New uromastyx, need an exact ID

[mscamp02]

Picked up this little guy recently and he was sold as a Niger yellow Uromastyx however I don't know what the actual species name is. Looking a tad thin but he's eating well and I've got him set up with better temps and food vs the pet store. I know have him eating various greens vs just fruit pellets like the store.

Anyways, does anyone on her know what the exact ID is?

 

[Frank Castle]

Looks like Uromastyx flavifasciata.

Also, always remember the 5 Fatals to never feed a reptile - Citrus fruit, Rhubarb, Artichokes, Asparagus and of course fried foods. (yes, actually knew a girl who fed her Beardie chicken nuggets ) . Grapes are hard to digest and Spinach also has oxalates (sp?) which act as calcium-blockers, but when fed infrequently can offer a lot of beneficial nutrients as well. When I say citrus fruit, I mean stuff like oranges and grapefruits - Mangos and Papayas are "considered" citrus fruit, but I don't see anything bad happening if you want to give it a small portion of mango as a treat once a month. Tomatoes should be avoided

Do you have 2-3 lights on him? What temperature do you keep him at?

 

[syddakyd]

petstores in NY used to have "mali" all the time now I never see them. I had a baby I traded after a few months. should have kept it. one day I actually caught it eating seeds lol. I forget why it had access to them this was 15 years ago. apparently they do in the wild occasionally. I love lizards that will eat non-moving food

 

[Frank Castle]

petstores in NY used to have "mali" all the time now I never see them. I had a baby I traded after a few months. should have kept it. one day I actually caught it eating seeds lol. I forget why it had access to them this was 15 years ago. apparently they do in the wild occasionally. I love lizards that will eat non-moving food

we used to feed our Uros a mixture of Parakeet seed/Grassland Tortoise diet mixed w/ a little water

 

[mscamp02]

Looks like Uromastyx flavifasciata.

Also, always remember the 5 Fatals to never feed a reptile - Citrus fruit, Rhubarb, Artichokes, Asparagus and of course fried foods. (yes, actually knew a girl who fed her Beardie chicken nuggets ) . Grapes are hard to digest and Spinach also has oxalates (sp?) which act as calcium-blockers, but when fed infrequently can offer a lot of beneficial nutrients as well. When I say citrus fruit, I mean stuff like oranges and grapefruits - Mangos and Papayas are "considered" citrus fruit, but I don't see anything bad happening if you want to give it a small portion of mango as a treat once a month. Tomatoes should be avoided

Do you have 2-3 lights on him? What temperature do you keep him at?

His basking area is between 115 and 120 depending on the exact area, I read 120 plus but I don't want to move the lights any closer. There is also a UVB bulb but I think I need an additional bulb for heat to bring it up a bit and have it extend down to the far side better, currently sitting at 78 only with the middle around 90 95.

Thanks for all the help with ID and food, would you use a heat pad? I've read to many mixed things on that

 

[krichardson]

I have always liked the looks of these guys,like bearded dragons they remind me of horned lizards.I was tempted to get one a few times years ago but their high heat temperature requirements caused me to hold back.

 

[tlindsey]

His basking area is between 115 and 120 depending on the exact area, I read 120 plus but I don't want to move the lights any closer. There is also a UVB bulb but I think I need an additional bulb for heat to bring it up a bit and have it extend down to the far side better, currently sitting at 78 only with the middle around 90 95.

Thanks for all the help with ID and food, would you use a heat pad? I've read to many mixed things on that

I don't know about now but i used a heat pad years ago for a Mali Uromastyx.

 

[Frank Castle]

His basking area is between 115 and 120 depending on the exact area, I read 120 plus but I don't want to move the lights any closer. There is also a UVB bulb but I think I need an additional bulb for heat to bring it up a bit and have it extend down to the far side better, currently sitting at 78 only with the middle around 90 95.

Thanks for all the help with ID and food, would you use a heat pad? I've read to many mixed things on that

I wouldn't, heat mats don't get hot enough for Uros or Beardies.....you could look into the Mercury-vapor bulbs if you really wanted to.

 

[mscamp02]

thanks, I'll take a look

 

[crayfishguy]

I actually just spent a half an hour typing, before realizing I should just post a link. This is the best resource as far as Uromastyx care is concerned, other than talking to keepers and breeders directly. (I'm happy to help further if you have any questions). This is a site I have helped out with:
http://urowiki.weebly.com/
Some additional comments:
Please remember to get a fecal done with a qualified reptile vet if you haven't already. Imports often come in with very high parasite loads.
Uromastyx are very stress prone animals. I do not handle any of my uros unless they voluntarily seek it out (usually at the prospect of food.) Rewarding your animal with food when it is bold enough to come close is a great way to build trust, grabbing them or restraining them will simply convince them you are a predator.
While your animal is not in perfect health, I recommend non particulate substrate, such as tile or paper towel. Impaction will not occur with a healthy animal, but it is a concern when dehydrated. To combat this, offer unflavored pedialyte to your uro. It is great for getting them re hydrated.