YIKES!!!! NEED HELP QUICK!!!!! New 300!!!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
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peterp63

Candiru
MFK Member
Feb 13, 2008
770
0
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On a boat!
I recently put my 300 gallon in service and it is absolutely beautiful and operating wonderfully. It is a room divider that I built into the wall between my breakfast eating area and my family room (I will post pics shortly). The only problem is that I JUST found out that my ProClear 300 wet/dry filter does not hold enough water for a power outage or maintenance event. WHAT DO I DO????

My thoughts...

1. Increase the number of slits in the acrylic divider overflow cover. This would reduce the level in the main tank that would end up in the sump in the event of a power outage. (I really like the level as full as it is now though, plus that would be a big task and I would probably make it look uglier than heck)
2. I'm pretty sure the Durso Standpipes are fully extended, but I can check this. If not, fully extending them will keep a larger volume in the overflow... wait, no it won't. Will it? It shouldn't matter how tall the Dursos are, they are just for lowering the noise level of the water, right???
3. My dad (mechanical engineer) suggested using solenoid valves that shut when the power shuts off. Simple, but not really what I was thinking....
4. Drill a hole in the acrylic sump and route the water to additional capacity (rubbermaid box of some sort).
5. Not much room for it, but I could place the entire sump in a larger rubbermaid box if I could find something with the right dimensions.

QUESTIONS: Do the Dursos, slowly leak at the fitting connections? I'm wondering if I eventually get this corrected and a power outage lasts several hours, would the Durso standpipes slowly leak most of the water down into the sump from the overflow????

ONE MORE: I am also using an Eheim 2260 that returns via reverse flow undergravel filter. I am concerned that there is not enough flowing through this filter due to the pressure drop through the RF UGF. I drilled 1/16" holes every inch all the way through the 3/4" PVC and it came to like over 500 holes and the cross-sectional area of all of these holes combined is much larger than the 1" return line, so I thought this would be plenty. Now that it is in service I am skeptical about the flow rate. I know it's sucking pretty good because I can see the suction screen pulling stuff in, but with the small diameter holes potentially plugging and the gravel on top of the UGF I just need some peace of mind. Any suggestions on how to measure flow here??

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!! I will post pics shortly.

http://picasaweb.google.com/peterp63/AquariumProject02
 
I can't really answer your question on the sump issue as I have no personal experience with one.

Regarding the 2260 flow issue, you can always install a flow meter in the output line. Unfortunately the only ones I've seen max out at 500 GPH.

But I do see some issues looking at the pics you have in the link. I would suggest mounting the 2260 filter pump so the output fitting comes out the side and shortening the hose so it doesn't dip down so far. And also shortening the hoses on the other Eheim (2080?). You are losing a fair amount of flow with the spaghetti mess that I see. I'm not being mean, it's just what it looks like.

BTW, what media are you using in the 2260? I have one & I love it.
 
Could you just put a few things in the overflow box to reduce its volume?Like a capped soda bottle full of water?
How much volume are you short in the sump?
 
I would say add another backup water storage tank. but drill your sup high so that water will only go into the other tank once the water level in the sump goes well above the average water line. and move the 2260 as far to the lfet as possible. that will offord you the extra space. But you will more then likly have to recut your lines to the canister.
 
I am using only activated carbon in the 2260. My bioload is being handled by the ProClear 300, Reverse-Flow UGF, and Eheim 2028 (Pro II). I had a suggestion from another forum that maybe my return nozzles are too low into the water and their is actually back flow in the line when the pump is shut off. I will check this when I get home. This is my first time with such a large tank and with wet/dry filters and overflows... AND with RF UGF. And the 2260 is only my 2nd canister that I've owned. I went from beginner to beginner with a lot of stuff in a second! Thanks for the comments y'all!!!
 
My durso standpipes do not leak any water out, I've tested it overnight and the water level was the exact same. I did use plumbers tape on them though so maybe thats the difference?
 
My dursos are connected to the bulkhead with threads that are taped as well, but the dursos are adjustable and I was wondering if they could leak through the adjustment fittings. Just curious, because a long power outage could cause problems. If adjustments on the return nozzles do not solve the problem of too much water for my sump I will need to drill the acrylic PC 300 and connect it to a 20 or 30 gallon for additional capacity. I always wanted a freshwater refugium so that won't be entirely bad. Especially if the acrylic is easy to drill. Any suggestions? I have a hole saw, is that all I need???
 
To my knowledge the only way a Durso is adjustable is by the amount and / or the size of the hole drilled into the cap. Your water level should never be that high anyway so it should not overflow through there.
 
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