Update and Tons Of Questions! Bearded Dragon and Ackie Monitor

Pazzoman

Piranha
MFK Member
Apr 5, 2009
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Hey Everyone,

Figured I give an update and hopefully get some questions answered. Not sure exactly how old both my Lizards are but assuming they are getting pretty close to the year mark since they were both babies in November of last year. So I would assume at least 8-9 months old. My dragon was undergoing calcium issues mainly do to a non veggie diet apparently. However now he crushes everything insight roaches and veggies. Wish I could say the same for my ackie, his appetite isn't as great as it used to be not sure whats off, think its because he is having a hard time adjusting to his new set up. Basically made a platform for both lizards where they have to climb a ramp to the platform to bask.

1.What would you consider a good basking temp for a near year old dragon? Notice this varies on the web?
2.What should food schedule start looking like? Currently been feeding roaches one day, next day veggies and so on?
3. What should be the tempter of the dragon set up day time and night time? Ambient temperature, so non basking?

Ackie:

1. Would heat tape melt paint, say this because I think the ambient temp of the ackie set up is too cold around 70, so was thinking of putting heat mat on the back of the tank to warm it up originally had it on plastic tubbaware so its defiantly not crazy hot, would it be ok to place it behind a painted glass tank?

2. Could the light cycle be the reason why my ackie seems not eager to eat? When I get out of work it sometimes 2 hours into the night light cycle which always my ackie is sleeping. Should I push the time to have the day light on when I come home from work? Like 12pm day lights on, 12am day lights off?

3. Im thinking about starting to give him pinkies to help him grow faster, not sure if I have to cut them, or is the rule the same with dragons distance between the eyes or are monitors more tolerating of larger food items?

Also in case it helps for not till he is bigger has about 6 inches of dirt some areas deeper, hasn't been burrowing much, but defiantly the soil is moist enough for burrowing.
 

krj-1168

Fire Eel
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Aug 25, 2006
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Well - both beardies and ackies require hot basking spots - with the other side of their cage being in the upper 70's -low 80's. So they can thermoregulated as needed.

For beardies their basking temps should be at least 120-125 F. Any cooler than that can cause problems(digestion, & growth) - and may require the beardies more time under the basking light. As for the air (Ambient) temperature - it should be in the 95-100F in the daytime on the basking side, and in the upper 70s-low 80's on the cool side. At night - it is good to keep the temps near 75-80F. Also beardies require UVA & UVB light. In terms of the Beardies diet - they are basically omnivores. As juveniles - they are most carnivorous. But as they get closer to adulthood - the become more omnivorous. At a year old - their diet should be no more than 50% insects - 50% veggies.
 
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krj-1168

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Aug 25, 2006
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Eastern NC
Ackies generally require higher basking temps than beardies do.

. How high basically depends on the sub-species(reds vs yellows). The Yellows are generally from the central deserts of Australia - so they tend to prefer - low humidity(20-40%) but hot conditions. Their preferred basking temps are between 135-165 F/57-74 C. The True Reds are more tropical, seem to prefer higher humidity(50-60%) and even higher basking temps (150-180F). I have heard of red ackie breeders that have recorded basking temps up to 212F (100 C) - without harming their ackies. As for The air (ambient) temps for yellows - during the day warm side - 95-105F, cool side - 75-85 F. At night - about 75--85F. For reds - during the day - warm side - 100-110F, cool side - 78-85 F.

1. Would heat tape melt paint, say this because I think the ambient temp of the ackie set up is too cold around 70, so was thinking of putting heat mat on the back of the tank to warm it up originally had it on plastic tubbaware so its defiantly not crazy hot, would it be ok to place it behind a painted glass tank?
DO NOT use heat tape - or heat pads - it may harm the plastic tub - without really helping warm up the the ackies. It is best to modify the top of the tub to be able to put a basking light in for them to bask. Or for night - a night light for them keep warm at night.

. Could the light cycle be the reason why my ackie seems not eager to eat? When I get out of work it sometimes 2 hours into the night light cycle which always my ackie is sleeping. Should I push the time to have the day light on when I come home from work? Like 12pm day lights on, 12am day lights off?
While a 12 hour on/ 12 hour off - could help. The real problem could be you basking temps are too low. How ever I have found that if the basking light is on all the time - the ackies will develop their own - day/night cycle. As for temps - see above. These basking temps may seem high - but they are needed for the ackies to thrive. with these basking temps - you ackies will be very hungry little monitors.

3. Im thinking about starting to give him pinkies to help him grow faster, not sure if I have to cut them, or is the rule the same with dragons distance between the eyes or are monitors more tolerating of larger food items
pinkies and fussies are mainly treats. While they certainly well help plump up the ackies - they should not be feed more than once a week. They are mainly insectivores - so they need an insect based diet. As for prey size - the ruling that applies to beardies and most lizards - doesn't apply to ackies - since they are true monitors. And all true monitors are capable of expanding their jaws in a more snake like fashion. I have seen young ackies swallow a large cricket or pinkie with out any real difficulties. Adult ackies can eat a full grown hissing roach. or even an adult mouse with very little difficulty.
 
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shookONES

Casper... the not so friendly ghost
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Jul 12, 2005
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I think the majority of your ackie issues are temperature related. They need is HOT. I've got friends that keep ackies with basking spots 140-150* and they just sit there and bake under it. If your night time temps are low/below 70* that's sure to mess him up. I'd be on the lookout for respiratory infections if that's the case.

Look into ceramic heat emitters on Amazon. They don't emit light and do a decent job at pumping out heat. I run a 100w in my 4x2x3' Quince enclosure during the overnight hours and the enclosure stays mid to high 70s with my AC blasting.

As far as diet, variety is key. Rodents are fine, but I'm a firm believer that no single prey item should be a stable. Ackies tend to gravitate towards insects, so roachs and worms should be your go-to.
 
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Pazzoman

Piranha
MFK Member
Apr 5, 2009
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Hey Everyone, thanks for all the replies everything has been applied and seems he is doing better, too be honest think it was mainly that he had a difficult time getting to his basking spot since its new and requires him to climb on a ramp. Well tonight finally saw caught him on his basking spot (switch the timers of the lights to stay on a few hours late, bc I get out of work late every day) so he quickly feasted on everything even his first pinkie. So I think we should be alright for now, thanks everyone for all your help. Yeah his basking spot is really hot clocked some areas at over 150 degrees
 
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