Using pond treatment on a tank?

kevvang08

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Would it be wise to use api pond algaefix on a tank because 1 gallon is $47.49 than a 16 oz is like $10.92. I think getting a 1 gallon pond algaefix is cheaper than get 8 "16 oz" of algaefix which cost almost $87.36. Could I use pond ecofix sludge destroyer too? If I have api stress coat do I even need to buy api tap water conditioner since stress coat does remove chlorine. Also my water tank is still cloudy and it fish scales looks weird like it popping. I think it still a baby tank cause I have it almost 6 months already. I currently use api quick start, stress zyme, and stress coat every water change.
 
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skjl47

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Hello; posting so I can follow this thread. I have a general notion using chemical algae killers is not a good idea but the specific reasons do not come to mind just now so I will just watch.

I am also curious at to why a "sludge" remover might be needed. Might be you can look into the use of something like RID-X. There are a couple of threads about this.
 
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MrsE88

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It is fine to use pond marketed products on tanks as long as none of the fish are too sensitive for the ingredients in it.

I personally wouldn’t use any algae killers though. There are better ways to combat algae that won’t risk killing fish.

And I don’t see a reason for using the sludge destroyer either. In a pond it makes sense, because not everyone has a vacuum or can reach to vacuum the bottom.
But in a tank you syphon debris out during water changes and that doesn’t leave anything behind that would require an “aid” to break it down. The point is to clean it out so it doesn’t break down in the tank.

Do you have a test kit? What are your water readings?
The scales popping out is not good. Sounds like dropsy. Any pictures of the effected fish?
 

duanes

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Why use algaecide? Do you have green water?
Algae always grow on glass, so scraping it off is the only true way of getting rid of it.


And why all the Zymes, starts and stuff together?
A dechlorinator is really all you need for water changes, and pond dechlorintor also works in tanks.
 
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kevvang08

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It is fine to use pond marketed products on tanks as long as none of the fish are too sensitive for the ingredients in it.

I personally wouldn’t use any algae killers though. There are better ways to combat algae that won’t risk killing fish.

And I don’t see a reason for using the sludge destroyer either. In a pond it makes sense, because not everyone has a vacuum or can reach to vacuum the bottom.
But in a tank you syphon debris out during water changes and that doesn’t leave anything behind that would require an “aid” to break it down. The point is to clean it out so it doesn’t break down in the tank.

Do you have a test kit? What are your water readings?
The scales popping out is not good. Sounds like dropsy. Any pictures of the effected fish?
The ammonia is like .25 and nitrate is 5.0
 

kevvang08

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Sep 18, 2018
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Why use algaecide? Do you have green water?
Algae always grow on glass, so scraping it off is the only true way of getting rid of it.


And why all the Zymes, starts and stuff together?
A dechlorinator is really all you need for water changes, and pond dechlorintor also works in tanks.
So which one would be better?
 

MrsE88

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Looking at the api stress coat it doesn’t say it treats for ammonia. You’ll want a water conditioner that treats chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia.
Prime and safe are two popular choices around here. They are the same product, one is a liquid easier to use for small aquariums and the other is a concentrated powder great for treating big tanks. The powder is also a lot cheaper then buying the liquid when you compare how much water it treats.
I wish I would have known this from the start of my fish keeping hobby. I wasted a lot of money using api products on my pond.

You’ll also want to figure out why you have ammonia in your tank.
Mind giving some details about your tank and your regular maintenance schedule?
 

kevvang08

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Sep 18, 2018
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Looking at the api stress coat it doesn’t say it treats for ammonia. You’ll want a water conditioner that treats chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia.
Prime and safe are two popular choices around here. They are the same product, one is a liquid easier to use for small aquariums and the other is a concentrated powder great for treating big tanks. The powder is also a lot cheaper then buying the liquid when you compare how much water it treats.
I wish I would have known this from the start of my fish keeping hobby. I wasted a lot of money using api products on my pond.

You’ll also want to figure out why you have ammonia in your tank.
Mind giving some details about your tank and your regular maintenance schedule?
So your saying I'm just wasting money on API products?And I should buy other products
 

MrsE88

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So your saying I'm just wasting money on API products?And I should buy other products
Not exactly. I’m saying you’ll need a different water conditioner to treat ammonia. I’m not sure if your ammonia reading is due to your source water or because of a different issue going on. But either way you need something to bind the ammonia so it doesnt harm your fish.

I’m not knocking api products, but if you read their label it leads you to believe you need to add a bunch of products Every water change. This is not true when you have a cycled tank. By adding a bunch of products you don’t need that’s when it becomes a waste of money.
The only thing you need to add at each water change is a water conditioner that treats chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia.
The stress coat, stress zyme, and quick start aren’t necessary.

Those products work fine, but aren’t needed every water change is what I mean.
The quick start is something you’d use while cycling your tank. But isn’t needed once it’s cycled.
The stress coat is only needed if there is a reason for it. I personally only add it to water when selling fish that have a long ride ahead of them. But even then it isn’t really necessary. I just use it because I still have some on hand.

I’m not saying this to frustrate you, or make you feel like you’re doing everything wrong.
I just remember when I first started out and I was under the impression that a bunch of products were needed to keep clean healthy water. But I was still having problems regularly and that was endlessly frustrating.
Once I understood the cycling process, how to control algae with lighting and snails, ect. Things are easier, simpler, and only one product is needed for regular use.

But now I’m just rambling.... I’ll stop.
 
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skjl47

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my water tank is still cloudy and it fish scales looks weird like it popping
A dechlorinator is really all you need for water changes, and pond dechlorintor also works in tanks
ammonia is like .25[/B] and nitrate is 5.0
figure out why you have ammonia in your tank
some details about your tank and your regular maintenance schedule
Hello; A cloudy tank with ammonia and sick fish. The use of a number of chemicals ( perhaps either too many or not the right sort of chemicals).

More basic information needed. It would be nice if you can write a fairly detailed list of details about the tank. How big. How long set up. Water parameters. Stocking. Feeding schedule. WC details and more.
 
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