Water Changes to Drop Ammonia

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bjbass

Candiru
MFK Member
Apr 10, 2010
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What is the best method to use water changes to drop your ammonia level? Large changes a day apart? Smaller (~30%) every day?

Would back to back water changes drop it? Say do a 50% water change to get .50ppm to .25. Then immediately do another 50% after filling to get it to 0? Does this strategy work? I can't seem to get my Ammonia down past .25 unless this API liquid freshwater test kit is playing tricks on my eyes. I always seem to seen green no matter what.
 
Why do you even have ammonia? Is this an established tank? If so, it should be 0. If you have ammonia, you need to figure out the problem. You're either underfiltered, not completely cycled, or you wiped out your bacteria for some reason.

Or, it could be the test kit. API kits are far from perfect. It could be old, or even a dud. If you really do have ammonia, I'd do two 50% water changes per day.
 
Add some bio to the tank, what r u running for filtration?

This tank has been running for a year now, but I have yet to get the ammonia to stay at zero and I do at least one 50% water change per week. I had lot of rocks on the bottom and I took them out because I noticed that they were collecting fish waste that I was not getting then with the gravel vac. I do have sand (3M color quartz) and I try to use a stick and stir it up to get everything out.

I have a Marineland Model 4 sump with my 210 with dual overflows. There are two filter tray stacks and two bio wheels. I have been adding pond stability to get some more bio in there, but I haven't been adding it daily. I do wash my filter trays with tap water which I know some people say not to, but the bio should really be in the bio wheels? That and I only do this about every 6 weeks.

I thought maybe there must be some kind of a problem that I keep having this problem. Nitrite is always zero and my Nitrate fluctuates between 5 and 20 ppm. I think after water changes it goes down to about 5, but I do massive water changes (over 50%) to try and get the ammonia down.

I also have two Marineland Maxi Jet I think 4500 pumps and they are the second fastest pump they sell. I am pumping quite a bit of water.

I have never replaced the fine blue filter media pieces because they seem to clean really well in my sink and turn from the brown to blue again, but I have replaced the coarse filter a few times.

I also use two active carbon pillows to get the Massivore Delight smell out of my water when I feed and also to make the water clearer.

I did just buy a new API kit... so let me try that now and see if it matches my old one.
 
I forgot to add that I use Seachem Prime to dechlor before filling. I dose the entire tank volume before I turn the water on.
 
do you have chloramines in your tap? I always do small waterchanges every day when I'm cycling

Well I already went through the cycling process last summer. I went through having a Nitrite spike and the Nitrates built up, but my ammonia never really stayed at zero. Always .25-.5.

How can I find out if I do? I use city water (not really city I guess. I live in a semi small college town) and it seems like it does, but once again I dechlor the entire volume tank dosage before adding water after a water change.
 
Do you test your water before or after the water change? API ammonia test is inaccurate after the use of prime for 48 hours.

I know someone who had a similar problem and he dosed stability and it worked within a week or less.
 
Do you test your water before or after the water change? API ammonia test is inaccurate after the use of prime for 48 hours.

I know someone who had a similar problem and he dosed stability and it worked within a week or less.

Awesome. Did he dose with stability daily? Did he perform water changes?

I always test the water before a water change and usually about an hour after. I guess that might be some of the problem. I am getting a false read, but definitely within the next few days I test for ammonia again. Should I just keep using the Seachem Pond Stability?
 
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