Sump for my 360G

[Gar88]

I have a 360g build going on and would like to clarify and get advise on my sump as i am yet to fix the baffles.
The sump is sized at 60"X24"X18". Here is a simple design i have worked on.


The pump i have is http://www.sunsun-china.com/en/product/html/?998.html

Yall think the sump design holds good?. There are two overflow boxes with drilled holes in the bottom. They will have dursostand pipes. The drain holes are 1.5" and the supply holes are 1.25".

Thanks,

Najib

PS: Here is the thread to my tank build
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...026-DIY-450G-Glass-Tank&p=6192269#post6192269

 

[Drstrangelove]

Okay, small things, since I'm not sure I am reading the design correctly. The design says 60x18x18, but the text says 60x24x18. I'll assume it's 60x24x18.

1) there needs to be a spot so the water can overflow where the filter sock is into the second compartment. The baffle can drop just one inch at the top or maybe drill some holes.
2) same thing on the other side (the tallest one on the other side near the pump). There should always be a way for the water to reach the pump even if the filters get clogged.
3) the "*" over top of the scrubbies is some type of easily cleanable sponge or mechanical filter, yes? Ot maybe, it's just the holes? I would put at least a thin sponge to catch anything that misses the filter sock since it can over flow once clogged. You are better off keeping the bio media as clear of debris as reasonably possible.
4) I'm sure many people would say that "there is better submersible material" if this were bio balls. I think the same may be true for scrubbies. Matrix might be a good option.
5) I don't really have any input on the clay balls.

 

[waynes world]

I would also as above plus get 2 return pumps with a bigger capacity than 8000lph, as you will know thats only 5 times turnover, i would go with atleast 2 pumps at 6000lph.

 

[Gar88]

Okay, small things, since I'm not sure I am reading the design correctly. The design says 60x18x18, but the text says 60x24x18. I'll assume it's 60x24x18.

1) there needs to be a spot so the water can overflow where the filter sock is into the second compartment. The baffle can drop just one inch at the top or maybe drill some holes.
2) same thing on the other side (the tallest one on the other side near the pump). There should always be a way for the water to reach the pump even if the filters get clogged.
3) the "*" over top of the scrubbies is some type of easily cleanable sponge or mechanical filter, yes? Ot maybe, it's just the holes? I would put at least a thin sponge to catch anything that misses the filter sock since it can over flow once clogged. You are better off keeping the bio media as clear of debris as reasonably possible.
4) I'm sure many people would say that "there is better submersible material" if this were bio balls. I think the same may be true for scrubbies. Matrix might be a good option.
5) I don't really have any input on the clay balls.

Thank u Dr...
Made small changes in the sump. Installed one extra baffle after the first one. So there are three baffles. I might have goofed up with the height on the first one, but gave 2" gaps between them. The stuff above the scrubbies would be a drip plate. Your suggestion on the sponge I thought was not necessary but will surely consider it since u mentioned debris The last baffle I kept at 10".
Not sure Matrix would be available around here. Will read more on that. And for clay balls, they are actually called pop soil. Used in aquaponics nowadays. Very highly porous and has been working wonders on my pond in keeping the water crystal clear. I blv that is one of the best bio media available for me. The only issue is, it floats and does not sink. Mebbe it's not an issue after all




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[Gar88]

I would also as above plus get 2 return pumps with a bigger capacity than 8000lph, as you will know thats only 5 times turnover, i would go with atleast 2 pumps at 6000lph.

Thank u Waynes... I did consider having higher turnover. But chose as of now just for 5x. Will see how the system works and tweak it depending on the need. My main concern is drying up of the last compartment.


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[Drstrangelove]

I was thinking Seachem Matrix. Honestly, it can be an option if you choose to use it later. As long as you have adequate bio media, you'll be fine and the test will be as you feed the fish and watch your water readings. Over time, if you want to make changes, you'll have that as a possible submerged media to consider.

As far as the sponge over the bio media, I highly recommend that. The bio media will be more efficient and require less maintenance if it's kept as free from debris as reasonably possible. A 25% more efficient bio filter will give you and the fish a 25% greater margin of error in case something unexpected happens. Of course, it will work without it and people do that all the time.

 

[Gar88]

I was thinking Seachem Matrix. Honestly, it can be an option if you choose to use it later. As long as you have adequate bio media, you'll be fine and the test will be as you feed the fish and watch your water readings. Over time, if you want to make changes, you'll have that as a possible submerged media to consider.

As far as the sponge over the bio media, I highly recommend that. The bio media will be more efficient and require less maintenance if it's kept as free from debris as reasonably possible. A 25% more efficient bio filter will give you and the fish a 25% greater margin of error in case something unexpected happens. Of course, it will work without it and people do that all the time.

The matrix stuff is available around here. Will def look into it . Thank u for the suggestion.


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