Tegu cage building thread

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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I just installed part of the door. I might just use plexiglass but we will see. I installed the 1ft lip for the substrate though and coated it.

tip: paint is for the wood NOT your clothes.

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Toby_H

Polypterus
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Jun 21, 2007
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rrcoolj;4209333; said:
If I can I will get for the 2nd coat drylock and leave the killz for the outside.
That is what I did for my 4x2x2...

Two ounces of black pigment in Kilz makes a nice "battleship Grey"... 2 ounces of black pigment in grey Drylock makes a very compatable "battleship Grey"...


PS - I love your tips. You'll have to consolidate them into a single post when the project is complete...
 

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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nc_nutcase;4209713; said:
That is what I did for my 4x2x2...

Two ounces of black pigment in Kilz makes a nice "battleship Grey"... 2 ounces of black pigment in grey Drylock makes a very compatable "battleship Grey"...


PS - I love your tips. You'll have to consolidate them into a single post when the project is complete...
Thanks for all the help nc_nutcase... and glad you like the tips lol

Well I think I MIGHT have made a mistake. I bought drylok but I don't think it's the kind you were referring too NC_nutcase. You can see on the can. I did not realize it until I was almost done painting. The drylok paints on thin and milky. It almost looks like soap. It dries clear. But, based on the instructions on the back I believe it will still serve it's purpose. I finished painting the interior of the wood almost. I think I will add a thick third coat of Killz and just use regular paint for the outside. Tommorrow will be a bit slow. I have to paint the house tommorrow and my mom wants it done so I have to do it. I still might paint a third layer of killz and then I have to paint the wood facing the outside. After that I will install the vents and lighting fixtures. By tuesday I will most likely be taking it inside for assembly and I predict it will be "done" by wendsday.

Tips:

1)make sure to cover every inch of the wood with your sealnt. Even the little edges.

2) read the labels of what you buy so you know you got what you wanted.

3)Don't skimp on things you need. Better to do it right the first time then to have to do it over.

pics...

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Toby_H

Polypterus
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Jun 21, 2007
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You got the wrong stuff...

The stuff you got is meant for applying to, for sxample, a driveway or garage floor, to create a 'polished look' and repell water. I use the standard Drylock which appears as a latex paint with grit in it.

The can featured on this site is what I use, and to the left are links for the other tyles. I use "Latex Based Masonry Waterproofer" (you used Masonry Treatment).

http://www.ugl.com/drylokMasonry/masonryWaterproofer/latex.php

I have no personal experience with the product you used, so I am not saying it won't work, I just don't know how well it will work. I am looking forward to learning your result though. It may be something worth adding to my arsonul of options....
 

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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Well after letting it dry I have to admit the product seems to be doing well. It dosen't feel like wood like when I had the killz. It litterally feels like there is a clear covering over the wood and it feels almost smooth to the touch. I believe the product wil do it's job. I will admit the label says "not reccomended as a waterproofer" and then it says "bad against hydrosonic water jets"? I am pondering using a second coat of this becaus it does look very good. What do you think I should do nc_nutcase?

update:just finished globbing silicone on small outside openings.

tip: Inspect insde part of enclosure and make sure there are NO openings.
 

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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Here is a description I found on it...

"
DRYLOK® Masonry Treatment penetrates deep to seal and protect masonry against acids, alkalis, household cleaners, gasoline, oil and salt.
This VOC compliant, water base formula seals against dusting and retards spalling (surface cracking and pock marking) and weathering.


  • A protective coating for masonry surfaces
  • Prevents moisture damage, stops excessive dusting
  • For brick, terrazzo, slate, concrete and other masonry surfaces
  • Excellent primer for latex paint
  • Application tools clean up with soap and water "
I think I will be ok
 

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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And this...

"Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer is a low odor, water clean-up formula for waterproofing all interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basements, concrete swimming pools and foundation. No pre-mixing or pre-wetting necessary. Withstands 10 pounds of hydrostatic pressure, greater than a wall of water 22 feet high. Guaranteed to stop water even under pressure. This Drylock Masonry Treatment is one of many top quality items in our Hydraulic Repair department."
 

rrcoolj

Jack Dempsey
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Bogwoodbruce;4211015; said:
Its looking great so far, and gorgeus tegu too!
Thanks! After I feed him I will show you guys how orange he is.

Got up early to do some more painting and to touch up with the silicone. Again progress will be slow today. Mostly painting and waiting. I also have to paint my living room. I have to wait 6hrs for the drylok and silicone to dry so I am going to paint my living room while I am waiting. Then I will apply the outside paint. Not many pics but I do want to show the drylok. It is milky and creamy and taste really nasty. But having inspected the previous coat I can see how it works. While the previous coat was drying some debri must have fell on the wood. The debri looks "trapped" under the drylok solution and I can't even touch it. Hopefully this stuff works.

tip:Again inspect all nooks and crevices for ANY possible holes. Silicone is your best friend... when used properly.

pics...

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snakeguy101

Fire Eel
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Jun 29, 2009
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rrcoolj;4211082; said:
It is milky and creamy and taste really nasty.
pics...
that's what she said... sorry I had too.

Why were you tasting silicone?
 
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