I am setting up a drip system for automatic water changes. My water contains chloramines, so I am installing chloramine carbon block filters from The Filter Guys. With chloramine carbon filtration, there is a residual byproduct of ammonia. Will this be an issue? The Filter Guys didn't think so as residual chloramine ammonia is low. What do you guys think? Anyone have experience with this?
Residual ammonia from chloramine carbon filtration and a drip system
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Chloramine added by a water supplier in the US, is generally between 1-2 ppm (where I worked 1.2-1.5 ppm was the norm). The ratio for chloramine, is usually 5 (chlorine)-1(ammonia). If you have a healthy biological filtration system going, 0.3ppm NH3 should easily be neutralized by your beneficial bacteria in a slow drip system.
When I add water, it goes to my sump or overflows first, to buffer anything from temp changes, to super saturated oxygen (gas embolism cause), to chloramine just as a precaution.
When I add water, it goes to my sump or overflows first, to buffer anything from temp changes, to super saturated oxygen (gas embolism cause), to chloramine just as a precaution.
Thanks, guys! That is what I figured, but wasn't sure. I'll just have to test and see what happens.
Please update cuz my water have chlorimine too and I want to do a drip system too....btw which filter did you buy from the filter guy and how much? Thanks
I do not have a drip system and my tap water is treated with chloramine, and would do 30% water changes using calcium thiosulfate to neutralize chlorine.
I would test for ammonia soon after using the salicylate method, read on a spectrophotometer. A sample taken directly after a water change of 50 to 70 gallons would read 0.02ppm NH3, the results from the next day would usually read<0.01ppm .
Above is a next day test, on the left is a 0.00ppm DI water blank, in the middle a known 2ppm control, right aquarium water
I would test for ammonia soon after using the salicylate method, read on a spectrophotometer. A sample taken directly after a water change of 50 to 70 gallons would read 0.02ppm NH3, the results from the next day would usually read<0.01ppm .
Above is a next day test, on the left is a 0.00ppm DI water blank, in the middle a known 2ppm control, right aquarium water
I will update this.
My filter setup is a 100 gallon per day RO filter plumbed into my kitchen faucet. This system is used for drinking water and configured as follows...
Stage one: NSF RATED 5 MICRON POLY SEDIMENT FILTER
Stage two: NSF RATED 1 MICRON POLY SEDIMENT FILTER
Stage three: CHLORAMINE MASTER NH2CL STAGE 2 CARBON BLOCK
Stage four: CHLORAMINE MASTER NH2CL STAGE 3 CARBON BLOCK
Stage five: 100 gal per day RO membrane
Storage tank
Stage six: IN-LINE 10 GAC SIX STAGE CARBON FILTER (used to polish water for taste)
Since we don't want to use RO water for our fresh water tanks, I am going to tap into the system between stage four and stage five. I have good pressure so there should be plenty to drive the drip system and still make RO water for drinking / cooking.
Jim from The Filter Guys was very helpful and answered all my questions. Below are the filters I purchased from them. (Note: I already had this configuration but the filters are from another vendor)
$3.00 - NSF RATED 5 MICRON POLY SEDIMENT FILTER - http://thefilterguys.biz/filters.htm
$34.00 - CARBON BLOCK CHLORAMINE PACKAGE - http://thefilterguys.biz/chloramine_filters.htm
I will be putting a drip on my 125 after I finish this one. Due to location of the tank, I will have to purchase a separate filter system for the 125. I will be getting their: THREE STAGE CHLORINE FILTRATION CARBON BLOCK DRIP SYSTEM - http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_systems.htm