Hex treatment

[Dieboldly]

Knamycin can be found made by the same company that the metro is sold by. It's kanaplex. Methylene blue and kanaplex were 2 of the items I recommended you get to have as an emergency kit.

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Oh okay cool and yea I remember! Ill pick them up tmrw when I get paid thanks for all the info and support guys


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[Coryloach]

Just one thing I'd like to note. There's a possibility that metro is not effective against a heavy hex infested fish maybe because the protozoa has a resistance or because metro is not stable for long enough in the water and the parasite survives, especially if treating fish that don't accept food and can't be treated with medicated food.
I made the same mistake. Treated with metro in the water(fish not eating, those that ate were spitting medicated food out and refused to eat it), got no results. Thought it's not hex then, ended up with a few months battle with fish still dying and me trying to figure out what parasites, worms or even bacterial infection they had.
The problem was eventually sorted with a different hex med called JBL spirohexol which was way easier to administer as it needs a one off dose in the water to stay for a week. Fish showed improvement in only a day and all perked up, all deaths halted.

So metro is something I never bought again. These days I treat with Epsom salt soaked food if I see early signs on fish and it works like a charm but then again I know how it manifests on the types of fish I keep. It's either white feces or fish losing bulk weight slowly but surely. Loss of appetite is very late stages of hex....sometimes too late...A fish can be infested for months, half a year before it finally succumbs to it and stops eating. It doesn't always develop fast in my experience. It's more of a slow killer unlike bacterial infections causing the same symptoms.


Hex can be eliminated in high temperature tolerating species by slowly raising the temp to 37C for at least 24 hours, discus keepers recommend for 4-5 days, that's if you are sure there's no bacterial issue involved otherwise it will kill the fish.
Bacterial issue following hex is not uncommon too as the fish's immune system is destroyed from the stress and prolonged periods of non eating.
But I agree that a bacterial issue can cause similar white feces and lack of appetite. However, it kills the fish faster than hex.

Another med, although untried, that may work against hex and is relatively easy to administer, is flubendazole. I haven't tried it myself so can't comment how effective it is but it will purge a wide range of other possible internal worms all in one treatment, possibly the most broad spectrum and relatively harmless med for de-worming. But may need a double treatment for hex.

 

[Dieboldly]

Just one thing I'd like to note. There's a possibility that metro is not effective against a heavy hex infested fish maybe because the protozoa has a resistance or because metro is not stable for long enough in the water and the parasite survives, especially if treating fish that don't accept food and can't be treated with medicated food.
I made the same mistake. Treated with metro in the water(fish not eating, those that ate were spitting medicated food out and refused to eat it), got no results. Thought it's not hex then, ended up with a few months battle with fish still dying and me trying to figure out what parasites, worms or even bacterial infection they had.
The problem was eventually sorted with a different hex med called JBL spirohexol which was way easier to administer as it needs a one off dose in the water to stay for a week. Fish showed improvement in only a day and all perked up, all deaths halted.

So metro is something I never bought again. These days I treat with Epsom salt soaked food if I see early signs on fish and it works like a charm but then again I know how it manifests on the types of fish I keep. It's either white feces or fish losing bulk weight slowly but surely. Loss of appetite is very late stages of hex....sometimes too late...A fish can be infested for months, half a year before it finally succumbs to it and stops eating. It doesn't always develop fast in my experience. It's more of a slow killer unlike bacterial infections causing the same symptoms.


Hex can be eliminated in high temperature tolerating species by slowly raising the temp to 37C for at least 24 hours, discus keepers recommend for 4-5 days, that's if you are sure there's no bacterial issue involved otherwise it will kill the fish.
Bacterial issue following hex is not uncommon too as the fish's immune system is destroyed from the stress and prolonged periods of non eating.
But I agree that a bacterial issue can cause similar white feces and lack of appetite. However, it kills the fish faster than hex.

Another med, although untried, that may work against hex and is relatively easy to administer, is flubendazole. I haven't tried it myself so can't comment how effective it is but it will purge a wide range of other possible internal worms all in one treatment, possibly the most broad spectrum and relatively harmless med for de-worming. But may need a double treatment for hex.

I just ordered the product called "clear" as a back up plan for future


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[jmolter86]

I just ordered the product called "clear" as a back up plan for future


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Who did you order the clear from? Just be advised that it does work, but nobody really knows what the ingredients are. You have to force feed the fish the meds. It's seems to act as some kind of laxative and the fish just craps all the time then it's poop turns to yellow. It's a 5 day treatment plan. Everyone in Thailand swears to it for their flowerhorns.

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[Dieboldly]

Who did you order the clear from? Just be advised that it does work, but nobody really knows what the ingredients are. You have to force feed the fish the meds. It's seems to act as some kind of laxative and the fish just craps all the time then it's poop turns to yellow. It's a 5 day treatment plan. Everyone in Thailand swears to it for their flowerhorns.

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I bought it from someone on eBay since stores around me don't carry it and that's the only way for me to get it. I think I will go this step next if the metro doesn't work after 7 days. I'll see if I can get the link but the bottle looks just like the one I've seen


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[Dieboldly]

Who did you order the clear from? Just be advised that it does work, but nobody really knows what the ingredients are. You have to force feed the fish the meds. It's seems to act as some kind of laxative and the fish just craps all the time then it's poop turns to yellow. It's a 5 day treatment plan. Everyone in Thailand swears to it for their flowerhorns.

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Here is the link.... Bought it here. Seems to have no bad reviews.



http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261864417313

Flowerhorn fish medicine for white poop free syringe for feed


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[jmolter86]

Hopefully it's legit clear. There is alot of bootleg stuff on ebay. Alot of the Grand sumo and humpy head, specialty flowerhorn foods, are fake.

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[Dieboldly]

Hopefully it's legit clear. There is alot of bootleg stuff on ebay. Alot of the Grand sumo and humpy head, specialty flowerhorn foods, are fake.

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Well I'll be buying all that at my LFS...this was purchased just because I couldn't buy in store


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[jmolter86]

Well I'll be buying all that at my LFS...this was purchased just because I couldn't buy in store


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Really there isn't a need to feed them special foid. If you want to that's your choice. I would recommend nls as a staple. Or Hikari. I use Hikari for my flowerhorn only because he won't except nls. I have good results with head growth and colors.

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[Dieboldly]

Really there isn't a need to feed them special foid. If you want to that's your choice. I would recommend nls as a staple. Or Hikari. I use Hikari for my flowerhorn only because he won't except nls. I have good results with head growth and colors.View attachment 1073471View attachment 1073472

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Yea he looks nice. Looks small still....how long have you had him?


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