Wet/Dry for Saltwater..... Nitrate Factory?

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creepyoldguy

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 27, 2010
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Trying to get the general consensus on this. How many of you use a w/d? Is submerged media (whether it be liverock or other) better?

Heres my setup

75g tank w approx 50-60lbs maybe more, of liverock. I have a HOB aqua c remora protein skimmer, a wet/dry that fits in the 10g sump (which I want to replace w a 20h so I can hide the protein skimmer). It is lightly stocked and hopefully will be a reef tank when I can afford a good light and gain more knowledge in the salt world.

There is no doubt in my mind that the liverock I have currently have can support the fish and future corals with or without a w/d or any other type of submerged media in my sump, its just the fact that I already have it, and extra media never hurts, unless its causing higher nitrates.
 
lsgraulau said:
The wet dry might cause too much evaporation for a saltwater tank.
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creepyoldguy said:
How would the water evaporate.faster w a salt tank than a fresh.tank ?
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The problem with evaporation is saltwater aquariums vs. freshwater aquariums is that you're salt levels get thrown out of whack when water evaporates thereby potentially killing off you livestock among other things.
 
Wiggles92 said:
The problem with evaporation is saltwater aquariums vs. freshwater aquariums is that you're salt levels get thrown out of whack when water evaporates thereby potentially killing off you livestock among other things.
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That is true, the water evaporates and salt doesn't so if you let it go the salinity and gravity will rise. I have a sump and an open top tank, the evaporation from a w/d is the least of my concerns and if i can't top off ny sump then I shouldn't be keeping fish.

Anyways, can someone give me some info on original question
 
creepyoldguy said:
That is true, the water evaporates and salt doesn't so if you let it go the salinity and gravity will rise. I have a sump and an open top tank, the evaporation from a w/d is the least of my concerns and if i can't top off ny sump then I shouldn't be keeping fish.

Anyways, can someone give me some info on original question
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It should be fine depending on the bio media that you use since some tend to perform better in freshwater than in saltwater.
 
The Bio-ball wet/dry systems are to help create an 02 rich enviorment for Ammonia and Nirtite eating bacterial colonies expelling Nitrate, not a bad system for Fish Only, but not good for reefs as fish can handle higher nitrate readings than most inverts and alot of times high nitrates can walk hand-in hand with higher Phosphate readings. These higher PO4 and N03 levels prohibit corals ability to process calcium. Almost all, if not all media has the potential to be a Nitrate bomb if they are not cleaned or changed regularly. Prefilter pads, sponge blocks, and cloth bags should be rinsed off weekly. Carbon and other pellitized media needs to be changed according to it's exporation piont.

I use submerged Liverock in sump. The LR can hold de-nitrifying bacterial colonies along with micro and macro colonies to help convert Nitrate to Nitrogen gas. Your Liverock is your main water filter. The rest are pretty much "A" specific. The skimmer will help remove excess dissolved protiens and the cyclone/air injected skimmers increase 02. Water movement within the tank should be powerheads facing each other this helps circulate the 02, eliminate dead spots, and help hold the corals food in suspension. Depending on your tanks specific needs - carbon bags, calcium reactors, PO4 reactors, PO4 bags, biocarbonate dosing or reactors , etc., etc. can be very useful keeping the water parameters in check. Doing 50% w/c's weekly can be quite expensive and harmful as saltwater life can be more sensetive towards swings in Temp, PH, KH, and Salinity that are associated with large volume water changes.

Not all corals need high intesity lighting as not all corals are photo-feeders (produce their own food source) or need high bands that help process calcium - however Good Bulbs (less than 1 year old) should be taken into consideration as florecents for example loose intesity with time. Some types of nuisence algaes and diatoms flourish in deminished intensity enviorments esp. in new set ups. Getting to know the differences between stoney, soft, and deep water corals will help with placement, lighting fixtures, and media types nessassary for their health and along with a reefwater test kit, basically govern what you need to buy, add, or remove.
 
Otherone has saved the day.

That being said...in most aquaria you really dont need more biofiltration that you have. I have zero biofiltration out of my tank, siphon my sand once a week till it runs clear down to the bottom, and dose vodka (IE more bacteria in tank than most tanks).

My nitrates are 0 and its all being done on DT LR.

My .02
 
Your hilarious Fleshy - personally I think it was your Dr. Frankenstien stuff that came to the rescue. You saved me a ton of money in add-on media thru your Vodka dosing example.

My system is raw - 180 gal Tank, 6 powerheads, sump, skimmer + mag drive w/ aerator nossel, external main pump, 160lbs LR in tank, 20 lbs LR trickle down in sump and a UV I've never used. I've been dosing Vodka daily for over 2 months - No3 20ppm, Po4 1ppm and dropping. Zero lost fish or corals to disease but I have lost 4 softies to fish and nudibranches. Zero obnxious algae outbreaks and a not so bad diatom outbreak after the begining cycle. We currently have 11 fish, 4 shrimp, 2 conchs, a Cucumber, 50+ in the clean up crew and the tank is fed wet and powder coral food at the max rate daily. Not too shaby for 7 months.

I do understand tho this method is not for everyone, there are more than one ways to achieve the same goal - do what you feel comfortable with.
 
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