jardini gill curled up

moe214

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Lol yea, I had a wolf that I bought with it once, it had it in one gill, it was brought into the lfs they out it in a 15 gallon and it was like 10", I always liked wolves and felt bad for it so I bought it, I looked into it, I decided I wouldn't do it because it's not even for sure that it'll grow back correctly. And his case wasn't bad, ended up being the most personable wolf I have had yet.
 

Rotaryp04s

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Aug 11, 2011
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don't think I can do the trimming. LOL
+1 on trimming, people that been keeping fish for years dnt have problems with this method, but for now your aro gill going to be like this for along time better to fix since it still young. Easier to control the fish when it out the water for the job. Good luck
 

Richard203

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2016
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right now I have to fix my water first. my water have ammonia all of a sudden after adding the nitrate reactor but I took it out already, and changed water and added seachem stability.
 

arowanaman85

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Feb 8, 2016
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Nitrate reactor. One brave soul. Seachems amoniaalert will measure the toxic amonia Api test measure both would recommend it if you think it's amonia. would test ur ph in the mean time lower pH means less toxic amonia and slowly nitrogen cycle...

If u wanna reduce them safely try some plants. Arowana don't seem to be bothered by them.....would also dose prime or safe if you have it to reduce the toxic form of amonia quickly. 4x dose. I always try to avoid massive water changes and cleaning the tank to much.

Make sure u also have lots of airation nitraticstion is an areobic bacteria denitrification is anaerobic. Gotta be careful. I have had good luck but your other problem is pH drops from denitrification which can also kill and cause ur current problem because it kills off ur aerobic bacteria and eventually ur anaerobic bacteria.

Then u might start to get hydrogen sulfide. Fun stuff
Toxic as hell and smells like sewage. Well anaerobic sewage. Sewage plants use blowers similar to our air stones to keep digester areobic....
 

Richard203

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2016
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Nitrate reactor. One brave soul. Seachems amoniaalert will measure the toxic amonia Api test measure both would recommend it if you think it's amonia. would test ur ph in the mean time lower pH means less toxic amonia and slowly nitrogen cycle...

If u wanna reduce them safely try some plants. Arowana don't seem to be bothered by them.....would also dose prime or safe if you have it to reduce the toxic form of amonia quickly. 4x dose. I always try to avoid massive water changes and cleaning the tank to much.

Make sure u also have lots of airation nitraticstion is an areobic bacteria denitrification is anaerobic. Gotta be careful. I have had good luck but your other problem is pH drops from denitrification which can also kill and cause ur current problem because it kills off ur aerobic bacteria and eventually ur anaerobic bacteria.

Then u might start to get hydrogen sulfide. Fun stuff
Toxic as hell and smells like sewage. Well anaerobic sewage. Sewage plants use blowers similar to our air stones to keep digester areobic....
ya I got api master test kit and keep testing it every other day. im using seachem stability right now to get back the good bacteria and im dosing prime every other day after my test result. After 7 days ima change my water and stop using prime and stability and see how it goes. I have 1 plant in the tank. I just want to try new stuff so I brought a reactor and put some denitrate and matrix in and 2 week later screwed my water and my jaridini have a screwed up gill.
 

arowanaman85

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Feb 8, 2016
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That shouldn't of done it....did u create low oxygen zones?

I use matrix almost exclusively on my display tank. Is pretty and functional. Does seem to help idk also have a ton of pothos....never had amonia spike from it. pH drop but it was slow and I keep South Americans and they didn't seem to care slowly brought it back up to tap level and added some crushed coral for buffering carbonates. Like two media bags of it. Added very slowly over the course of a month just a handful every few days.

Nice part is I can maintain 0 nitrate with out pH swing
Bad part is my ph is sitting at 6.8-6.9 and my chocolates stopped breeding. They were breeding every month when I was keeping it at 5.9-6.2...sorry going off topic
Another positive is I Can use snails to clean my matrix media again woohoo!


Sorry but two weeks of that shouldn't cause ur issue. Any other changes

Maybe a better explaination of your denigrate reactor?

Do U aerate ur display to off gas by products and get in oxygen? Do u have a DO test kit or TDSS? (Long shot I know)

What are your temps and pH?

Those are really the big question if you haven't cleaned a filter or did a massive substrate cleaning. What killed removed your nitrifying bacteria.

Now for the super duper bit question. Nitrite! Is it detectable
This will seriously **** your fishes gills and blood and oxygen.

So wish list here:
Amonia combined ppm or mg/l
Nitrite ppm or mg/l
Nitrate u can ignore this for now
pH gonna wanna do the low test (more then likely) what is your pH
Temp. Very important if you don't have the kits below

Now if you have them these can be handy with ur cercumstance
DO ppm?
Turbity or tdss total dissolved suspended solids?

And assuming a low pH what is your carbonate hardness

Understand if u don't wanna run these but can give u a solid perscription and fix with schedule if u want it :)
 

arowanaman85

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Feb 8, 2016
200
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Vandergrift, PA
Oh other thing to do check your tap water for amonia. If they dose chloramine(who doesn't since 911) then your want to use a much larger dose of prime when doing water changes as this will kill ur bacteria and release amonia into your tank at the same time! It's the reaction of adding chlorine and amonia together.

Has a longer life dissolved in water (doesn't evaporate out like chlorine gas which is more like how soda loses carbonation when left out. Chloramine is a salt it gets stronger when u let water sit out as the water evaporates) and takes more prime to remove and is a lot more efficient at killing your cycled biological filters bacteria and the big reason it is used. if you have a large tank(u should for a jardini) seachem safe will be a better choice for dealing with it as 1/4 teaspoon will treat 100 gallons of water with high chloramine where u need what a bottle of prime idk haven't used liquid in a bit tank...
But those parameter I asked for before will also tell you exactly what is causing your issue

That and the exact events in the days leading up to high test levels.
 

Richard203

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2016
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Ok heres the test result I did just now.

Nitrate - 10-20ppm (cant tell the difference in color)
Nitrite - 0ppm
Ammonia - .50-1ppm (cant tell the difference in color)
PH - 6.0
 

arowanaman85

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Feb 8, 2016
200
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Vandergrift, PA
Now if u don't have chloramine and u are on public water they are probably using chlorine gas in multiple points of distribution. Depending on A ton of factors. If u have old school chlorinated water u should test it before a water change. It is rediculously common for old chlorine dosing system to fail. Now they get fixed quick. dEP is on that **** like white on rice. But u really don't wanna be the unlucky sole to lose ur fish or get them sick because an instrument at a water tower when out of sync and started over dosing chlorine....chloramine is usually only dosed at the treatment plant and is generally monitored more closely and is in a facility that is staffed more frequently if not 24/7 and generally monitored better, when it goes it's fixed quick and diluted to the point where u won't ever see it by the time it reaches ur tank if it even is allowed to enter distribution
 
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