What is wrong here?

[aaron7353]

I have recently added a large amount of plants to my 125 and I'm establishing it as I go along. By that I mean that I am very soon going to upgrade lighting and purchase dry ferts. I'm currently dosing seachem flourish just to supplement something while I wait on the dry ferts. My problem is that my jungle val and saggitaria chilensis are looking bad. They aren't melting, but they are certainly deteriorating. I would like to know what the problem is. Nutrient deficiency? Not enough light? Any suggestions? I currently have a single tube T8 fixture that spans the tank and a 4' dual T8 fixture over the plants with higher light demands. The 4' has a daylight bulb and an actinic bulb for better fish color.

 

[xxUnRaTeDxxRkOxx]

Well first off I would swap out the actinic bulb for a 6500k or 6700k daylight bulb, actinic do nothing to benefit plants and can also cause algae which is why they're commonly used for saltwater tanks. When do you plan to start dosing fertilizers? Because the plants are lacking nutrients which is causing them to deteriorate, and leading to dead patches which is a common sign of a iron deficiency. First the leaves will start turning yellow, then start turning transparent at the tip of the leaf and follow the yellowing down.

I would suggest using flourish comprehensive and dosing twice the amount it says on the bottle every other day until you can get dry fertilizers. What are you doing for co2, like co2 system, diy co2, or excel? What type of planted tank are you going for; Low light/low tech, or high light/high tech?


I suggest for dry fertilizers getting some plantex csm+b which is a micro nutrient mix, and getting potassium nitrate (N), monopotassium phosphate (P), and potassium sulfate (K) which are your 3 macro nutrients for NPK.

 

[aaron7353]

Well first off I would swap out the actinic bulb for a 6500k or 6700k daylight bulb, actinic do nothing to benefit plants and can also cause algae which is why they're commonly used for saltwater tanks. When do you plan to start dosing fertilizers? Because the plants are lacking nutrients which is causing them to deteriorate, and leading to dead patches which is a common sign of a iron deficiency. First the leaves will start turning yellow, then start turning transparent at the tip of the leaf and follow the yellowing down.

I would suggest using flourish comprehensive and dosing twice the amount it says on the bottle every other day until you can get dry fertilizers. What are you doing for co2, like co2 system, diy co2, or excel? What type of planted tank are you going for; Low light/low tech, or high light/high tech?


I suggest for dry fertilizers getting some plantex csm+b which is a micro nutrient mix, and getting potassium nitrate (N), monopotassium phosphate (P), and potassium sulfate (K) which are your 3 macro nutrients for NPK.

I don't have anything set up for co2. I was hoping to steer clear of it if possible because it would be pretty costly to find something for a 125 gallon tank. I may look into excel, however. I have heard that vals don't like excel and will melt. Is this true? Will flourish comprehensive harm any plants? I will also have a heavily stocked tank soon enough, so will that compensate for anything? Also, where would you recommend buying dry ferts? Thanks a lot for all the info.

 

[Ian21777]

You can cut the cost of co2 by using a large fire extinguisher or welding supply bottle. The initial outlay will be similar- regulator, diffuser etc. But monthly costs much less.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

 

[Aquaticfan]

As mentioned above get a 6500K bulb. Actinic can grow plants but not the most preferred spectrum. You wont need to worry about Co2 with that light set up. T8 over a 125 will be lower light requirements. You could however dose excel. It can be hard on Val's and some other sensitive plants like crypts and such, BUT if you go easy and basically acclimate them to increasing amounts without over dosing you should be fine and it will benefit your plants quite well actually.

The issues your having is due to nutrient deficiency to start with. The issues with the ferts your dosing is they are incomplete. As well as watered down and expensive. Dry ferts and Estimate index dosing would be a good recommendation along with some good root tabs for the root feeders like the val and sag and crypts and swords.. etc. Estimative index dosing is really easy to follow and makes the concerns of nutrient deficiency disappear. After the issues with nutrients I would look at some light modification. T8 is going to be lower light at that height for PAR output. If you DONT want to run Co2 then I recommend staying in the medium to lower output. At lower light levels some plants will grow slower and a little different. But by bumping up the light just a little it can help out more. But first thing is to get the nutrient concerns handled. Remember Light for plants = Work. Nutrients = food. If you have no food and no energy then you cant do work. And messaged you on the ferts.

 

[aaron7353]

You can cut the cost of co2 by using a large fire extinguisher or welding supply bottle. The initial outlay will be similar- regulator, diffuser etc. But monthly costs much less.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

Do you have a link or pictures to depict what you mean? I can't visualize or justify hooking up a fire extinguisher to my tank. Lol

 

[aaron7353]

As mentioned above get a 6500K bulb. Actinic can grow plants but not the most preferred spectrum. You wont need to worry about Co2 with that light set up. T8 over a 125 will be lower light requirements. You could however dose excel. It can be hard on Val's and some other sensitive plants like crypts and such, BUT if you go easy and basically acclimate them to increasing amounts without over dosing you should be fine and it will benefit your plants quite well actually.

The issues your having is due to nutrient deficiency to start with. The issues with the ferts your dosing is they are incomplete. As well as watered down and expensive. Dry ferts and Estimate index dosing would be a good recommendation along with some good root tabs for the root feeders like the val and sag and crypts and swords.. etc. Estimative index dosing is really easy to follow and makes the concerns of nutrient deficiency disappear. After the issues with nutrients I would look at some light modification. T8 is going to be lower light at that height for PAR output. If you DONT want to run Co2 then I recommend staying in the medium to lower output. At lower light levels some plants will grow slower and a little different. But by bumping up the light just a little it can help out more. But first thing is to get the nutrient concerns handled. Remember Light for plants = Work. Nutrients = food. If you have no food and no energy then you cant do work. And messaged you on the ferts.

I am planning to upgrade to T5HO soon, but everything reasonably priced comes with mixed reviews. What kind of good T5HO setups are REASONABLE ($200 range)? I also mean total cost, not just one 36" fixture of which I would need 2. Also, where can I learn more about the Estimate index dosing for the dry ferts? I'll likely make my own root tabs with dry ferts and natural clay.

 

[Aquaticfan]

I am planning to upgrade to T5HO soon, but everything reasonably priced comes with mixed reviews. What kind of good T5HO setups are REASONABLE ($200 range)? I also mean total cost, not just one 36" fixture of which I would need 2. Also, where can I learn more about the Estimate index dosing for the dry ferts? I'll likely make my own root tabs with dry ferts and natural clay.

I can help you with the dosing for Estimative indext dosing. Very very very easy.

Here is some info for you right here at our sister site

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?142895-Estimative-Index-Fertilization-Method

for your 125 this would be the doses

100-125 Gallons
1 1/2 tsp KNO3 3x a week
1/2 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week
1/2 tsp K2SO4 3x a week
1/2 tsp (30ml) traces 3x a week

Look at the chart on that to get an idea what the schedual would look like. Its very very easy. I just take a cup every moring with tank water dump my measured amount of fert to dose for that day. stir it up a little or shake it. Then pour it all into the tank and thats it. Water change at the end of the dose cycle.

As far as your lights. BE CAREFUL on T5HO. If you dont want to do Co2 then keep on the lower light side. Do you have the abillity to install the lights hanging above the tank so you could increase the height to tone down the intensity? if so then here is some lights id recommend for the $$$ they will work good and not go crazy on price or high light even though T5H0

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-2x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52122p.htm

Ive got a set on a 90 gallon and they work great. Get the 6500K bulbs they work great. This is the dual light set up.

OR the 4 light set up. You could run 2 bulbs at a time or all 4. All 4 may be to much and create issues with Algae without the use of pressurized Co2.

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-4x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52304p.htm

OR if you want one long light that will do the trick.. Here is the 72" version

http://www.aquatraders.com/72-inch-4x80W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52307p.htm

 

[aaron7353]

I can help you with the dosing for Estimative indext dosing. Very very very easy.

Here is some info for you right here at our sister site

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?142895-Estimative-Index-Fertilization-Method

for your 125 this would be the doses

100-125 Gallons
1 1/2 tsp KNO3 3x a week
1/2 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week
1/2 tsp K2SO4 3x a week
1/2 tsp (30ml) traces 3x a week

Look at the chart on that to get an idea what the schedual would look like. Its very very easy. I just take a cup every moring with tank water dump my measured amount of fert to dose for that day. stir it up a little or shake it. Then pour it all into the tank and thats it. Water change at the end of the dose cycle.

As far as your lights. BE CAREFUL on T5HO. If you dont want to do Co2 then keep on the lower light side. Do you have the abillity to install the lights hanging above the tank so you could increase the height to tone down the intensity? if so then here is some lights id recommend for the $$$ they will work good and not go crazy on price or high light even though T5H0

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-2x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52122p.htm

Ive got a set on a 90 gallon and they work great. Get the 6500K bulbs they work great. This is the dual light set up.

OR the 4 light set up. You could run 2 bulbs at a time or all 4. All 4 may be to much and create issues with Algae without the use of pressurized Co2.

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-4x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52304p.htm

OR if you want one long light that will do the trick.. Here is the 72" version

http://www.aquatraders.com/72-inch-4x80W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52307p.htm

Aquaticfan: you're a true help, thank you. It's kinda funny actually because I was debating those light systems, but I read bad reviews of previous systems from that company. I still think for the price that they are very reasonable and with your second opinion, I will go for them. Also, thank you for the dosing instructions. I will take not. How big of water changes are you doing at a time?

 

[aaron7353]

As far as your lights. BE CAREFUL on T5HO. If you dont want to do Co2 then keep on the lower light side. Do you have the abillity to install the lights hanging above the tank so you could increase the height to tone down the intensity? if so then here is some lights id recommend for the $$$ they will work good and not go crazy on price or high light even though T5H0

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-2x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52122p.htm

Ive got a set on a 90 gallon and they work great. Get the 6500K bulbs they work great. This is the dual light set up.

OR the 4 light set up. You could run 2 bulbs at a time or all 4. All 4 may be to much and create issues with Algae without the use of pressurized Co2.

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-4x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52304p.htm

OR if you want one long light that will do the trick.. Here is the 72" version

http://www.aquatraders.com/72-inch-4x80W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52307p.htm

I feel that the 36" ones may be a better idea as I could get replacement bulbs easier and without having to go online. Also, that would be enough light, correct?