Repairing 8x33x33. advice required

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THUNDERCAT

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 11, 2011
19
1
3
Australia
I have taken upon the task of repairing a 8 foot aquarium. I picked it up fairly cheap and got it home. Upon the initial fill it started to leak from the front seam. I emptied the tank and cut away the front bottom brace. I re-siliconed the front bottom brace in place and let planned to let it sit for a few days for the silicone to completley cure.
while I was fixing the tank I had it sitting in our warehouse on a buch of styrofoam box lids.
A few days later I was busy, working away in the shop when at about lunch time I heard a massive crash. I immediatley ran out the back to find about of 1500L of water pouring all over the warehouse floor.
My brother had decided it would be a great idea to fill the tank to test my repair job. He didnt bother to take it off the styro lids and put it on a flat surface tho. It turnedout that one of the lids was thicker than the others and created a high spot, when the tanks was full the weight of the water bowed the glass over the high spot and it broke.
The only thing he had to say for himself was:
"Well at least the seam of fixed didnt leak..."
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So onto the repair of the tank:
To buy a new sheet of 12mm glass to fix the base would cost me more than I paid for the tank so I am hoping to use a different method.
I have fixed many smaller tnaks before with cracked bases. In these tanks I have simply siliconed a piece of glass over the crack. This method has never failed me before.
On hand I have a bunch of 12mm glass that is about 500x800. I am hoping to use the above method with a a few panels of glass.
The other idea i have is to completley remove the shattered base and replace the base with a series of panells with glass stripping siliconed over the joins.
This method origionally souned crazy to me but I have two 4x2x2's, one 6x2x2 and a 7x18x18 that were made form the factory this way. They are all still holding water.
The only downside to the second method is that I think I will have to take appart the whole tank which I really want to avoid. The advantage of the first method is I think I can get away with not having to take the tank appart.
I will post some basic diagrams of the two methods I have attempted to explain.

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That should work I have a 5.5 x 2.5 x 3H tank that had a chiped side when we moved it , we used two 2x3 12mm pieces to patch the side and it has held for a good 3 years now. but I am sure someone here will know better.
 
I would just replace the bottom entirely. With that kind of damage, I wouldn't count on that bottom pane to hold anything.
 
The mind is a terrible thing to waste.
 
First, get a new brother. You can probably get a good price for him on craigslist. Second, i wouldn't risk trying to silicone peices of glass over that. i would just replace the bottom entierely. you said you had a bunch of peices of 12mm glass, You can possibly remove the old bottom, and make up the bottom with a couple different peices of the glass you have. High end tank builders like Elos make their large tank bottoms with multiple panes of glass, siliconed together so the bottom has some flex to it, so if the surface the tank was on was un-even the silicone seams can flex and compensate for that, or else the tank would explode like yours did. If you decide to go that route, make sure to use a good quality silicone like dow corning.
 
Hi jake, thanks for your input. Do you think its possible to repair the bottom completley without taking the tank appart. Not to sure if you can get dow in Australia but ill look into it. I have always used sellys, wich I think is an Aussie brand.
 
You dont need to take the tank apart, just cut the bottom off. which shouldn't be hard since its in 100 peices lol
 
The mind is a terrible thing to waste.

A mind is a terrible thing to TASTE.

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