Why DIY Stands Fail

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CHOMPERS

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Apr 28, 2006
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I posted a reply to another thread with an awsome tank and stand. I have realized after looking at many of the DIY projects that we have a shortage of engineers here. Or at least they are not speaking up. Many stands are being built without proper bracing. The main force that your stand must withstand is the force of gravity. Gravity, of course, pulls the weight of your tank straight down. It also causes a side to side force if your stand is not perfectly plumb.

Here is a crash course in Trigonometry and Statics: imagine an icecream cone standing on its pointed end with one edge straight up and down. Ok, now scrap the cone image and replace it with a similar triangle (2-d) with the top horizontal edge square to the vertical edge. The angle that the triangle is standing on will be the only angle refered to in this discussion. The vertical edge represents the total force directed downward. The horizontal edge represents the amount of lateral force (the longer it is, the more lateral force). The edge at an angle connecting the other two represents the actual direction of the resulting force (the other two forces add together to give this resultant - This math is vector calculus and is well beyond any lay discussions). When your tank stand is perfectly plumb, this angle is zero and all of the force from the weight of the water is entirely directed along the vertical members in the stand. There is zero lateral force. If this angle is increased to 90 degrees, all of the force of the weight is directed to the side - imagine holding your tank out to your side on the end of a long board. (This example is flawed and is only offered to help the layman. The actual force at 90 degrees is the entire force pushing to the side.) If your tank stand experiences the entire force at 90 degrees, it is because it has faild and the parts are on the floor. Anyway, these are the two extremes of lateral force: zero force at zero degrees, and 100% of the force at 90 degrees. At zero degrees, the horizontal member of the triangle is non-existent and at 90 degrees the vertical member is non-existent. As the angle increases from zero to 90 degrees, the lateral force also increases.

Now imagine that you have your tank on a table with four legs. The legs are parallel but not plumb. The weight of the tank is evenly divided among the four legs. Let one leg represent the triangle edge at the angle in the above example. The greater the angle, the stronger the force to cause the legs to fold under the table and send the tank falling to the floor. This force that causes the failure of the table is the lateral force. The heavier the tank, the stronger this force is; just as a larger angle is a similar variable. The following equation can be used to calculate the lateral force for your tank stand. It also shows that larger tanks need more bracing than smaller tanks.

[(volume in gallons) x (8.333 pounds per gallon)] x sin(displacement measured in degrees)
(You will need a scientific calculator because of the sine function.)

In the following post to another thread, I used an individuals large tank stand as an example.
 
... This baby is California earthquake proof!!!! :WHOA:



Water weighs 8.333 lb per gallon. Jiggling 750 gallons of water one degree is given by the following equation:
(750 x 8.333) sin (1.0) = 109.03 lb of lateral force (for every degree of displacement) is generated and must be counter braced.

For five degrees that the tank is jiggled, 522.93 pounds of force must be counter braced. This does not take into consideration the inertial forces generated by the sloshing of the water.

For 45 degrees of displacement, 4417.65 pounds of bracing is required. If the inertial effects are at a maximum at the time of maximum displacement, 10665.10 pounds of lateral force will have to be countered with bracing to make your stand earthquake proof.

Stamped sheet metal corner braces tear at the inside corners at a fraction of this force. Lag bolts will also pull out before you see a hint of this type of force.

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If you live in an area that has large swings of humidity from summer to winter, your fasteners will lose their grip in the wood (the holes will enlarge). After a number of years, someone is bound to lean against your tank, setting in motion a very ugly numerical and gravitational sequence.

Your best buddy leans against the tank with a force of 50 lb, causing a displacement of half of a degree. This displacement with the weight of the water adds another 50 lb of lateral force. Added to your buddy's leaning force, there is now just over 100 lb of lateral force which pulls the tank almost an additional half degree. Each time there is an addition of displacement, there is an addition of force...and every time there is an addition of force, there is an addition of displacement. This sequence is continued until the displacement is felt by your buddy who stops leaning on the tank ~ do this experiment - lean against the wall with your shoulder or back and then stop leaning...without pushing off!!!

Bad quickly gets worse, until all of a sudden, you are looking for a new best friend.

Do your friend a favor and add diagonal beams to properly brace your tank.

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Engineers do not learn how to design pretty things. They learn how and why things fail.
 
Whoa... THEY were right, you will use math when your all grow'd up...if they'd said I would be building something it would made it more interesting. (couse it was harder then, multiplying roman numerals and all, and we were too poor to afford sin let alone cos:ROFL: )

Good job, Hey how about a pod cast on this (or a power point):drool:

How about giving the members some bracing ideas. If they brace it incorrectly it will corkscrew to the ground rather than collapsing. NOBODY wants to lose a tank let alone have to explain why they are growing bog plants in their living room carpet.:D
 
One thing that I have found is that heavy plywood sheathing (if properly attached) works a good bracing againt lateral motion. The largest I have built was for a 150g and the only diagonal braces it had were to support the lighting hood. It was way over built
 
look at a commercial stand for a 180 or larger some time. They are made of 3/4 OSB that is tacked together. I think its safe to say if your stand is square and true and you use 2x4's for a frame of any kind that you have a fairly good chance of surviving. this is the stand for my 220 and it has no diagonal bracing. I did however use screws instead of nails and liquid nailed every board on the frame to prevent the loosening of fasteners. I also added braces in between the top and bottom frames so that the weight wasn't resting on the fasteners.(second pic) I am not worried one bit obout my stand cratering on me. Overbuilding is the only way to go!!!
stand2.jpg

100_0716.jpg
 
i had a custom built stand... it has 8 legs like the picture above. but the 8 legs were built using 4x4s and 2x4s all around (2x4's are sitting on the 4x4s plus screws to keep them intact). it's for my 180 gal tank. the stand was way too heavy. 2 guys could barely lift it 5" above ground. it was a struggle. the tank was a lot lighter (it's acrylic). no regrets on having a over built stand. rather than an under size and sleepless nights.;)
 
One thing that I have found is that heavy plywood sheathing (if properly attached) works a good bracing againt lateral motion. The largest I have built was for a 150g and the only diagonal braces it had were to support the lighting hood. It was way over built


:iagree:
 
How big a tank is that? did you aslo use glue?
I cap stands 55g and larger with 5/8" ply over the supports then cover that with 1/4"cork board so that the bottom gets full support, it is probably not needed but it makes me feel better.
 
Does this look strong enough? :) 1/2" cabinet quality plywood outside a 4x4 and 2x4 support frame.

Yes, but I have some conserns. It should be vertically supported where your doors close. Wood is great for crossing spans under load, but long spans in a humid condition are prone to warpage. After warpage (or yielding), your tank's weight will be supported on its two ends and the adhesive that keeps the tank together. Plywood is lousy for support against compressive stress because it can buckle under load. It is good for diagonal support to counter shear strain deformation (to prevent shaking, jiggling, and leaning).

My other consern is that you have 2x4's on end without bridging (they look like 2x3's). Bridging is simply blocks of wood that prevent tipping of the upright 2x4's while under load. Cut some blocks to fit snuggly and then glue them in place over your horizontal 4x4's. Better safe then sorry.
 
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