Wondershell Mineral Blocks

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nzafi

Goliath Tigerfish
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Mar 14, 2008
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Anyone used these? Recently encountered someone that had a piranha with damage from disease and they used this to help full heal the scales/skin. They were referenced by others that used it. My aimara got sick about 15-16 months ago and had something has created significant scarring on his head where his scales/skin was literally eaten away. While I was able to cure him, it never healed and I was thinking of using this. I believe some folks have used this to help with HITH scarring.

Thoughts?

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/MedicatedWonderShell.html
 
Also, the same folks that used this are also looking into vitamin C dosing which I think some believe in, and others don't.
 
IMHO a complete money grab. If you want or need to add minerals to your water, buy some marine salt in bulk and add that once a week after water changes. That will supply the exact same thing, at a fraction of the cost. A large bag of marine salt would last most people years. Before doing so, I would advise checking your tap water first, our mineral content here is quite high.
 
IMHO a complete money grab. If you want or need to add minerals to your water, buy some marine salt in bulk and add that once a week after water changes. That will supply the exact same thing, at a fraction of the cost. A large bag of marine salt would last most people years. Before doing so, I would advise checking your tap water first, our mineral content here is quite high.

Is that just checking for hardness (kh and gh)? I have insanely hard water where I live and high ph.
 
Marine salt, you know, like Instant Ocean. Hell even sea salt sold at a health food store contains 60-70 different minerals, and would be a fraction of the price of wonder shells.

As an example ...........

Analysis: Coarse Grey Sea Salt

Chloride: 51%; Sodium: 32%; Water from crystalization: 7%; Sulfur: 1.12%; Zinc: .87%; Magnesium: .50%; Iron: .38%; Potassium: .26%;Manganese: .026%; Copper: .018%; Calcium: .012%; Silicon: .011%; Micro-Elements: Carbon: .034%; Strontium: .009%; Boron: .004%; Hydrogen: .003%; Fluorine: .001%; Nitrogen: .0008%; Argon: .0005%; Lithium: .0002%; Rubidium: .00014%; Phosphorus: .000112%; Iodine: .00007%; Barium: .00002%; Molybdenum: .000012%; Nickel: .000008%; Arsenic: .0000037%; Uranium: .0000038%; Vanadium: .0000024%; Tin: .0000009%; Cobalt: .00000045%; Antimony: .00000035%; Silver: .00000032%; Krypton: .00000024%; Chromium: .0000002%; Mercury: .0000002%; Neon: .00000012%; Cadmium: .000000112%; Selenium: .0000001%; Germanium: .00000007%; Xenon: .00000006%; Scandium: .00000005%; Gallium: .000000035%; Zirconium: .00000003%; Lead: .000000026%; Bismuth: .000000024%; Niobium: .000000023%; Thalium: .000000022%; Gold: .000000019%; Pico-traces of: Helium; Lanthanum; Neodymium; Thorium; Cerium; Cesium; Terbium; Yttrium; Dysprosium; Erbium; Ytterbium; Hafnium; Gadolinium; Prasodymium; Beryllium; Samarium; Holmium; Lutecium; Tantalum; Thulium; Europium; Tungsten; Protactinium.


If my count is correct, I counted a total of 71 minerals & trace elements.


But of you have insanely hard water, and a high pH, chances are you have plenty of mineral content in your water, so I'm not sure what you are attempting to achieve?
 
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RD. RD.

any thoughts on this?

calcium montmorillonite clay
 
I wrote the following close to a decade ago.


Calcium montmorillonite clay & the 60 mineral compounds ......


This logic or theory (I don't believe there are any scientific papers on the subject of feeding clay to fish) originates with mud/clay bottomed Koi ponds in Japan, and the belief by many Koi breeders that mud lined ponds produce better Koi than cement ponds. This logic is based on the belief that the natural mineral content found in mud enhances the fishes color & overall health, as do the natural feedstuffs found in a mud bottomed pond. With the fish feed costing over half the total costs of running a Koi farm, this would also translate into overall operation savings, especially if organic & inorganic fertilisers are added to the pond (such a chicken droppings) to maximize the natural feedstuffs found in the pond.

I don't believe that the idea of the adsorption properties of clay ever played into this concept in the early days of breeding Koi, but is more of a recent event since the promotion & sale of this clay by health gurus over the past 25 years or so. While there are scores of vendors selling clay for the use in Koi ponds, I certainly don't see many freshwater or marine people jumping on the clay bandwagon.

While adding trace mineral elements to tap water that's void in certain minerals may be beneficial to some fish, a high quality food will contain an ample amount of these trace elements & minerals in the food itself. If for whatever reason one is still concerned about this, an easy fix would be to add something as simple as a teaspoon of a natural sea salt to your tank with each water change. See above for more info on that.
 
I wrote the following close to a decade ago.


Calcium montmorillonite clay & the 60 mineral compounds ......


This logic or theory (I don't believe there are any scientific papers on the subject of feeding clay to fish) originates with mud/clay bottomed Koi ponds in Japan, and the belief by many Koi breeders that mud lined ponds produce better Koi than cement ponds. This logic is based on the belief that the natural mineral content found in mud enhances the fishes color & overall health, as do the natural feedstuffs found in a mud bottomed pond. With the fish feed costing over half the total costs of running a Koi farm, this would also translate into overall operation savings, especially if organic & inorganic fertilisers are added to the pond (such a chicken droppings) to maximize the natural feedstuffs found in the pond.

I don't believe that the idea of the adsorption properties of clay ever played into this concept in the early days of breeding Koi, but is more of a recent event since the promotion & sale of this clay by health gurus over the past 25 years or so. While there are scores of vendors selling clay for the use in Koi ponds, I certainly don't see many freshwater or marine people jumping on the clay bandwagon.

While adding trace mineral elements to tap water that's void in certain minerals may be beneficial to some fish, a high quality food will contain an ample amount of these trace elements & minerals in the food itself. If for whatever reason one is still concerned about this, an easy fix would be to add something as simple as a teaspoon of a natural sea salt to your tank with each water change. See above for more info on that.

thanks RD. RD.

Why i am asking is because i am using it for my tanks on the advice of a private ray breeder who uses it for his rays.

my rays and fishes are fed mostly frozen food, abstained from pellets due to fear of carotene or dislike for pellets

do you think the clay serves the same purpose as the sea salt so i can use either 1 or better to use both?

Just found this... does it qualify as a research article?

https://www.jscimedcentral.com/Aquaculture/aquaculture-2-1008.pdf

https://www.icidr.org/jeiadc_vol3no... the Diet of Catfish (Clarias gariepinus).pdf
 
Impossible to answer as I know nothing about your tap water, or your tank specifics. I think it would be best to start your own thread in the ray section and see what other ray owners have to say.
 
Marine salt, you know, like Instant Ocean. Hell even sea salt sold at a health food store contains 60-70 different minerals, and would be a fraction of the price of wonder shells.

As an example ...........

Analysis: Coarse Grey Sea Salt

Chloride: 51%; Sodium: 32%; Water from crystalization: 7%; Sulfur: 1.12%; Zinc: .87%; Magnesium: .50%; Iron: .38%; Potassium: .26%;Manganese: .026%; Copper: .018%; Calcium: .012%; Silicon: .011%; Micro-Elements: Carbon: .034%; Strontium: .009%; Boron: .004%; Hydrogen: .003%; Fluorine: .001%; Nitrogen: .0008%; Argon: .0005%; Lithium: .0002%; Rubidium: .00014%; Phosphorus: .000112%; Iodine: .00007%; Barium: .00002%; Molybdenum: .000012%; Nickel: .000008%; Arsenic: .0000037%; Uranium: .0000038%; Vanadium: .0000024%; Tin: .0000009%; Cobalt: .00000045%; Antimony: .00000035%; Silver: .00000032%; Krypton: .00000024%; Chromium: .0000002%; Mercury: .0000002%; Neon: .00000012%; Cadmium: .000000112%; Selenium: .0000001%; Germanium: .00000007%; Xenon: .00000006%; Scandium: .00000005%; Gallium: .000000035%; Zirconium: .00000003%; Lead: .000000026%; Bismuth: .000000024%; Niobium: .000000023%; Thalium: .000000022%; Gold: .000000019%; Pico-traces of: Helium; Lanthanum; Neodymium; Thorium; Cerium; Cesium; Terbium; Yttrium; Dysprosium; Erbium; Ytterbium; Hafnium; Gadolinium; Prasodymium; Beryllium; Samarium; Holmium; Lutecium; Tantalum; Thulium; Europium; Tungsten; Protactinium.


If my count is correct, I counted a total of 71 minerals & trace elements.


But of you have insanely hard water, and a high pH, chances are you have plenty of mineral content in your water, so I'm not sure what you are attempting to achieve?

More curiosity than anything else :)
 
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