It's about 16-20$ for a big caulking gun style tube. One tube will do a standard 125-150g
Appropriate Silcone Caulk for sealing a tank.
- Thread starter Itsadeepbluesea
- Start date
That's not a bad price.
And just because I am tired of this crap, I'll actually post some proof of my claims. I'm sure I'll get some people who don't bother to read the links so I'll also quote the important parts here. Tensile and shear are the important strengths when it comes to tank building. Depending on if you build on the bottom or around it changes which one comes into play.
Now, my champion, the Momentive RTV 103 or 108, here is a good link with all you would ever want to know-
http://www.momentive.com/Products/ShowTechnicalDataSheet.aspx?id=10289
Page two is where we find the info that we need-
Now go and search for the same for GE I or II. You wont be able to find the numbers anywhere. Want to know why? Because it is so low they don't even publish the numbers. I've talked with people who have called GE, GE advises not to use their product because the strength is so low on it. You don't have to take my word for it, call them and ask yourself if you would like.
I know the none believes out there will still doubt and in turn just try to attack me, but at least when I argue my point I supply proof and sources. I dont just give the old, "it worked for me so I must be right!"
And just because I am tired of this crap, I'll actually post some proof of my claims. I'm sure I'll get some people who don't bother to read the links so I'll also quote the important parts here. Tensile and shear are the important strengths when it comes to tank building. Depending on if you build on the bottom or around it changes which one comes into play.
Now, my champion, the Momentive RTV 103 or 108, here is a good link with all you would ever want to know-
http://www.momentive.com/Products/ShowTechnicalDataSheet.aspx?id=10289
Page two is where we find the info that we need-
So 400 psi for tensile and 200 for shear. Some pretty decent numbers.
Now go and search for the same for GE I or II. You wont be able to find the numbers anywhere. Want to know why? Because it is so low they don't even publish the numbers. I've talked with people who have called GE, GE advises not to use their product because the strength is so low on it. You don't have to take my word for it, call them and ask yourself if you would like.
I know the none believes out there will still doubt and in turn just try to attack me, but at least when I argue my point I supply proof and sources. I dont just give the old, "it worked for me so I must be right!"
I've used GE 1 alot in the past and I'm not arguing that it makes it ideal or safe, however I've only used it on the interior bead (non load bearing seam) on quite a few tanks. I've never disassembled a tank and put GE silicone between the panes of glass.
Since GE is super weak, but the inside seam isn't load bearing would you consider it OK for that application assuming the silicone between the glass was in good shape?
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Since GE is super weak, but the inside seam isn't load bearing would you consider it OK for that application assuming the silicone between the glass was in good shape?
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The biggest problem with that is if there is a leak in the tank the seam between the glass is compromised as well. It could just be a slow leak or it be the start of something worse.
Many people argue all that needs to be replaced is that corner bead and you will be fine. I dont necessarily agree, I think that's only doing a partial job of resealing a tank. That all said, that corner bead has very little structural strength, the tank is primarily held by silicone between the panels, a tank can be built without the corner silicone, its primary purpose is to protect the structural seams.
So, just replacing the corner bead, sure, you could use GE silicones. I wouldn't, but I like knowing there are no potential flaws in my silicone.
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Many people argue all that needs to be replaced is that corner bead and you will be fine. I dont necessarily agree, I think that's only doing a partial job of resealing a tank. That all said, that corner bead has very little structural strength, the tank is primarily held by silicone between the panels, a tank can be built without the corner silicone, its primary purpose is to protect the structural seams.
So, just replacing the corner bead, sure, you could use GE silicones. I wouldn't, but I like knowing there are no potential flaws in my silicone.
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Well after much research and consideration I decided to forgo the GE and got actual aquarium sealant. I went on amazon to look, and the 2 that came up were Aqueon and ASI. The aquaeon was a about $1 cheap so I purchased that 10.3 ounces which should be good for my 70. It was more expensive than the GE but mostly because of the shipping. It ended up being $11.98 with shipping included. Nice thing is I have had a $5 credit kicking around on there forever since we use my wife's prime account these days (credit was there before prime account). So not to bad overall.
The interesting thing I noticed with my research is that though many people said the GE was not strong enough, I couldn't find any first hand accounts that someone had a rupture when using. Most people who used it said it worked great for them. That being said, with the amount i'll most likely put in to this tank, I felt the risk just wasn't worth it (that and what water damage could cost).
The interesting thing I noticed with my research is that though many people said the GE was not strong enough, I couldn't find any first hand accounts that someone had a rupture when using. Most people who used it said it worked great for them. That being said, with the amount i'll most likely put in to this tank, I felt the risk just wasn't worth it (that and what water damage could cost).
I've reapplied the corner silicone on a couple of older tanks that didn't leak as a precautionary measure. After reading alot of your posts I've decided if I have another tank spring a leak I'll be disassembling and doing it the proper way. Unless its a really small tank.
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Here is one for you with multiple tries-
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13669&highlight=
You may have to log in in order to view pics and everything. But long story short, he uses a crap silicone and gets leaks. Goes to a better one and it holds water perfect first try. Granted I will admit some of it may be user error, by that final try he knew what he was doing. In any case, still hard to argue with the results. There are some others out there, but you don't see a ton of them. That said, why risk it? A $10 tube of silicone will be the cheapest thing by far to we use on or around our tank, why cheap out there?
It is very possible those old leaking tanks may not leak again, but in my mind why risk it? If water is getting through the seam you have a structural issue going on, not something I would want to risk. On a small tank, yeah probably not an issue, but on MFK I see a lot of post about people wanting to do a patch job on 100+ gal tanks, that isn't something to mess around with. Best to do it right with a good, quality silicone or have a pro do it.
RTV 103/108 or SCS1200. They're construction grade adhesive instead of just a sealer. They're FAR stronger than GE I and are used in the aquarium industry to build tanks. A bit more expensive, but lasts far longer as the secondary seal since they have a stronger seal to the glass, so accidental scraping is less likely to peel it back.
I'm also in agreement with fishguy that if the tank is actually leaking, the primary structural seal has failed, and the tank SHOULD be rebuilt. It may be just fine, but that gap is a point of weakness, and also a sign the silicone has degraded enough to separate where it should NOT.
The silicone in the gaps can degrade very quickly in sunlight, or an empty tank. Even a fairly new tank may need a complete rebuild if left outside empty, or used on a stand that stresses the seams.
I'm also in agreement with fishguy that if the tank is actually leaking, the primary structural seal has failed, and the tank SHOULD be rebuilt. It may be just fine, but that gap is a point of weakness, and also a sign the silicone has degraded enough to separate where it should NOT.
The silicone in the gaps can degrade very quickly in sunlight, or an empty tank. Even a fairly new tank may need a complete rebuild if left outside empty, or used on a stand that stresses the seams.
I also endorse the RTV 103/108 option. I bought it from Grainger, which is right down the street from me.
Smells to high heaven though - like someone poured vinegar in your nostrils. My pregnant wife did NOT appreciate me using it! The smell dissipates after a few days. (I think it took that long because the tank was in my 45 degree garage.
Smells to high heaven though - like someone poured vinegar in your nostrils. My pregnant wife did NOT appreciate me using it! The smell dissipates after a few days. (I think it took that long because the tank was in my 45 degree garage.
