8 of them over time. I just got the pike and pleco recently. I was running a strictly bio filter (cascade 300) but i removed it.
L-52, fin rot or something else?
- Thread starter TheNewSeverum
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why was the cascade filter removed? i would have kept it on if it held a lot of bio media with a bacterial colony just beginning in it (IMO all media is bio media - bacteria don't care what the surface/material is, as long as they can attach to it) was the cascade removal when you put the aquaclear 110 on the tank? was all the aquaclear media brand new?
8 danios definitely would not be equal to the bioload of two plecos and a pike. like i mentioned, treat your tanknow as if it was brand new, with fish in there cycling it. daily water changes in the 50 to 75% range if your ammonia readings are anything but zero. get some Prime dechlorinator if you don't have any already - it's awesome stuff!
8 danios definitely would not be equal to the bioload of two plecos and a pike. like i mentioned, treat your tanknow as if it was brand new, with fish in there cycling it. daily water changes in the 50 to 75% range if your ammonia readings are anything but zero. get some Prime dechlorinator if you don't have any already - it's awesome stuff!
I didnt have the proper lid, the one I have only fits one filter not two, so it looked stupid so I removed it. The media aside from the biomax and the peat soil was new.
I am using stress coat and ph down to treat my water.
I am using stress coat and ph down to treat my water.
i personally would never mess with ph. most fish acclimate to whatever ph you have just fine, and unless you are trying to recreate wild conditions for breeding, then messing with ph is an unnecessary thing to do. my tapwater has a ph of 7.8/7.9 and i don't do anything to change it before adding water to a tank, nor do i have anything in my tanks to change ph deliberately. one tank does have a large piece of mopani wood, but it doesn't change the ph at all - that tank is at 7.8 consistently. i've had bristlenose plecos and perugia livebearers breed just fine in my tanks with no ph adjustments at all.
i actually prefer running hobs without the lids - makes for much easier and faster access should i have to pull out or add to the media. plus, no lid rattle noise! lol.
i actually prefer running hobs without the lids - makes for much easier and faster access should i have to pull out or add to the media. plus, no lid rattle noise! lol.
My pH is 8.6+ out of the tap. I am trying to lower it as whenever I did a W/C the fish would die. Since I use pH down there hasn't been an issue.
Did a 75% W/C today.. lets see how it plays out.
I did however to some math--
75% W/C x 7 days a week = 525% 1 week = 5.25 times - 21 times a month
25% W/C x 7 days a week = 175% 1 week = 1.75 times - 7 times a month
All in all, basically if you are doing 75 daily. over a months time you changed all of the water in the aquarium 21 times over. Verse doing 25 a day where you only do it 7 times over.
I personally (Call me stupid its fine) dont see how changing 100% of the water 21 times over in a month is benefital. What about all the bacteria in the gravel and everything, changing that much of the water must be getting rid of that, then leaving only the filters bacteria, of which, dont they need ammonia to survive?
I did however to some math--
75% W/C x 7 days a week = 525% 1 week = 5.25 times - 21 times a month
25% W/C x 7 days a week = 175% 1 week = 1.75 times - 7 times a month
All in all, basically if you are doing 75 daily. over a months time you changed all of the water in the aquarium 21 times over. Verse doing 25 a day where you only do it 7 times over.
I personally (Call me stupid its fine) dont see how changing 100% of the water 21 times over in a month is benefital. What about all the bacteria in the gravel and everything, changing that much of the water must be getting rid of that, then leaving only the filters bacteria, of which, dont they need ammonia to survive?
changing the water frequently and in large amounts when there is ammonia or nitrite present in the tank is what keeps your fish healthy and happy. ammonia poisoning isn't pretty, and nitrite can affect the blood - essentially blood poisoning.
changing water on a regular and consistent basis in a cycled tank keeps the water parameters in check - nitrates, TDS (total dissolved solids), and DOC (dissolved organic compounds). these three things are what can cause a tank to go downhill in the absence of maintenance, not just nitrates as some people think.
the only thing you do when you remove old water is remove the food source for the bacteria, not the bacteria itself. the bacteria stay attached to surfaces and are not floating around in the water at all. when you have fish in the tank, they are constantly creating more ammonia, so the amount of ammonia you are removing during that water change will be replaced soon enough by the fishes waste, and the bacteria won't be long without 'food'.
you can do a water change without doing a gravel vacuuming, if there isn't much mulm in your gravel. gravel vacs are meant to get rid of all the decomposing crud in the gravel, so that it doesn't foul the water or become a 'nitrate factory' (lots of mulm buildup causes increased ammonia, which in turn causes more beneficial bacteria to be produced, which in turn causes an increased end result of nitrate) <-- the bacteria will only populate enough to handle the amount of ammonia being created in a tank, so you see where i'm going with the excess mulm talk, eh? keeping your filters clean of excess mulm buildup is also good to avoid this 'nitrate factory' problem.
changing water on a regular and consistent basis in a cycled tank keeps the water parameters in check - nitrates, TDS (total dissolved solids), and DOC (dissolved organic compounds). these three things are what can cause a tank to go downhill in the absence of maintenance, not just nitrates as some people think.
the only thing you do when you remove old water is remove the food source for the bacteria, not the bacteria itself. the bacteria stay attached to surfaces and are not floating around in the water at all. when you have fish in the tank, they are constantly creating more ammonia, so the amount of ammonia you are removing during that water change will be replaced soon enough by the fishes waste, and the bacteria won't be long without 'food'.
you can do a water change without doing a gravel vacuuming, if there isn't much mulm in your gravel. gravel vacs are meant to get rid of all the decomposing crud in the gravel, so that it doesn't foul the water or become a 'nitrate factory' (lots of mulm buildup causes increased ammonia, which in turn causes more beneficial bacteria to be produced, which in turn causes an increased end result of nitrate) <-- the bacteria will only populate enough to handle the amount of ammonia being created in a tank, so you see where i'm going with the excess mulm talk, eh? keeping your filters clean of excess mulm buildup is also good to avoid this 'nitrate factory' problem.
Yeah I understand now.
But is it really necessary to do 75% every day? Or could I get away with once a week? School starts monday, I have class every single day so doing it every day isnt going to work for me, once a week honestly seems more reasonable.
But is it really necessary to do 75% every day? Or could I get away with once a week? School starts monday, I have class every single day so doing it every day isnt going to work for me, once a week honestly seems more reasonable.
while your tank is cycling, you do need to do those daily water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrite at or as close to zero as possible (at zero is preferable and healthiest and safest for your fish). Dosing Prime for dechlorinator helps greatly with keeping the ammonia and nitrite converted/detoxified, but it only protects against this for about 24 hours, so you do need to do that daily water change and re-dose of Prime to keep your fish safe.
i suggest 75% water changes because that will effectively remove a majority of the ammonia (now), and nitrite (later, when it spikes). think of the math - if your ammonia is at 1 ppm for example, you do a 75% water change, that brings the ammonia down to 0.25% <-- we've removed 75% of the old water and 75% of the ammonia. Dosing Prime will convert that remaining 0.25% of ammonia into ammonium, which is safe for fish, until your next water change the next day, when your ammonia will have crept up higher than 0.25 ppm due to the fish creating waste.
once your tank is cycled, your water change schedule can be once a week, or even a bit less often if your tank is stocked on the light side and you have ample filtration.
i suggest 75% water changes because that will effectively remove a majority of the ammonia (now), and nitrite (later, when it spikes). think of the math - if your ammonia is at 1 ppm for example, you do a 75% water change, that brings the ammonia down to 0.25% <-- we've removed 75% of the old water and 75% of the ammonia. Dosing Prime will convert that remaining 0.25% of ammonia into ammonium, which is safe for fish, until your next water change the next day, when your ammonia will have crept up higher than 0.25 ppm due to the fish creating waste.
once your tank is cycled, your water change schedule can be once a week, or even a bit less often if your tank is stocked on the light side and you have ample filtration.
Yeah I understand now.
But is it really necessary to do 75% every day? Or could I get away with once a week? School starts monday, I have class every single day so doing it every day isnt going to work for me, once a week honestly seems more reasonable.
no one is telling you to do it every day forever just until you get your tank cycled properly
