Over the past few weeks-month we have lost a few fish, we didnt know why so we brought a sample of the tank water to Petsmart. They tested the water and our pH was low, the hardness levels were low and the Nitrates were high. We bought Prime and pH up and used that in the water. We tested it again a few days later. Nothing changed. We then did a 20-25% water change. Tested the water again. Nothing changed. We added Prime. Waited 2 days. Added pH up. Waited a few days, tested it again...nothing changed. When we did the water change, we also changed the carbon filters hoping to fix the water hardness levels. The general hardness is at 30. The carbonate hardness is between 0-40. The pH is at 6.5, nitrites are at 0 and the nitrates are at 200. I use the API 5 in 1 test strips. What can we do to fix the tank? Help us!! Pleaseee!
African Cichlid Tank pH & hardness problems
- Thread starter JamieB0812
- Start date
I suggest stop using the ph up that may be making things worse sudden ph swings will put fish in shock. Also you didn't mention your ammonia reading.
When we took the sample to Petsmart she said the ammonia was fine. I dont have the ammonia section in my 5 in 1 test kit
First thing to do is check with your water company to see what the normal pH, alkalinity, and hardness of your tap water are.
If you live in a large enough city, water companies often post a water quality report on line which often lists everything you need to know.
If your water is soft, and has low alkalinity and pH, maybe you should rethink the kind of fish you keep.
There are plenty of west African species and/or S American cichlids that would work in softer lower pH water.
Trying to adjust tap water is often a loosing proposition.
It is better to keep species that fit your conditions, rather than the other way around.
Freshwater fish are constantly uriniating, which makes pH drop.
If your conditions are due to a lack of water changes and the alkalinity of your tap water is low, then regular biweekly water changes may be needed. And a substrate of aragonite (crushed coral) may be needed to stabilize pH
If you live in a large enough city, water companies often post a water quality report on line which often lists everything you need to know.
If your water is soft, and has low alkalinity and pH, maybe you should rethink the kind of fish you keep.
There are plenty of west African species and/or S American cichlids that would work in softer lower pH water.
Trying to adjust tap water is often a loosing proposition.
It is better to keep species that fit your conditions, rather than the other way around.
Freshwater fish are constantly uriniating, which makes pH drop.
If your conditions are due to a lack of water changes and the alkalinity of your tap water is low, then regular biweekly water changes may be needed. And a substrate of aragonite (crushed coral) may be needed to stabilize pH
suprisingly no one has said this yet but ditch the test strips, they are very inaccurate, get a liquid test kit. also like stated above add crushed coral to the tank as your substrate. also test the water directly out of the tap and see if it is different from the tank. part of the reason you arent seeing any differences when adding the ph up is because you have a carbon block in you filter. 200 nitrates imo is way to high, luckily mine never get too high but anything over 80 is way to high( just my thoughts)
I assume the reading you have given for Kh, Gh is in PPM(parts per millon) and not Degrees. I agree with the above poster get rid of those test strips.
You need to do more frequent water changes. Nitrates at 200 ppm's is very high.Water changes will bring down your nitrates. Don't go too large at first. A few 25 water changes in a row will help the fish get used to frequent water changes. After a few days in a row of 25% water changes increase the water changes to 50 %. You should be doing at least 50% per week. Make sure to test your tap water for Ph, Kh and Gh. If all numbers are the same as the tank your ok. You don't want your ph to swing wildly. Add some baking soda 1 teaspoon at a time. This will slowly raise the Kh and PH. The good thing about Baking Soda (Not Powder) is it will max your Ph at 8.2. Which is great for African rift lake cichlids. To raise you Gh you can add some epsom salts or some Calcium Chloride.
How many fish are in the tank and what species? Also how big is the tank?
You need to do more frequent water changes. Nitrates at 200 ppm's is very high.Water changes will bring down your nitrates. Don't go too large at first. A few 25 water changes in a row will help the fish get used to frequent water changes. After a few days in a row of 25% water changes increase the water changes to 50 %. You should be doing at least 50% per week. Make sure to test your tap water for Ph, Kh and Gh. If all numbers are the same as the tank your ok. You don't want your ph to swing wildly. Add some baking soda 1 teaspoon at a time. This will slowly raise the Kh and PH. The good thing about Baking Soda (Not Powder) is it will max your Ph at 8.2. Which is great for African rift lake cichlids. To raise you Gh you can add some epsom salts or some Calcium Chloride.
How many fish are in the tank and what species? Also how big is the tank?
Ditch the test strips. I wouldn't bother dosing anything (baking soda/epsom salts) until you get your nitrates down. Unless they're wild caught, I wouldn't bother dosing anything, ever. just keep up with frequent water changes. If your well water is a PH of 6.5 all the time, just keep some crushed coral or some limestone in the tank, that'll naturally raise the PH a bit. Do you have driftwood in your tank? That'll lower the PH
Just an echo but yes you need to focus on the nitrates. Don't bother with buffering your pH you will just cause it to swing more and cause more harm then good. There are plenty of fish that are not wild caught that are in lower pH tanks and have done fine. I would be more concerned about my nitrates at the moment. I have never had mine above 25. As suggested do small frequent water changes until you can get that under control. Once you do have it under control test weekly to see what your chemistry is. I know you said you are on well water (which where I live is usually way better than city but I am in FL) test your well water as well and see what the readings are on it. You can always test the water before doing your water changes, I had to do this with my city water when I moved. Do not use the test strips get a liquid kit to use. I used to have a bi weekly water change schedule. If you want to work on the pH then as suggested get crushed coral and lime stone rock for your tank and that will naturally raise the pH and should not cause the fluctuations you will probably get from the buffer.
