HELP!! sick Red tail catfish

[jackson palaszewsky]

Have you tested your water?

Yes

If yes, what is your ammonia?

under .25ppm

If yes, what is your nitrite?

under .25ppm

If yes, what is your nitrate?

under 20ppm

If I did not test my water...

...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.

Do you do water changes?

Yes

What percentage of water do you change?

11-20%

How frequently do you change your water?

Every two weeks

If I do not change my water...

...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.

hi so i have these two RTC’s in a 1800 gallon pond with some gar oscar and irredecent’s and i just recently noticed red abrasion marks on both my rtcs none of the other fish seem to be bothered but the rtc’s are seeming more lethargic than usual water parameters are good the bottle just looks a little darker because of the lighting but nitrate is reading just under 20ppm and ammonia under .25ppm water temps stay between 76-86 depending on external temperatures i tried melafix and some other bacterial/ fungal meds and it didn’t do much any ideas on how i can resolve this?

 

[Fishman Dave]

The readings are not fine. You shouldn’t have any reading of ammonia or nitrite. The issue with the red tails is ammonia. I think you need to be doing larger water changes and trying to figure why you are getting these spikes now.

 

[jackson palaszewsky]

The readings are not fine. You shouldn’t have any reading of ammonia or nitrite. The issue with the red tails is ammonia. I think you need to be doing larger water changes and trying to figure why you are getting these spikes now.

are you sure because both are reading under the recommended limit it says to keep nitrate below 20ppm and ammonia under .25 ppm i’m not trying to challenge you’re statement just making sure i’m using the api master kit if it makes any difference i’m not sure if all test brands are the same or not? and if it is just the water quality causing this would a major water change followed by more frequent water changes be all that’s needed?

 

[FJB]

Probably that is all is needed. But nitrite and ammonia should be zero. Something may have affected negatively your biofiltration. Until recovery, more frequent water changes, and make sure not to allow biofilter to falter.

 

[jackson palaszewsky]

Probably that is all is needed. But nitrite and ammonia should be zero. Something may have affected negatively your biofiltration. Until recovery, more frequent water changes, and make sure not to allow biofilter to falter.

ok awesome i have a stacked filter system with a few layers of ammonia and nitrate removing pads and then bio filter media on the bottom should i replace the bio media i’ve always only replaced it once every 6-12 months and the pads weekly?

 

[jjohnwm]

The ammonia and nitrate removing pads are perhaps useful if one's tank is not fully cycled; once the tank is cycled, these pads are unrequired and a waste of money, since the bacteria in the biologically mature filter will metabolize ammonia and nitrite, and water changes will remove the nitrate as it accumulates.

So, obviously, you should not be changing the biomedia...ever. Biomedia in a "stacked" filter should be the last layer the water passes through, after it has been mechanically filtered to remove solid particles and prevent it from clogging. It might need to be occasionally rinsed to remove sludge that starts to clog it up, ideally using old tank water to preserve the bacteria and protect them from chlorine in tap water.

Constantly changing biomedia is about the worst thing you could do to your tank, your filter and your fish, and the fact that you have been doing so pretty much explains the problem you are now inflicting on your fish.

 

[phreeflow]

are you sure because both are reading under the recommended limit it says to keep nitrate below 20ppm and ammonia under .25 ppm i’m not trying to challenge you’re statement just making sure i’m using the api master kit if it makes any difference i’m not sure if all test brands are the same or not? and if it is just the water quality causing this would a major water change followed by more frequent water changes be all that’s needed?

Nitrite and nitrate are two different things. The former should zero, along with ammonia, which would indicate you have enough biological filtration.

 

[tlindsey]

The ammonia and nitrate removing pads are perhaps useful if one's tank is not fully cycled; once the tank is cycled, these pads are unrequired and a waste of money, since the bacteria in the biologically mature filter will metabolize ammonia and nitrite, and water changes will remove the nitrate as it accumulates.

So, obviously, you should not be changing the biomedia...ever. Biomedia in a "stacked" filter should be the last layer the water passes through, after it has been mechanically filtered to remove solid particles and prevent it from clogging. It might need to be occasionally rinsed to remove sludge that starts to clog it up, ideally using old tank water to preserve the bacteria and protect them from chlorine in tap water.

Constantly changing biomedia is about the worst thing you could do to your tank, your filter and your fish, and the fact that you have been doing so pretty much explains the problem you are now inflicting on your fish.

I agree with not adding those ammonia or nitrate removing pads. Also agree with not to constantly changing your biomedia.
I was one that used ammonia remover gimmicks I call them now. They can cause more aquarium water issues that can be avoided with proper feeding, proper consistent water changes and filter maintenance. Also when I first started off in keeping fish I used carbon to help keep aquarium water from smelling. Now I don't use carbon but my aquariums don't smell. Carbon just mask problems imo. Don't get me wrong though carbon is great in a situation like removing meds.