First, a small aquarium such as a Nano Reef can be difficult for a beginner, as many problems can accelerate in an aquarium this small. For this reason I recommend a first marine aquarium to be at least 40 gallons (although I know of many an aquarist who have started this way and have done great!)
That said, for Nano reefs much of this basic information applies. A UV sterilizer is still a good idea (although not essential) if it can be fitted to your Nano reef (a small internal filter such as a "Via Aqua 305 Internal Filter" connected to a compact UV works well)
* Another popular and simple Nano Reef set up is with an aquarium with a built-in Wet-Dry filter such as the "Complete Dream Aquarium". This type aquarium is simple and functional as a Nano Reef. Make sure you keep the polycarbonate cover over the lights clean to allow proper UVA transmission. With this style aquarium you can still add a separate internal filter with a small UV Sterilizer, or you could even divert the water return to the Sterilizer.
*Cured live rock is a must and can used to substitute bio balls as well (break up the CURED live rock into 1 fragments for this). You can also add live rock fragments in canister filter, wet/dry even HOB. I have also used live sand (in a nylon) bag to an Aqua Clear filter or similar for a simple Nano Filter.
Good filtration is a must for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available too. I recommend a filtration turnover rate of 4 times tank volume per hour (combined all filters) minimum, however your in tank circulation (counting power heads, air stones, etc.) should be OVER 8 times per hour.
Filtration is also performed by Live Rock, so please read more in the section about the Berlin Method (Live Rock) further down in this article.
*Canister filters are good for their capacity, but can become Nitrate factories if not rinsed very regularly. I do not recommend Fluvals due to their poor impeller design. Via Aqua. Eheim, Jebo, and Magnum are the ones I recommend.
To improve on the nitrate factory aspect of these filters, I prefer to add volumes of cure live rock crumbles/rubble or volcanic rock to my canister filters. For higher flow rates I recommend larger crumbles (to provide less penetration of oxygen into the live rock so as to insure anaerobic bacterial growth). 4-5 centimeters is what I have generally used in live rock rubble size.
For more about canister filters, please see this article: "Aquarium Filtration."
*Wet/Dry filters are good, but usually are poor mechanical filters. The bio ball media in them also should be rinsed regularly in de-chlorinated water to prevent a buildup of organic material, increasing nitrates (I prefer to use broken cured live rock or volcanic rock pieces instead of bio balls). Common Wet/Dry systems are what are considered open loop systems which employs a sump (as compared to a closed loop that has no open sump).
*Protein Skimmers employ a chamber with a column of fine bubbles. Surface tension attracts organic waste to the bubbles & carries it through the column (this is called foam fractionation); then it is "skimmed" into a collection cup
That said, for Nano reefs much of this basic information applies. A UV sterilizer is still a good idea (although not essential) if it can be fitted to your Nano reef (a small internal filter such as a "Via Aqua 305 Internal Filter" connected to a compact UV works well)
* Another popular and simple Nano Reef set up is with an aquarium with a built-in Wet-Dry filter such as the "Complete Dream Aquarium". This type aquarium is simple and functional as a Nano Reef. Make sure you keep the polycarbonate cover over the lights clean to allow proper UVA transmission. With this style aquarium you can still add a separate internal filter with a small UV Sterilizer, or you could even divert the water return to the Sterilizer.
*Cured live rock is a must and can used to substitute bio balls as well (break up the CURED live rock into 1 fragments for this). You can also add live rock fragments in canister filter, wet/dry even HOB. I have also used live sand (in a nylon) bag to an Aqua Clear filter or similar for a simple Nano Filter.
Good filtration is a must for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available too. I recommend a filtration turnover rate of 4 times tank volume per hour (combined all filters) minimum, however your in tank circulation (counting power heads, air stones, etc.) should be OVER 8 times per hour.
Filtration is also performed by Live Rock, so please read more in the section about the Berlin Method (Live Rock) further down in this article.
*Canister filters are good for their capacity, but can become Nitrate factories if not rinsed very regularly. I do not recommend Fluvals due to their poor impeller design. Via Aqua. Eheim, Jebo, and Magnum are the ones I recommend.
To improve on the nitrate factory aspect of these filters, I prefer to add volumes of cure live rock crumbles/rubble or volcanic rock to my canister filters. For higher flow rates I recommend larger crumbles (to provide less penetration of oxygen into the live rock so as to insure anaerobic bacterial growth). 4-5 centimeters is what I have generally used in live rock rubble size.
For more about canister filters, please see this article: "Aquarium Filtration."
*Wet/Dry filters are good, but usually are poor mechanical filters. The bio ball media in them also should be rinsed regularly in de-chlorinated water to prevent a buildup of organic material, increasing nitrates (I prefer to use broken cured live rock or volcanic rock pieces instead of bio balls). Common Wet/Dry systems are what are considered open loop systems which employs a sump (as compared to a closed loop that has no open sump).
*Protein Skimmers employ a chamber with a column of fine bubbles. Surface tension attracts organic waste to the bubbles & carries it through the column (this is called foam fractionation); then it is "skimmed" into a collection cup
