I got my tank and Ill be buying my rays within the next month. I just dont wanna spend so much money only to have my rays die on me. can someone explain to me what the water conditions for these guys need to be and how i can go about in getting the right water conditions for these stingrays?
water
- Thread starter goraiders02
- Start date
First things first,
Put some water in your aquarium... you need to let it sit for an entire month this will make the tank good and stuff
dont do to many water changes it takes out all the bacteria
fish only grow to the size of the home so start off with really small rays, like teacups
feed them lots of gold fish in them they have this good thiamisane stuff great for rays
OI!!! I almost forgot.. READ THE STICKIES.
Put some water in your aquarium... you need to let it sit for an entire month this will make the tank good and stuff
dont do to many water changes it takes out all the bacteria
fish only grow to the size of the home so start off with really small rays, like teacups
feed them lots of gold fish in them they have this good thiamisane stuff great for rays
OI!!! I almost forgot.. READ THE STICKIES.
no need to be rude miles, hes just trying to learn. best thing to do before you get your rays is to get your tank cycled, then let ir run for atleast another 6 months after its cycled with fish in it. That way you will know your tank is very well established, which will give you less of a chance an amonia spike when you add larger fish to the tank like rays.
StinkRay;2032959; said:
Rude?
Trying to Learn!?
Maybe if he would take the good advice already provided to him and -READ ON HIS OWN-, then I wouldn't half to be subliminally flaming his grossly undercapacitated ability to comprehend basic concepts.
For Example, here he is in his very first post, before reading a single amount of information about stingrays.. stating how he will begin to breed them, and essentially 'undercut' any local competition. After people repeatedly and kindly let him know he is unintelligent, it might be time to get a little more aggressive, because he obviously doesn't get it.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160071
Here is Nic, telling him to get some books and read the stickies
Nic;2025173; said:
..and NOW he wants to be 'gifted the information without using the search function or any basic reasoning or comprehension skills' on how to keep the 'water right' for these stingrays..
So either this guy is a Troll.. or he simply is so lazy that he will not take the time to read and research on his own, thus his stingrays will die and he will say 'they are so sensitive and hard to keep', and the circle of ignorance continues.
goraiders02 - If you took the time to read this (which obviously you didn't because it was over 2 sentences), then you will realize that you need to ... OI!! READ THE STICKIES and GET A FRICKIN BOOK.. might give GOOGLE a shot too..
Incase you didn't know what a 'STICKY' is it is a post that is 'STUCK' to the top of the forum sub-section because of its incredibly VALUABLE and MUST-READ type of information .. such as - HOW DO I KEEP MY WATER GOOD FOR THESE RAYS..
There are 2 Stingray Books on this awesome Website
http://www.h2ocustomaquatics.com/information.htm
He is the 1 and only commercial breeder of Stingrays in the USA.
You should check him out, maybe you will stop with your
Good luck reading don't hurt yourself..
Easy tiger! Ohhh I meant Liger...
We were all n00bs once and perhaps he hasn't found the search function yet? He after all just joined with only 5 posts. Lets give him the benefit of the doubt and welcome him to the ray world nicely....
We were all n00bs once and perhaps he hasn't found the search function yet? He after all just joined with only 5 posts. Lets give him the benefit of the doubt and welcome him to the ray world nicely....
Well I stated pretty clearly why I said what I said..
The 'ray community' tried to 'help him nicely' with his 1st post, and he acted like a pompous child and now is asking very broad ranged questions that were answered in the REFERENCES already pointed out to him.. of course he ignored them.
I ->HATE<- it when people ignore good advice and continue to ask dumb questions that have already been answered..
People like this, make people like Nic, quit MFK.. and I DONT BLAME HIM.
1st post: Asks about Freshwater Stingray Breeding competition.. "ill go cheaper"
2nd post: Ask how to KEEP THE RAYS ALIVE?
_W_T_F_
The 'ray community' tried to 'help him nicely' with his 1st post, and he acted like a pompous child and now is asking very broad ranged questions that were answered in the REFERENCES already pointed out to him.. of course he ignored them.
I ->HATE<- it when people ignore good advice and continue to ask dumb questions that have already been answered..
People like this, make people like Nic, quit MFK.. and I DONT BLAME HIM.
1st post: Asks about Freshwater Stingray Breeding competition.. "ill go cheaper"
2nd post: Ask how to KEEP THE RAYS ALIVE?
_W_T_F_
GORAIDERS02 _ HERE ARE ALL THE ANSWERS FOR YOU PLEASE USE YOUR EYES TO READ THIS
LET ME KNOW IF YOU WANT ME TO READ IT OUT LOUD FOR A YOUTUBE VIDEO
# Water Quality Freshwater Stingray are sensitive to water parameters.
* Ammonia
Ammonia is incredibly lethal to all fish. Ammonia is more toxic the higher the pH. Stingrays produce a massive amount of ammonia due to their osmoregulatory system that has evolved to sustain life in completely freshwater. They have repressed rectal glands, a tool for managing salts in osmosis, but this also means they can not retrain urea and ammonia like most Saltwater fish. These internal functions are what make FW stingrays produce more ammonia than their body could seemingly produce, even at juvenile sizes. Most freshwater fish have the ability to retain urea within the plasma of their blood, but due to a FW stingrays unique osmoregulatory system they no longer have this ability. The ability to retain urea within plasma serves as a detoxification tool for environmental ammonia, thus making Stingrays more susceptible to ammonia poisoning. This is where dilution and water volume become very important.
* Nitrite
Nitrite poisoning is also very lethal to all fish. Small amounts of aquarium salt will have neutralize the effects of nitrite poisoning. If you have traces of nitrites in your tank, it is a sign that you do not have enough nitrifying bacteria to handle the amount of ammonia being released into the tank. Please do thorough amounts of research on the nitrogen cycle, nitrosomas, nitrobacter, and how to properly prepare your biological media for the introduction of FW stingrays into your tank.
* Nitrate
Nitrate, being the end product of the nitrogen cycle, is the least harmful waste substance to freshwater aquaria. At higher concentrations however, they can irritate sensitive fish, especially FW Stingrays. Large, frequent water changes are a must when keeping stingrays, as their massive ammonia production will cause rapid increase in Nitrate. The only way to combat this is by water changes, and dilution through larger volumes of water.
* pH
Many people will tell you that stingrays are pH sensitive. I would have to disagree. Although many animals will obtain negative side effects longterm from being kept out of their natural pH range. Stingrays are very adaptable as they have shown by migrating into freshwater in the short span of 67 million years and modifying their entire internal osmosis process to accommodate this migration. I have seen rays kept in a pH ranging from 5.0 to 8.0. I have 'squirt and dump' acclimated wild stingrays from South American water straight into 7.8ph with no negative side effects. Some stingray species are more sensitive than others (tigers, flowers) and it helps if a slow acclimation process is in place. Try to match the pH of the water source in which you are purchasing the stingray from. Have your tank attempt to mirror water parameters, and then slowly change your pH through small frequent water changes over a few weeks to months period. It is best that your tanks pH matches that of your tap water, making large frequent water changes less stressful, and opening up the ability to do large emergency water changes of 70% or more.
LET ME KNOW IF YOU WANT ME TO READ IT OUT LOUD FOR A YOUTUBE VIDEO
# Water Quality Freshwater Stingray are sensitive to water parameters.
* Ammonia
Ammonia is incredibly lethal to all fish. Ammonia is more toxic the higher the pH. Stingrays produce a massive amount of ammonia due to their osmoregulatory system that has evolved to sustain life in completely freshwater. They have repressed rectal glands, a tool for managing salts in osmosis, but this also means they can not retrain urea and ammonia like most Saltwater fish. These internal functions are what make FW stingrays produce more ammonia than their body could seemingly produce, even at juvenile sizes. Most freshwater fish have the ability to retain urea within the plasma of their blood, but due to a FW stingrays unique osmoregulatory system they no longer have this ability. The ability to retain urea within plasma serves as a detoxification tool for environmental ammonia, thus making Stingrays more susceptible to ammonia poisoning. This is where dilution and water volume become very important.
* Nitrite
Nitrite poisoning is also very lethal to all fish. Small amounts of aquarium salt will have neutralize the effects of nitrite poisoning. If you have traces of nitrites in your tank, it is a sign that you do not have enough nitrifying bacteria to handle the amount of ammonia being released into the tank. Please do thorough amounts of research on the nitrogen cycle, nitrosomas, nitrobacter, and how to properly prepare your biological media for the introduction of FW stingrays into your tank.
* Nitrate
Nitrate, being the end product of the nitrogen cycle, is the least harmful waste substance to freshwater aquaria. At higher concentrations however, they can irritate sensitive fish, especially FW Stingrays. Large, frequent water changes are a must when keeping stingrays, as their massive ammonia production will cause rapid increase in Nitrate. The only way to combat this is by water changes, and dilution through larger volumes of water.
* pH
Many people will tell you that stingrays are pH sensitive. I would have to disagree. Although many animals will obtain negative side effects longterm from being kept out of their natural pH range. Stingrays are very adaptable as they have shown by migrating into freshwater in the short span of 67 million years and modifying their entire internal osmosis process to accommodate this migration. I have seen rays kept in a pH ranging from 5.0 to 8.0. I have 'squirt and dump' acclimated wild stingrays from South American water straight into 7.8ph with no negative side effects. Some stingray species are more sensitive than others (tigers, flowers) and it helps if a slow acclimation process is in place. Try to match the pH of the water source in which you are purchasing the stingray from. Have your tank attempt to mirror water parameters, and then slowly change your pH through small frequent water changes over a few weeks to months period. It is best that your tanks pH matches that of your tap water, making large frequent water changes less stressful, and opening up the ability to do large emergency water changes of 70% or more.
Im a bundle OF HELP
HERE READ THIS TOO BUDDY
INCASE YOU MISSED IT THE FIRST 10 TIMES
Rays: 12 Tips for prospective owners (by bUrPz)
1. Research
Don't just rush out and buy a stingray on impulse. Find as much information that you can regarding the care of stingrays. A book that is highly recommended by all stingray enthusiasts and often referred to as the Stingray Bible is "Freshwater Stingrays from South America" a book by Dr. Richard Ross published by Aqualog. This book contains all the information that you will require to properly care for your ray. Including information regarding the danger that they present because of the venomous sting they carry on their tail.
2. Commitment
Ensure that you have the time/
commitment that these demanding
fish require. If cared for correctly
they may live for up to 20 years and
most of them grow to over 18" diameter.
3. Tank setup
Buy/setup the correct size of aquarium. A minimum tank size for even small Teacup sized rays would ideally be 75 gallons. The larger the tank the happier the ray. Substrate is a matter of preference either bare bottom or sand (non silica) or smooth fine gravel. Lighting is also a matter of preference; a single florescent tube is more than adequate. One must have item though is a heater guard because rays burn very easily. Tank decorations/ornaments are also optional although any item that is to be included in the tank must be smooth & free from any sharp edges that may damage them.
4. Filtration
Ensure that you provide the correct filtration. Always buy a filter unit that has a capacity that is far greater than the tank it is to be used with. Rays eat a lot and so produce a large amount of waste. Because of the amount of waste rays produce it is vital that your aquarium is fully cycled. Also use a filter/power head that will provide a good flow rate through the aquarium. Rays enjoy living in fast moving well-aerated water.
5. Water quality
A basic guide to the water quality that most rays require is as follows: Newly acquired rays require a pH range between 6.5 - 7.0, but once acclimated most rays can survive within a pH range of 6.0 - 8.5. The main thing is to ensure that the pH stays at a constant level. Rays are very intolerant of fluctuating pH levels. Ammonia - 0 ppm, Nitrite - 0 ppm, Nitrate 5 - 10 ppm. In order to keep the water parameters at these desired levels large weekly/bi-weekly water changes must be carried out religiously. Temperature - 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
6. Feeding
Rays will readily eat a wide variety of foods once acclimated. Suitable foods are as follows: Blood/black worms both live & frozen, Live Earthworms Frozen Krill, Live Ghost/River shrimp, Whitebait, Raw Prawns, Pieces of fresh cut fish, Cockles/Mussels & Live Feeder fish. Live bloodworms & Earthworms are a good starter food for a newly acquired ray.
7. Tank mates
As a general rule any fish that will fit into a ray's mouth will be eaten. Rays are fragile sensitive fish so you must choose any tank mates carefully to avoid adding an aggressive fish that my kill or upset your ray. Newly acquired rays are best kept alone until they adjust to their new surroundings & begin to eat & gain weight.
8. Choosing the correct type of ray.
The cheaper more commonly seen rays generally referred to, as Teacup rays are unfortunately not really suitable for the novice ray keeper. Although it is wise not to purchase any ray that is under 6? diameter. Small rays are very delicate & unless you have experience in their husbandry they are very difficult to keep alive. The rays generally referred to, as Teacups are usually either Potamotrygon Histrix or Reticulata. Although they are both very attractive rays & normally available at very affordable prices they are very difficult to keep. For a first ray I would recommend a Potamotrygon Motoro or Leopoldi. Both of these rays are very hardy & relatively easy to care for. They both cost more than you would pay for a Teacup but it will be money well spent because they are far more tolerant of water parameters etc.
9. Buying a ray
Never buy a ray that will not eat. A healthy Stingray will never refuse food. Ask the supplier to let you see the ray feed. A good LFS/Supplier should always be prepared to do this. Look for signs that the ray is healthy: A healthy ray should always be active & have a nice fat tail with no sign of the protruding pelvic bones showing (2 small triangular shaped bones, one either side of the tail at its base where it meets the disc) or a hollow dent in its forehead.
10. Acclimatizing your new ray
Once you have bought your new ray & hurried home don’t rush and pop it into its new home like you would with a regular fish say after you have floated the bag in the tank for 15 minutes. Rays are very sensitive to changes in water chemistry. Because of this it is essential that you slowly adjust the water that the ray came in to suit the water in your tank. The easiest way is to first remove about 1/3 of the water out of the bag the ray is in & then connect an airline to your existing aquarium to use as a siphon & use a clamp to reduce the water flow to a steady drip. Then slowly add the existing tank water into the bag. Once you have replaced slightly more water in the bag than you have taken out you are ready to put the ray into its new home. Also leave the lights off for the first few days to allow the ray to adjust to its new surroundings.
11. Also do not add medication/chemicals unnecessarily.
if you must use salt, ensure it's fully disolved before pouring it to your aquarium. Adding salt directly may burn your ray disc and can be proven fatal.
12. Do not buy converted ray
(meaning those converted from seawater to freshwater).
HERE READ THIS TOO BUDDY
INCASE YOU MISSED IT THE FIRST 10 TIMES
Rays: 12 Tips for prospective owners (by bUrPz)
1. Research
Don't just rush out and buy a stingray on impulse. Find as much information that you can regarding the care of stingrays. A book that is highly recommended by all stingray enthusiasts and often referred to as the Stingray Bible is "Freshwater Stingrays from South America" a book by Dr. Richard Ross published by Aqualog. This book contains all the information that you will require to properly care for your ray. Including information regarding the danger that they present because of the venomous sting they carry on their tail.
2. Commitment
Ensure that you have the time/
commitment that these demanding
fish require. If cared for correctly
they may live for up to 20 years and
most of them grow to over 18" diameter.
3. Tank setup
Buy/setup the correct size of aquarium. A minimum tank size for even small Teacup sized rays would ideally be 75 gallons. The larger the tank the happier the ray. Substrate is a matter of preference either bare bottom or sand (non silica) or smooth fine gravel. Lighting is also a matter of preference; a single florescent tube is more than adequate. One must have item though is a heater guard because rays burn very easily. Tank decorations/ornaments are also optional although any item that is to be included in the tank must be smooth & free from any sharp edges that may damage them.
4. Filtration
Ensure that you provide the correct filtration. Always buy a filter unit that has a capacity that is far greater than the tank it is to be used with. Rays eat a lot and so produce a large amount of waste. Because of the amount of waste rays produce it is vital that your aquarium is fully cycled. Also use a filter/power head that will provide a good flow rate through the aquarium. Rays enjoy living in fast moving well-aerated water.
5. Water quality
A basic guide to the water quality that most rays require is as follows: Newly acquired rays require a pH range between 6.5 - 7.0, but once acclimated most rays can survive within a pH range of 6.0 - 8.5. The main thing is to ensure that the pH stays at a constant level. Rays are very intolerant of fluctuating pH levels. Ammonia - 0 ppm, Nitrite - 0 ppm, Nitrate 5 - 10 ppm. In order to keep the water parameters at these desired levels large weekly/bi-weekly water changes must be carried out religiously. Temperature - 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
6. Feeding
Rays will readily eat a wide variety of foods once acclimated. Suitable foods are as follows: Blood/black worms both live & frozen, Live Earthworms Frozen Krill, Live Ghost/River shrimp, Whitebait, Raw Prawns, Pieces of fresh cut fish, Cockles/Mussels & Live Feeder fish. Live bloodworms & Earthworms are a good starter food for a newly acquired ray.
7. Tank mates
As a general rule any fish that will fit into a ray's mouth will be eaten. Rays are fragile sensitive fish so you must choose any tank mates carefully to avoid adding an aggressive fish that my kill or upset your ray. Newly acquired rays are best kept alone until they adjust to their new surroundings & begin to eat & gain weight.
8. Choosing the correct type of ray.
The cheaper more commonly seen rays generally referred to, as Teacup rays are unfortunately not really suitable for the novice ray keeper. Although it is wise not to purchase any ray that is under 6? diameter. Small rays are very delicate & unless you have experience in their husbandry they are very difficult to keep alive. The rays generally referred to, as Teacups are usually either Potamotrygon Histrix or Reticulata. Although they are both very attractive rays & normally available at very affordable prices they are very difficult to keep. For a first ray I would recommend a Potamotrygon Motoro or Leopoldi. Both of these rays are very hardy & relatively easy to care for. They both cost more than you would pay for a Teacup but it will be money well spent because they are far more tolerant of water parameters etc.
9. Buying a ray
Never buy a ray that will not eat. A healthy Stingray will never refuse food. Ask the supplier to let you see the ray feed. A good LFS/Supplier should always be prepared to do this. Look for signs that the ray is healthy: A healthy ray should always be active & have a nice fat tail with no sign of the protruding pelvic bones showing (2 small triangular shaped bones, one either side of the tail at its base where it meets the disc) or a hollow dent in its forehead.
10. Acclimatizing your new ray
Once you have bought your new ray & hurried home don’t rush and pop it into its new home like you would with a regular fish say after you have floated the bag in the tank for 15 minutes. Rays are very sensitive to changes in water chemistry. Because of this it is essential that you slowly adjust the water that the ray came in to suit the water in your tank. The easiest way is to first remove about 1/3 of the water out of the bag the ray is in & then connect an airline to your existing aquarium to use as a siphon & use a clamp to reduce the water flow to a steady drip. Then slowly add the existing tank water into the bag. Once you have replaced slightly more water in the bag than you have taken out you are ready to put the ray into its new home. Also leave the lights off for the first few days to allow the ray to adjust to its new surroundings.
11. Also do not add medication/chemicals unnecessarily.
if you must use salt, ensure it's fully disolved before pouring it to your aquarium. Adding salt directly may burn your ray disc and can be proven fatal.
12. Do not buy converted ray
(meaning those converted from seawater to freshwater).