Why is my PH always so low?? Best ways to adjust??

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
S

STONEDFISH

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 19, 2005
795
7
0
..in an octopus' garden in the shade:)
I always have a ph on the low end of any tests I buy. So it's at least 6.2, could be lower. Why is this? It's driving me nuts!!
I keep mixed a variety of fish in all my tanks, so a ph close to neutral would probably be best.
I've tried the ph buffers and such, but they usually only temporarily raise it. What else can you add to raise the ph safely? I don't want to spike it and kill all the fish. What has lasting effects?
I've got concerns about my Frontosa, I know they like a high ph, not 6. Fronts are more sensitive than my Dats, but I think they both will be OK at around 7.5. I know it isn't optimal, but I think they would be happier?
What do you think guys....i keep wasting money on chemicals and junk.
stndfsh:grinno:
 
damn i have the opposite problem. i cant keep my PH down. im always at 7.6 or 7.8. and its keeping me from getting sum awesome fish
 
I got the same problem.... I hate it !!!!!!
 
Do you hve alot of driftwood in your tank? The tannins/tannic acid leach out and lower the pH of your water.
 
I have one piece of driftwood and a few plants.... I don't think it would have too much effect, but maybe??
I'm going to look into the crushed coral. Do I just add it slowly or would I want to tear down the whole tank and change substrates?
That would probably push me over 8....which would be rough on my plecos I think. I think 7.5 is the number I want.

stndfsh
 
Start with this: What's the pH of your tap water?
If your tap's pH is low, then you can add a cup of CC at a time into a stocking, to your HOB filter or a canister (even better). If your tap is neutral/high, then you just aren't doing enough large WC.
 
I had the exact same problem, because my gH was way too low. Baking soda is great for combating the hydrogen ions and adding bicarbonate. Dose slowly until your pH buffering is appropriate.
 
Low carbonate hardness (KH) is the probable cause. This is comsumed by the actions of the beneficial bacteria and the natural acidification of your water. The higher the bioload, the greater the consumption of KH. Once it gets below approx 4.5 dH the pH becomes unstable and will be prone to drop.

You can help reduce the causes of acidification such as by keeping your filters clear of excessive amounts of waste sludge and limiting the amount of bogwood in the tank.
Also carbon dioxide produced by plants or large stocks of fish will acidify the water - this can be reduced (blown off) by heavy aeration.

Regular large water changes will replace the KH but this obviously depends on how much is in your tap water to begin with.

If water changes alone prove to be inadequate then you can increase KH by adding bicarbonate of soda - here's a really nice, and very useful online calculator http://www.dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/CalKH.asp?
Bicarb is very effective but needs to be added regularly.

Adding crushed coral or oyster shells to your filter is also an option to keep the KH up as they slowly dissolve and release carbonates. Personally I would choose the oyster shells rather than coral as they dissolve completely letting you know when to replace them whereas coral leaves an inert skeleton behind after all the carbonates have been used up.

I consider my KH test kit to be the most important as I have high bioload tanks and relatively low KH tap water. Consequently I go through a lot of bicarb too!
:thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom