Where to find Normally Open Electronic 110V solenoid ?

[flamenco-t]

I need to do a fail safe method on my drip system.

My idea is to use a float switch, if for some reason the drain pump in the sump is not pumping out, water level in the sump will rise to the level of the float switch.

Once the level reaches the max level height, then I'd like to use the solenoid to stop incoming water.

To do this, I need a normally open solenoid (closed when powered by the float switch trigger).

Any idea where i can get one ? I can use any kind of 1/8", 1/4" or 3/8" NPT OR 1/4" poly tubing (prefered)

Picture taken above is taken from autotopoff.com. They only sell the normally closed which is the same exact one I have in case of a power outage for the drain pump

stan

 

[CHOMPERS]

http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_esv.shtml

These are from the same manufacturer of the valve you have. They have normally open valves in 3/4" but you can always addapt down to what every size you are using.

 

[CHOMPERS]

Here's the ECI site:
http://www.alcon-ecivalves.com/

They have the specs on most of the valves there.

 

[SonsOfLeda]

You're thinking backwards, and both of the products you need are available through AutoTopoff.com, just like you listed in your OP.

1) Normal Operation Float Valve: Power turns off (not on) when the float switch is activated by high water level.

2) Normally Closed Solenoid: When the float turns the power off, the solenoid closes, thus shutting off the incoming water.



Side note: It's also done this way to prevent accidental indoor swimming pools in the event of a power outage.

 

[rallysman]

www.mcmaster.com has damn near everything

If you're looking for a fail safe method, think mechanical. Run the drip line into the sump through a mechanical float switch. if the water gets too high, the float goes up and as it floats up it'll turn the water off. Cheap as hell, easy as hell, reliable as hell. (may not work with a high pressure drip line)

This will keep you covered during a power failure as well.

 

[flamenco-t]

You're thinking backwards, and both of the products you need are available through AutoTopoff.com, just like you listed in your OP.

1) Normal Operation Float Valve: Power turns off (not on) when the float switch is activated by high water level.

2) Normally Closed Solenoid: When the float turns the power off, the solenoid closes, thus shutting off the incoming water.



Side note: It's also done this way to prevent accidental indoor swimming pools in the event of a power outage.

I see what you're saying, turn the float switch upside down to where the contact touches the float ring (therefore keeping it ON) When the water level is higher than intended, the float ring will float and separate from the contact (therefore turnng it off). Used the normally closed solenoid, which stays open when powered and closed when it lose power.

I do have a concern though, does having a float switch continously powered ON affect the longetivity of the switch ?

stan

 

[flamenco-t]

www.mcmaster.com has damn near everything

If you're looking for a fail safe method, think mechanical. Run the drip line into the sump through a mechanical float switch. if the water gets too high, the float goes up and as it floats up it'll turn the water off. Cheap as hell, easy as hell, reliable as hell. (may not work with a high pressure drip line)

This will keep you covered during a power failure as well.

I can still do this for the top of the tank, as my tank top is about 7-8' from the floor, so no one will be able to see the float switch.

I am running 30 Psi of water line through my dosmatic, will that be too much for the mechanical float switch ?

Stan

 

[CHOMPERS]

...I do have a concern though, does having a float switch continously powered ON affect the longetivity of the switch ?

stan

It depends. If the solenoid is within the operating limits of the float switch (shouldn't be a concern here but check anyway) then it won't make a difference. It is when you put a unit such as a pump with a large power draw on a small float switch that causes problems.

What wears them out is turning on and off. Arching occurs and it is this that burns the contacts. Again, if it is operated within its specs, a switch can last for decades.

 

[SonsOfLeda]

I see what you're saying, turn the float switch upside down to where the contact touches the float ring (therefore keeping it ON) When the water level is higher than intended, the float ring will float and separate from the contact (therefore turnng it off). Used the normally closed solenoid, which stays open when powered and closed when it lose power.

I do have a concern though, does having a float switch continously powered ON affect the longetivity of the switch ?

stan

That's the way they sell them at AutoTopoff.com. Their floats are usually meant to sit at the top of your aquarium and top it off with fresh water compensating for evaporation and other factors (important in salt especially to keep salinity levels consistant). You don't have to flip them upside down or anything, as they are normally sold that way.

 

[Dr Joe]

If you've got big fish make your you put a splash guard around the float switch so it isn't continuously turning on & off with water movement (small fish can die and jam the switch too).

Dr Joe

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