Water Changes Create Stability

[duanes]

I get the impression that many people think lots of water changes create" instability", when just the opposite is true.
If you do a water change with (for example) pH 7.5 tap water and wait a week, or 2 in between (or a month) water changes (depending on tank size and stocking level)
that pH can drop to 6.5 or even 6, and nitrate can rise from 5 ppm directly after the water change, to 20ppm a week later.
Is that stability?
If moderate water changes are performed every other day or every 3rd day, it stands to reason that pH will not drop as far, nitrate will not climb as high, because those parameters will more closely match the tap water parameters.
Isn't that stability?

A stability experiment we can all do, is to measure pH, and nitrate right after a water change, then just before our next normally scheduled water change, test those parameters again.
This is how I developed my current routine.
Not by some, generic aqua-advisor, or YouTuber's platitude, that has little to do with the reality of my situation.
But by what applies to my stocking level, my tap water type, and my goal for the health of my fish.
My tap water has a pH of 8.2, and non-detectable nitrate.
Where I catch my fish, pH is 8.2 and nitrate is also nondetectable. So this is the goal I maintain for my tanks.

Above are the nitrate and pH tests in a river where I catch my fish.
Below the same type tests done on my tank

 

[esoxlucius]

A stability experiment we can all do, is to measure pH, and nitrate right after a water change, then just before our next normally scheduled water change, test those parameters again.

Your approach is one we should all follow to provide a top quality living environment for our fish, no doubting that.

However, I wager that very very few hobbyists know their systems as intimately as you do, or understand the balance involved between stocking levels and an adequate water change schedule to try and achieve what you do.

Hell, most hobbyists probably struggle to fill their tanks up with the desired temperature of water after a water change, never mind keeping ph and nitrate levels constantly in the "Goldilocks" zone before and after said water changes.

I think there are way too many variables involved for the casual hobbyist to get their heads round. But yes, it is certainly achievable for those striving to be better hobbyists.

 

[duanes]

, most hobbyists probably struggle to fill their tanks up with the desired temperature of water after a water change, never mind keeping ph and nitrate levels constantly in the "Goldilocks" zone before and after said water changes.
I think there are way too many variables involved for the casual hobbyist to get their heads round. But yes, it is certainly achievable for those striving to be better hobbyists.

You hit the nail on the head.
This is why I'm such a repetitious old crab in my anal blathering, there is so much mediocre, and downright erroneous info, the half truths and unscientific beliefs out there amaze me as a retired chemist/microbiologist, and 60 year fish keeper.
I am amazed that any fish survive the gauntlet of human abuse at all.

 

[dogofwar]

When we moved about 5 years ago and built my long-term fishroom in my detached garage, one of my prime design criteria was ensuring that I could make it easy to maintain next-to-zero nitrogenous waste in all of my tanks.

Long story short, all of my tanks are on a simple drip system that allows me to semi-automatically (I have to flip on a timer) change as much water as I'd like on each group of tanks as often as I want. I usually run each of the zones each evening for at least 15 minutes. And several times on weekends, when I have more time. Dirty water leaves the garage and waters my lawn and/or raised beds.

And because the room has skylights and large windows, I am able to grow both terrestrial and immersed plants in most tanks (to consume any ammonia/nitrates that make it through drip-system dilution).

 

[FINWIN]

In 2019 when I joined MFK it was my first experience with large fish and undesrtanding their requirements. Despite taking some refresher courses on water chemistry, filtration etc, I made a couple of key mistakes. One, not knowing about "ph crash". I had an issue in one of my parrot tanks where once a month the fish would go pale, sit at the bottom and struggle to breathe. WC schedule was ok BUT didn't think to check for gunk at the bottom of the filter or muck underneath the cave. Normal PH in DC is 7.6 - 8 (higher during summer). The crash dropped ph to 6.1! It was a testament to the toughness of my parrot she didn't roll over! Lesson learned. Haven't had an issue since. Adjusted the decor to reduce places for stuff to accumulate.

One time I tossed baking soda in until I could change the water and she immediately responded.

 

[LBDave]

duanes has probably shaped how I care for my fish more than anyone at MFK. At least as far as water changes, filter cleaning and substrate cleaning.