So I was wondering what you all like to keep a couple of your parameters at for best coral growth, color etc. Mainly referring to Carbonate Hardness and Calcium. Lots of places have parameters listed for different species and what not but I wanted to hear what some of you had to say.
Water parameters
- Thread starter johnson5585
- Start date
Alot of coloration has to do with your light parameters and the distance from your coral to your light.
as far as parameters go my tanks usually sit around:
ph 8.1-8.3
alkalinity 10-12 dkh
calcium 560ppm (its a little high i expect it to slowly start down as coral growth increases)
phosphates < .25ppm
salinity 1.024
magnesium 1400 ish
and ofcourse the standard tests
amonia 0
nitrates 20ppm or less
nitrites 0
as far as parameters go my tanks usually sit around:
ph 8.1-8.3
alkalinity 10-12 dkh
calcium 560ppm (its a little high i expect it to slowly start down as coral growth increases)
phosphates < .25ppm
salinity 1.024
magnesium 1400 ish
and ofcourse the standard tests
amonia 0
nitrates 20ppm or less
nitrites 0
PH 8.1 to 8.3
Temperature 78° F to 84° F - average reef temperature tends to be 81° F
Alkalinity 8 to 11 dKH -or- 2.86 to 3.89 meq/L
Calcium 390 to 450 ppm
Magnesium 1350 - 1400 ppm (or 3x Calcium levels)
Phosphate .03 ppm - leading cause of nuisance algae in your tank:
Ammonia 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrite 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrate 10 ppm or less - huge water changes bring down nitrates:
Best parameter's to follow.
mr.reef24
Temperature 78° F to 84° F - average reef temperature tends to be 81° F
Alkalinity 8 to 11 dKH -or- 2.86 to 3.89 meq/L
Calcium 390 to 450 ppm
Magnesium 1350 - 1400 ppm (or 3x Calcium levels)
Phosphate .03 ppm - leading cause of nuisance algae in your tank:
Ammonia 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrite 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrate 10 ppm or less - huge water changes bring down nitrates:
Best parameter's to follow.
mr.reef24
Seems like I am on the right track. My Calcium is a bit high but everything else seems good. I picked up a new test kit to get all my other readings I was not getting before. Only one I seem to be missing is the magnesium level.
Temp. 80 degrees
Salinity 1.024
PH-8.3
Alkalinity 10 dkh
Calcium 500
Phosphate 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Magnesium ?????? (Is this something I should worry about right away and get a test kit soon?)
Temp. 80 degrees
Salinity 1.024
PH-8.3
Alkalinity 10 dkh
Calcium 500
Phosphate 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Magnesium ?????? (Is this something I should worry about right away and get a test kit soon?)
the magnesium is not a huge deal right off the bat, more than likely if your calcium and alkalinity are in check, the magnesium is close to what it should be. if you start to have bryopsis issues, like i do, then raising your mag with kent tech-m will warrant a closer watch on it.
Well the calcium supplement I use is Sea Chem Reef Complete. It adds magnesium and strontium while adding the calcium. I figure if the Calcium is correct then the magnesium should be correct as well. The only place I have any algae problems is in my refugium due to the lighting. But I am getting that better since I have changed the lighting schedule. I do need to work on my flow in the tank a little those as there is some cyano in the lower movement areas. Since my parameters are good I am assuming the only thing causing the cyano is the lack of water movement. I have 4 powerheads. One Koralia 2 which is rated for 600 GPH, one Maxi Jet 600 160 GPH, Once modded Maxi 600 puts out almost 2x the Koralia now and a penguin 1140 rate for 300 GPH.
So I have about a 2000 GPH flow with just the powerheads.
Cyano is oly on the sand, and if I redirect the powerheads towards the sand more it blows the sand too much. I am going to mod the other maxi jet. Any other suggestions on removing the cyano.
So I have about a 2000 GPH flow with just the powerheads.
Cyano is oly on the sand, and if I redirect the powerheads towards the sand more it blows the sand too much. I am going to mod the other maxi jet. Any other suggestions on removing the cyano.
I keep my parameters the same as you guys although my Ca usually tests 420ppm. As for the cyano, in my tank and at the store I manage I recommend treating the tank with erythromycin packets (API brand) but dose 1 pk per 20 gals instead of the recommended dose. If you dose more than two consecutive days it can send your levels into a litle bit of a cycle but I have used it myself, in the store and recommended it to numerous customers and nobodys had a problem or complaint.
Toucan;3286845; said:
Erythromycin from API is a nice product but from experience through testing and side project's I noticed it is stressful to mostly all inverts you can ride cyno by having a good clean-up crew, good flow to keep detritus suspended to be easily removed by your filtration, and, monitoring your feeding regiment I only use unnatural product's like the packet's as a Final Last Ditch effort but most cyno can be rid of with good aquarium husbandry and if you do a water change siphon it out if it is only here and there on your sand.
mr.reef24
It is a red color. Coats the sand in the lower flow areas. I vacuum it up during water changes and it seems to come back in the same spots on the sand.