DIY Glass Build Plans (260g) - thoughts?

Revan

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 10, 2017
54
21
23
Hello All,

I am considering a new DIY glass build. I would love to hear any and all feedback on viability of my plans. I know there's a lot about this already in the forum, but every situation is unique and I like to be careful.

Dimensions: 84" L x 24" W x 30" H
Gallonage: ~260 US gallons
Material: regular plate glass 1/2 inch
Assembly:
Front & Back - will sit on top of the bottom piece. i.e. the seam will be horizontal, not vertical. panels will run the full length of the bottom
Sides - will sit on top of the bottom piece. panels will fit between the longer front and back
Bracing: four glass strips (~ 4 inches wide) spaced across the top
Bottom (this is my biggest area of concern) - flush bottom (i.e. non-floating) supported by a flat-top stand with a sheet of styrofoam underneath to cushion imperfections. I am also considering a 2nd layer of glass, smaller than the first layer by 1/2 inch on all edges. So the sides will not only sit on the very bottom piece, they will also connect vertically with the "top" bottom piece....extra strength is the idea. I worry though...would two bottom pieces laying on top each other cause stress fractures?

This will be my second build; the first being a 135g glass 3x3x2 with a floating bottom and euro-bracing.

Would love some input from any experienced tank builders out there! Thank you.
 

craigfish1

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 15, 2022
14
14
3
47
Lake Charles, la
Hello All,

I am considering a new DIY glass build. I would love to hear any and all feedback on viability of my plans. I know there's a lot about this already in the forum, but every situation is unique and I like to be careful.

Dimensions: 84" L x 24" W x 30" H
Gallonage: ~260 US gallons
Material: regular plate glass 1/2 inch
Assembly:
Front & Back - will sit on top of the bottom piece. i.e. the seam will be horizontal, not vertical. panels will run the full length of the bottom
Sides - will sit on top of the bottom piece. panels will fit between the longer front and back
Bracing: four glass strips (~ 4 inches wide) spaced across the top
Bottom (this is my biggest area of concern) - flush bottom (i.e. non-floating) supported by a flat-top stand with a sheet of styrofoam underneath to cushion imperfections. I am also considering a 2nd layer of glass, smaller than the first layer by 1/2 inch on all edges. So the sides will not only sit on the very bottom piece, they will also connect vertically with the "top" bottom piece....extra strength is the idea. I worry though...would two bottom pieces laying on top each other cause stress fractures?

This will be my second build; the first being a 135g glass 3x3x2 with a floating bottom and euro-bracing.

Would love some input from any experienced tank builders out there! Thank you.
Hi. I know this is a older post. I am in the process of building a all glass tank, in the exact same way as detailed in the post. Including the double bottom pane, smaller 1/2' on all sides. May I ask if you built the tank, and how it has gone for you. I've been working , planning, and researching my tank build for 6 months now. The assembly is beginning for me, very carefully and slowly. Direct injection method. Footprint is 72" x 42" x 20".
 

Revan

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 10, 2017
54
21
23
Hi. I know this is a older post. I am in the process of building a all glass tank, in the exact same way as detailed in the post. Including the double bottom pane, smaller 1/2' on all sides. May I ask if you built the tank, and how it has gone for you. I've been working , planning, and researching my tank build for 6 months now. The assembly is beginning for me, very carefully and slowly. Direct injection method. Footprint is 72" x 42" x 20".
Hello. I was surprised to get a notification on this old post. lol. I'm happy to provide an update.

I did build the tank, but with a few modifications to the design.

- changed the height to be 26", rather than 30".
- did not do 4 cross-braces, but rather a complete eurobracing, with 1 cross brace in the middle just to hold up lids.
- did not include a whole 2nd bottom piece, but rather just around the interior perimeter. Essentially I eurobraced the bottom inside. I felt this accomplished the extra joint strength, while removing risk of stress fractures across the bottom panel. But it may have been over-kill. I have not done this for any other glass builds since, and they are all fine.

You can see the tank in this video. It's the first one I show.

 

craigfish1

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 15, 2022
14
14
3
47
Lake Charles, la
HI Revan. Thankyou for your reply. Also, all the great information. I am literally beginning my assembly this week, evenings. I feel like I should ask you more questions, but like i said, i have done serious homework, i feel. I was already subscribed to your channel, YouTube, so I was already a fan of yours. The aquarium you built is beautiful. My small shoal of frontosa will be going in this new 300,, lol.
This is my first build, and ambitious. I am a professional carpenter and remodel pro, so lots of experience with assembly of anything, and silicone use. Lots of experience, properly re- sealing tanks also. I have a bulletproof base built . Doing direct injection. Using 1/16" tiny plastic spacers which will remain in place. I will build framework with 2x4, and use corner clamps to hold its position. Glass is 1/2".
Eurobraced so they overlap. Additional bottom panel which is 1/2 " short, is 3/8" thick (and cost a additional $330,,lol)
I took notice that you essentially eurobraced bottom inside. I have a perfect level surface. I am using the highest grade aquarium silicone. I tape everything properly and remove immediately after applying silicone.
Thankyou for your reply again. Its great to connect with someone who has done this same thing. Wish me luck. I am confident and expectations are high. I've spent the money on all the best supplies and equipment to run the sump filtered tank.
I welcome any other thoughts, and thanks. Craig
 
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Revan

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 10, 2017
54
21
23
HI Revan. Thankyou for your reply. Also, all the great information. I am literally beginning my assembly this week, evenings. I feel like I should ask you more questions, but like i said, i have done serious homework, i feel. I was already subscribed to your channel, YouTube, so I was already a fan of yours. The aquarium you built is beautiful. My small shoal of frontosa will be going in this new 300,, lol.
This is my first build, and ambitious. I am a professional carpenter and remodel pro, so lots of experience with assembly of anything, and silicone use. Lots of experience, properly re- sealing tanks also. I have a bulletproof base built . Doing direct injection. Using 1/16" tiny plastic spacers which will remain in place. I will build framework with 2x4, and use corner clamps to hold its position. Glass is 1/2".
Eurobraced so they overlap. Additional bottom panel which is 1/2 " short, is 3/8" thick (and cost a additional $330,,lol)
I took notice that you essentially eurobraced bottom inside. I have a perfect level surface. I am using the highest grade aquarium silicone. I tape everything properly and remove immediately after applying silicone.
Thankyou for your reply again. Its great to connect with someone who has done this same thing. Wish me luck. I am confident and expectations are high. I've spent the money on all the best supplies and equipment to run the sump filtered tank.
I welcome any other thoughts, and thanks. Craig

Sounds like you have definitely planned this out well. And given your experience in carpentry I'm sure you'll do just fine in the assembly.

I did not use a full 2nd bottom piece, as I was worried about point-loads or stress fractures, but I am interested to hear back from you on how it works out. Let me know.

My only suggestion is to water test the tank, on it's final stand with final sand and rocks, before putting fish in. May sound excessive, but on a first-time build I would error on the side of caution.

Good luck!
 
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