uromastyx philbyi care

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crayfishguy

crayfishguy

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 26, 2010
1,861
17
68
Houston texas
i have a nine inch 2.15 ounce u.philbyi and wanted to check i was doing everything right
routine:
i turn his lights on in the morning
i feed him right after that
he basks after eating then explores/digs in his cage
he then either goes to sleep in his hide or waits to do so later

setup:
(3-4") of playsand in the bottom of his 29 gallon tank
a secure log hide that is closed on one end and half buried in the middle of the tank ( i will be getting another and putting them on opposite ends of the tank soon)
a large piece of driftwood that provides multiple levels for basking
a bowl of lentils and another for greens

surface temps:
hot spot (at the hottest 172 degrees Fahrenheit)
cold end (86 degrees Fahrenheit)

feeding:
organic springmix, lentils, prickly pear cactus, squash, and bok choy
 
172 seems a little hot. I kept my chuckwalla and my current desert iguana, both are considered to be almost identical to uros, with a hotspot of around 120-125F that is roughly the size of their torso and then a section they can fit their whole body into at around 105-112F. With a cold end hitting around 75F at its coldest. Just some stuff to think about. Everything seems okay to me. Good luck! I've always wanted one of the pretty uros but never had the cash for a sexed baby:P can't wait to see pics!


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Experiment397 said:
172 seems a little hot. I kept my chuckwalla and my current desert iguana, both are considered to be almost identical to uros, with a hotspot of around 120-125F that is roughly the size of their torso and then a section they can fit their whole body into at around 105-112F. With a cold end hitting around 75F at its coldest. Just some stuff to think about. Everything seems okay to me. Good luck! I've always wanted one of the pretty uros but never had the cash for a sexed baby:P can't wait to see pics!


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i have had him for a year. When i got him at repticon he was the only juvenile they had ( looked like a male) and he was $200 from TX reptile exchange. the temps are surface temps, the ambient temp should be lower
 
Okay maybe he's adjusted to higher temps. When I emailed the people at deer fern farms they told me to use a probe thermometer and put it next to the basking spot to get a surface temp, my hottest is 125. How big is the 172 spot? Even if a lizard has been kept a certain way for a while it doesn't mean that they are thriving. I have a leopard gecko that was kept eating potatoes with no heat except a purple led light for color for over 2 years until I bought it off the retard who thought it was boring after 2 years of practically torturing the poor thing. I would just worry about the uro having issues shedding if the heat is drying him out too much. Not criticizing you at all, im just pointing out something for the lizards well being.


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Experiment397 said:
Okay maybe he's adjusted to higher temps. When I emailed the people at deer fern farms they told me to use a probe thermometer and put it next to the basking spot to get a surface temp, my hottest is 125. How big is the 172 spot? Even if a lizard has been kept a certain way for a while it doesn't mean that they are thriving. I have a leopard gecko that was kept eating potatoes with no heat except a purple led light for color for over 2 years until I bought it off the retard who thought it was boring after 2 years of practically torturing the poor thing. I would just worry about the uro having issues shedding if the heat is drying him out too much. Not criticizing you at all, im just pointing out something for the lizards well being.


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it is small, and he doesn't use it, he uses the one a step lower on the branch, i wasnt saying that because he has been like that that he was thriving, i asked for advice.
 
kevinfleming21 said:
Might want to check those temps, but everything else seems okay. Maybe add a little more variety of seeds for him.
Click to expand...
i have been trying to find a list of good ones but i have had no luck. all the birdseed brands around here seem to have other stuff ( not good for uros)
oh and the last bit of his care
lighting: exo terra solarglow 125w and a random uvb bulb on the other side ( just for light, it is a few years old and does not still put off the uvb)
 
As far as temperature goes, it should be clear that he can position himself in various spots to achieve a wide range of temperatures, with 172 being the hottest he can get to. The animal always knows best and should be given a wide variety of options to choose for themselves. As hot as 172 is, I've seen him use it from time to time. He doesn't stay there long, but he uses it.

I know someone who offers his ackies temperatures all the way up to 200 surface temp. And they use it.. Only briefly, but they use it.
 
Ackies are very different than a uro. They need the higher temps due to a extremely high metabolism. The lfs I got to feeds their uros a grassland finch seed mix occasionally. I would def replace that UVB light. I have a exo terra D3 Arcadia bulb on my beardie and love it! If you want a flourescent t8 than you can't beat the zoo med 5.0 or 10.0 good luck. Other than a few minor things to look at it seems like that should be one happy little lizard.


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Experiment397 said:
Ackies are very different than a uro. They need the higher temps due to a extremely high metabolism. The lfs I got to feeds their uros a grassland finch seed mix occasionally. I would def replace that UVB light. I have a exo terra D3 Arcadia bulb on my beardie and love it! If you want a flourescent t8 than you can't beat the zoo med 5.0 or 10.0 good luck. Other than a few minor things to look at it seems like that should be one happy little lizard.


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i have done some research and i will be getting a reptisun 10.0 to supply the uvb light that i have found out my solarglow does not. i am keeping the solarglow on the tank, just for the heat.
 
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