just made one and it processed ammonia from 8+PPM to zero in less than 24 hours. You don't need compartments. Powerheads and airstones to tumble the media. Filter socks for mechanical. A good DC powered return pump.

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I have a 245G with a 60G sump filled with 1/2 (2/3 pond matrix, 1/3 alfa grog), and 1/2 poret foam. After 2 weeks my nitrates are just under 20ppm. I have 27 sunfish with an average size of about 6-7". I run a laguna 800 for my return pump, so around 500 GPH. 2x turnover.
I also have a RUGF running at 1500 GPH, pothos, and frogbit so it's a little hard to determine just how well my sump would be doing on it's own...
final sump R.gif

here's my final design. the baffles are 3/8" glass, I've read you shouldn't silicone acrylic and glass together due to differences in hot/cold contraction. no idea if it's true or not.

final sump R.gif
 
A sump is a place to put stuff, not to be confused with a filter.
Design of sump depends on what stuff, and the components of filtration you use.
I don't know about temp, but I wouldn't silicone, just because as things evolve you may want to change them dependent upon your particular needs.
As 1 person suggested, part could be a fluidized bed.
I use bio towers that cascade into some of my sumps, and fractionate. Some sumps use plant filtration, and function as refugiums. I also put heaters and pumps all in the sumps to keep mechanical looking stuff out of the tank.
You can use 50gal tanks, or larger, or smaller depending on need for space.
I usually run 3 or 4 tanks per 50 gallon sump (300 to 500 gallons per bank of tanks). At the moment I have 3 sumps covering about 16 tanks, with inbetween planted sump/refugiums on 2.
The possibilities are endless, and there are really no fast and hard rules.
Pipe diameter of overflows can be very important though, if too small they can overflow.
I like to use at least 1.5" PVC to sumps, I've tried smaller and those have easily plugged.
 
Gents thanks for the info thus far. One other questions is it ok to use a glass aquarium with 1/4 plexiglass dividers as the sump. I have a 75gal I am thinking of using.
Thanks
 
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