surfing

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jason longboard

Piranha
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2007
3,830
95
81
california
how many soul surfers here?Its ok if you dont live right at the beach.just got it in your blood.
 
I'm a newbie at body boarding. I just started it this summer and habe been going constantly. Eventually, I will move over to surfing...
 
I'm about as big as you can get into surfing while living in NJ. Sucks because every trip is a 45min ride at least.
 
I used to be a pro body boarder (DK, not bellyboarder), but nowadays I surf sponge, or bodywhomp, whatever best suits the type of wave I happen to encounter. I live at the beach though, so getting out daily isnt a problem. Wheras some of you folks drive long distances to the beach and will gladly surf however the conditions may be, I am spoiledand sometimes wont even go out unless conditions are optimal.
 
I'd like to but like 4 hours from the beach.. :(
 
i always go out rgardless of the size or chop but its usualy to get the exersize,if there are no waves i just like to go past the sets and padle up and down the beach.I want to get a kyak for the flat days so i can go out exploring,just like bein out there i guess.I got family at several beachs so thats nice and i have a camper i take wich is even nicer,its a 13 foot 1966 and it gives that nastalgic feeling.something about bodyboarding with half my body under water just trips me out,did that alot when i was younger but always feel like im bein falowed,you know,under there!I surf ventura,sant barbara,pismo,moro bay,huntington and all the inbeetweens.Anyone surf malibu?
 
Either somewhere in Laguna Beach or I also have a house in Baja, about 2 hrs south of Ensenada on the beach. Soooooo much uncrowded surf there, plus epic beachbreak for miles right out in front of my house with noone EVER out but me and my peeps.
 
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