UV Sterilizer

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N

NYCheken

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 29, 2014
19
0
1
Flushing, NY
So been doing a lot of reading on possibly adding a UV to my goldfish tank. It seems like every few pages in this section of the forum has a post related to UV and I did went back a few dozen pages before I decided to create my own thread seeking help. Stopped by the Lfs earlier as it carried coral life turbo twist uv setup, did some research online and seems like the turbo twist may not be as efficient for level 1? Can those of you who have a UV setup in your tanks share the make and model of your Sterilizer?

I settled on a smaller 125 gallon tank and trying to decide which brand to use and the wattage/lastly the gpp on a pump compatible to the UV. Seems like more I read, more I'm confused :(

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
image.jpg I got mine in December and some of the reviews said their bulbs burnt out quickly are were expensive to replace but mines on all the time and the bulb is still working. It really cleared the tank up which had an algae problem from too much sunlight (I don't have curtains on my windows when the weather gets nicer lol) IMO it's worth the $65
 
Thank you for the replies so far. I do about 80 percent water change almost twice a week and filtering the tank right now with fx5/ac110 and a couple sponger filters at the moment. I may add another ac110 and fluval 405 if necessary. So water clarity isn't the big issue as I also have floating plants for algae control. My main concern is really with minimizing the parasite and bacterial control as goldfish tend to be a mess. With that said, it's hard to gauge if the UV is being effective so want to hear everyone's experience with their setup.

Have anyone also tried having 2 UV in a pvp custom setup? Maybe the heated water could be an issue going through 2 sterilizer? One time cost isn't necessary the biggest issue as I rather keep the tank to having minimal casualties in the long run. Keep the comments coming guys.

Thanks again!
 
The best way and simplest is buy in tank UV like someone posted above, you don't have to deal with all the flowing rate nor adjustment to make it right...etc. Also you don't need to buy a huge power one at all, juts get reasonable one it's just process slower and still work effectively. If you keep your water quality up all the time and don't have habit adding new fish every week then you don't need UV though, it's a waste, healthy fishes will have best immunity to overcome anything.
 
Yuki Rihwa said:
The best way and simplest is buy in tank UV like someone posted above, you don't have to deal with all the flowing rate nor adjustment to make it right...etc. Also you don't need to buy a huge power one at all, juts get reasonable one it's just process slower and still work effectively. If you keep your water quality up all the time and don't have habit adding new fish every week then you don't need UV though, it's a waste, healthy fishes will have best immunity to overcome anything.
Click to expand...
Thanks! So is there particular one you use? There seem to be different feedbacks on in tank UV but I appreciate the valued input! I do add new fishes to the show tank here and there. Got 2 black moor yesterday at Lfs (Lfs tank is infested with ich but took a chance on them as I have them separated now) and got 2 more ranchu on transit from breeder today.
 
Most small (low wattage) sterilizers are effective on bacteria, some viruses, and algae. Ich and other more complicated protozoans are harder to kill, and need stronger wattage UV, with enough detention time in the sterilizer to become compromised. This then creates its own problem, because you need a slow enough flow past the UV light to kill, but a slow flow will not send enough of the parasites through the unit fast enough to not allow fish to become infected.
A quarantine tank is the only real solution to not passing vectors from fish to fish.
 
duanes said:
Most small (low wattage) sterilizers are effective on bacteria, some viruses, and algae. Ich and other more complicated protozoans are harder to kill, and need stronger wattage UV, with enough detention time in the sterilizer to become compromised. This then creates its own problem, because you need a slow enough flow past the UV light to kill, but a slow flow will not send enough of the parasites through the unit fast enough to not allow fish to become infected.
A quarantine tank is the only real solution to not passing vectors from fish to fish.
Click to expand...
Yep. I will still use quarantine tanks for newer fishes but don't want to wait 2-4 weeks to introduce them (was thinking maybe a week to monitor the fish etc). Question thought, have anyone tried to connect 2 sterilizers In a setup so it goes through the Uv twice or is that really an overkill?
 
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