the STUPID THING WONT WORK! i filled the tubes with water and even had a 50 gallonn filled up to filter out but it wont start the motor just runs... got me very frustrated and angry SO MAD I WAS ABOUT TO THROW IT OUT THE BALCONY ..j/p how do i work the damn thing ?? help please.
xp3 problems need help!
- Thread starter LiLG
- Start date
If this is your first time using it all you do is lift the flap up, make sure the lines aren't kinked up and if your using the spray bar with the valve, that the arrow is pointing straight with the bar and sideways from it, fill the tube up, replace the cap over the intake, and then close the flap down, just make sure it's firmly seated on the base when you do. It should have enough pressure to fill the base and blow any air out the return tube. Just let it totally fill up before you turn it on so that all the air is out.
Only problem I had with mine is just getting the tubes to fit over the intake and return pipes without breaking them. Seems like I had to hulkafi just to get them on. Mine has been running for 2 weeks now and I love it. Water is crystal clear.
Only problem I had with mine is just getting the tubes to fit over the intake and return pipes without breaking them. Seems like I had to hulkafi just to get them on. Mine has been running for 2 weeks now and I love it. Water is crystal clear.
I almost forgot. Don't turn it on till it's completely full of water. Once you close the flap wait 2 minutes or so till you don't hear any more bubbles coming out the return tube. Once the base is full then crank er' up. Once mine was running for a couple of minutes I couldn't even hear it any more. My airator makes more noise than my xp3 does.
Only fill the intake btw, by filling both you run the chance of creating a vapor lock.
Also, Make sure there's no loops, kinks or any slack in the tubing (cut it to fit, this also improves flow rate.)
Make sure the the tank is full and all the fittings are pushed together firmly (air breaks syphons.)
On the output, make sure there are no U's or places for air to get stuck. It should loop over the top and do a 90 degree turn to make the spraybar horizontal at the most.
Unplug it, drain it, and slide the connector back into the canister (keeping the handle up to block the flow of water,) unscrew the intake cap, add water untill it's full (it will ususaly take only one 21oz cup of tank water,) quickly screw the cap on, push the connector firmly into the canister and lower the level, water should (maybe slowly at first) start pooring into the canister and bubbles should exit the return line into the tank. After 2-5 mins, turn the canister on, walla.
Also, it wont work right unless it's some number of inches (I think around 24) below the tank.
You'll never need to remove that cap and add water to the intake again unless it sucks alot of air into it somehow, cleaning it is a breeze.
Also, Make sure there's no loops, kinks or any slack in the tubing (cut it to fit, this also improves flow rate.)
Make sure the the tank is full and all the fittings are pushed together firmly (air breaks syphons.)
On the output, make sure there are no U's or places for air to get stuck. It should loop over the top and do a 90 degree turn to make the spraybar horizontal at the most.
Unplug it, drain it, and slide the connector back into the canister (keeping the handle up to block the flow of water,) unscrew the intake cap, add water untill it's full (it will ususaly take only one 21oz cup of tank water,) quickly screw the cap on, push the connector firmly into the canister and lower the level, water should (maybe slowly at first) start pooring into the canister and bubbles should exit the return line into the tank. After 2-5 mins, turn the canister on, walla.
Also, it wont work right unless it's some number of inches (I think around 24) below the tank.
You'll never need to remove that cap and add water to the intake again unless it sucks alot of air into it somehow, cleaning it is a breeze.