Is this strong enough to support 220g?

[littlewangzfan]

6' x 2' footprint. My concern is the front. I've left a 4 ft opening in the center just in case I want to setup another tank or sump under it. Its 1 1/2" square pipe all around except the horizontal and center vertical supports in the front w/c is 1" x 2". Thanks.
View attachment 803119

 

[skjl47]

Hello; A 220 gallon might weigh as much as 2600 pounds or even more. That is about a small car. The stand looks quite strong. I see what looks like a Lincon DC welder in the picture and this suggests the stand is square tube steel. Cannot tell about the weld penetration from the pics, but if the welds clean up and look good that should not be an issue. While I might consider adding some cross bracing (triangular bracing) to help prevent racking to the side, this may not really be necessary. Perhaps some triangle shaped plates in a few corners if they will not interfere with other aspects of the stand. Perhaps some shelving braces or such.
Stand looks good and I am impressed. You may want to confirm that the top is true with no humps to focus a stress on small points of the tank. My guess is that it will be stout enough but barring a test of some sort I do not guess there is any way to know for sure.

 

[Gill Blue]

if you're really concerned with the gap, put in a center support, but instead of welding it in place, weld tabs to it and the stand for bolts or pins to keep it stationary.

 

[littlewangzfan]

Hello; A 220 gallon might weigh as much as 2600 pounds or even more. That is about a small car. The stand looks quite strong. I see what looks like a Lincon DC welder in the picture and this suggests the stand is square tube steel. Cannot tell about the weld penetration from the pics, but if the welds clean up and look good that should not be an issue. While I might consider adding some cross bracing (triangular bracing) to help prevent racking to the side, this may not really be necessary. Perhaps some triangle shaped plates in a few corners if they will not interfere with other aspects of the stand. Perhaps some shelving braces or such.
Stand looks good and I am impressed. You may want to confirm that the top is true with no humps to focus a stress on small points of the tank. My guess is that it will be stout enough but barring a test of some sort I do not guess there is any way to know for sure.

Thanks skjl47, you are correct It's a Lincoln welder. I used 6011 rods and I am not a certified welder I just learned from experience. I think the fusion (not sure what it's called lol) is good enough to hold it together. I will lay a 3/4" ply on top of it then styro because the tank has no plastic rims. Anyway, here's a close up of the weld. What do you think?

 

[littlewangzfan]

if you're really concerned with the gap, put in a center support, but instead of welding it in place, weld tabs to it and the stand for bolts or pins to keep it stationary.

Thanks Gill Blue. I will keep that in mind, I like the idea that I can easily remove it if necessary.

 

[skjl47]

Hello; Weld pictured appears fine . I imagine that you know to coat the welds with a rusty metal primer or some sort of coating to control rust.

 

[uglygun]

As others have said, gussets might be a good idea. Being that it's steel you would probably only need a small right triangle in the extreme corners of the stand to solve any issues that may arise. I just know that since I live in California, I'd be taking that precaution in earthquake territory.

As for wanting to put in a sump under the stand. Have you considered leaving yourself an access door at one of the ends? If it is a 6ft x 2ft foot print, you've got quite a bit of room for putting a pair of doors on the front and having a door on the left or right side. Then you can slide your sump in from the side(while empty) and still have your center brace if you choose to have it.

I just built a wood stand for my 120 that is going to house a 55 gallon aquarium for the sump underneath it. No way to get it in through the front due to the center brace and the two doors. Solution was to put a door at the end of the stand so I can slide the 55 gallon in from the left side. It also gives me one additional port of access to get to fittings on the sump or to have room for storage for supplies.

 

[littlewangzfan]

Hello; Weld pictured appears fine . I imagine that you know to coat the welds with a rusty metal primer or some sort of coating to control rust.

Thanks. Will do.

As others have said, gussets might be a good idea. Being that it's steel you would probably only need a small right triangle in the extreme corners of the stand to solve any issues that may arise. I just know that since I live in California, I'd be taking that precaution in earthquake territory.

As for wanting to put in a sump under the stand. Have you considered leaving yourself an access door at one of the ends? If it is a 6ft x 2ft foot print, you've got quite a bit of room for putting a pair of doors on the front and having a door on the left or right side. Then you can slide your sump in from the side(while empty) and still have your center brace if you choose to have it.

I just built a wood stand for my 120 that is going to house a 55 gallon aquarium for the sump underneath it. No way to get it in through the front due to the center brace and the two doors. Solution was to put a door at the end of the stand so I can slide the 55 gallon in from the left side. It also gives me one additional port of access to get to fittings on the sump or to have room for storage for supplies.

Thanks. Good idea, why didn't I think of that? lol.