Omega One vs NLS

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Piranha are opportunistic generalist feeders, like most species of fish.

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=83

While they will eat meat when prey is available, there's absolutely no nutritional reason why they would require tilapia, shrimp, or anything else in their diet if a quality pellet is fed. With most of the more carnivorous species of fish, often feeding them live, or even fresh/frozen meat can trigger more aggression when kept in a glass box, not less as you suggested.

Again, there's certainly nothing wrong with feeding additional foods/supplements to your fish, even live foods if that's what you prefer to do, but from a nutritional stand point for most species of fish being kept in captivity it's usually not necessary.

Really cause tilapia and shrimp make my p's less nippy and aggressive, that why I supplement once a week, I never said a pellet couldn't sustain a fish, I'm all about pellets but a once a week serving of flesh for my shoal is perfect, just speaking from experience.





I think variety is more productive if certain guidelines are followed


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Joe, I actually agree with much of what you just said. I have also never once stated that fish processing waste is low in nutrients. My main issue has always been how that company has presented the so called facts.
I personally find that type of marketing, insulting, and misleading.

All raw ingredients are processed before and/or during the manufacturing process. Omega's food doesn't just magically go from raw to nice clean little pellets & flakes, so unless you are privy to their exact inclusion rates, and their manufacturing process (including temps & durations used) you really have no idea which food contains better biological nutrient value or digestibility at post processing levels.

Let me give you an example. When I look at an Omega label I can't help but wonder how is it possible for them to be using processing plant waste, which I know has a very high mineral content from scales & bones (ash), yet their total ash content is listed as only a max of 8%? In my mind, and according to how they have things listed, there is only a couple of ways to push those protein numbers down (below 50% crude protein), which also pushes the overall ash content down, and that is by using a hefty amount of carbs, such as the ingredients that tend to follow all of their fish mixes - wheat flour, and in some formulas kelp. (kelp is also very high in carbs) Yet this same company condemns not only the use of fish meal, but also the use of "a whole lot of starch (like everyone else)". Or they are listing their 'fresh fish waste" on an as-is wet basis, which would also throw their entire ingredient listings off, if one is comparing it against the vast majority of other foods that list everything on a dry weight basis.

I honestly have no idea what is going on behind the scenes, but in my mind 1+1 isn't adding up to 2.

I view ingredients, percentages, etc by using both an analytical approach, and a common sense approach. If things don't make sense, there's usually a reason.

Yes, the mineral content from bones is a good thing, but only to a certain level. High ash levels in fish food generally equates to inexpensive and/or low quality fish protein containing high amounts of bones and scales. (high in inorganic material) Your fish will utilize some of that mineral content, and the rest just adds pollution to your tank.

There is also nothing wrong with adding kelp to a commercial formula, but again, only at certain levels. If too much kelp is added to a fishes diet in captivity the food will move too swiftly through the digestion system before all of the nutrients can be gleaned from the food. In the wild this is not a problem as most cichlids that are classified as strict herbivores eat from sun up to sun down in order to acquire enough nutrition to live & breed another day. I'm guessing that the vast majority of cichlid keepers feed their fish once, maybe twice, and at the most 3 times a day.
This is not how these fish feed in nature, and the moment that one places these fish in a glass cage everything changes, including how one should go about supplying optimum nutrient levels to their fish.

I told Pablo years ago that if he created a "herbivore" pellet (with large inclusion rates of seaweed, kelp, spirulina etc, he could make millions, and he agreed, but he wouldn't do it as he knew that in captivity this is not the way to provide optimum nutrient levels to a herbivore. To me that speaks volumes about the integrity of the man behind the food.

Others look at nothing much beyond numbers, and if there's a golden opportunity to meet a supply & demand situation, they will supply what the consumer wants, even if that consumer is uninformed & confused by the massive amount of propaganda and misinformation that has been perpetuated for many years in this industry.

Using this same type of feeding in captivity logic, the vast majority of hobbyists will tell you that one needs to supply wood to plecos such as panaques or they will die. Die? Really? I have been telling people for years that panaques don't eat wood for it's nutrient value, or for digestibility, they eat it as a secondary action when scaping the biofilm on the wood. Just recently there is now science to back that up.

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co....ome_catfish_really_eat_wood?&utm_content=html



This is no different than your herbivorous Mbuna that scape the algae & biofilm in the wild. Also note the last line, about a very fast gut passage time.

Exactly what I was stating earlier with regards to feeding certain foods in captivity; "If too much kelp is added to a fishes diet in captivity the food will move too swiftly through the digestion system before all of the nutrients can be gleaned from the food."



In the wild, the cichlids found in the Rift Lakes have evolved & adapted to living in certain niches of the lake, which over time has forced them to become specialized feeders. (as per Ad Konings) Yet all of these specialized feeders will readily eat anything that's available. (as per Ad Konings) While a fish classified as a strict herbivore (such as a Tropheus moorii) may indeed spend its entire day scraping the aufwuchs, I can assure you that they would much rather eat a handful of worms if given the opportunity. In the wild they eat low quality foods because that's the only foods available, not because they choose to.

And while certain species such as Tropheus & various Mbuna may in fact be classified by the scientific community as strict herbivores, the reality is that even though algae dominates the stomach contents, the actual foods that make them grow are insect nymphs and larvae, crustaceans, snails, mites, micro-organisms, and zoo plankton, not vegetable matter. (as per Ad Konings)

Their long digestive tracts are designed as such so that in nature they can break down the complex plant matter that they consume, which doesn't mean that they can't properly assimilate more easily digestible forms of protein. Apparently this is a concept that some hobbyists fail to grasp.


Keep in mind that the vast majority of fish are opportunistic feeders, and are all omnivorous to a certain extent. Cichlids classified as carnivores don't just eat meat, any more than a herbivorous cichlid just consumes vegetable matter.

I look at it this way, all wild fish are opportunistic feeders, and will eat pretty much anything that comes their way, and while herbivores may in fact consume large amounts of plant matter, and carnivores may in fact eat large amounts of fish based foods, that plant matter generally contains certain amounts of nymphs, larvae, crustaceans, snails, mites, micro-organisms, and zoo plankton, and the smaller fish that the larger carnivores consume are typically gut loaded with phytoplankton (which consists of microscopic plants), so in actuality all of the Rift Lakes cichlids consume the same types of protein, fats, carbs, etc, just in varying degrees.

If you really feel the need to supplement your herbivores diet in captivity, or are concerned about gastrointestinal issues caused by whatever, my advice would be to crank up your lights & allow a nice algae bed to form on your rocks. If nothing else it will allow you to witness their natural grazing/feeding behaviour, and at the same time keep some of the more aggressive fish occupied on something other than other fish. :)

Herbivores don't only eat plant matter. Look up the definition of herbivore note the keyword 'PRIMARILY'

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Herbivores don't only eat plant matter. Look up the definition of herbivore note the keyword 'PRIMARILY'

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Are you arguing his point or trying to summarize what he just said?

I think It's funny when people say "Well my fish have been blah blah blah and they're fine" in order to justify their shortfalls in fishkeeping such as providing a poor diet even though they may think It's better. Imo for pellets the quality of products would be hikari and omega one mid pack with nls pulling way ahead with regards to nutrition and well-rounded health. The ingredients list for hikari in my opinion is lacking yet overpriced, it seems as omega one is trying to provide decent food but still doesn't get it right and uses loaded words in their ingredients list and on their website. Nls has better ingredients, It's just a better food, and you may argue it is costly, but why buy nice fish when you don't feed them nice foods? Remember, you are actually getting what you pay for with nls.
It is a harder food to get fish to eat, but that is because it is dense with nutrition and not light with fillers. Just feed smaller pellet sizes and that shouldn't be a problem.
I'm not biased towards nls, I just want to feed my fish the best supplemented diet I can give them.


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F1 ........ if that works for you, then that's all that really matters. :)



my fish take omega one much better and i much prefer the short ingredient list with whole fish that omega one has.

I agree that some fish will take to some foods better than others, there's no question about that. Having said that, I have yet to own a fish that I couldn't train to eat whatever I choose for it. It's kinda like raising kids. I don't allow children to choose their meals, anymore than I would allow one of my fish to. :)
 
mr. bigglesworth ....... I completely agree, and I believe I even said that previously. :)

Keep in mind that the vast majority of fish are opportunistic feeders, and are all omnivorous to a certain extent. Cichlids classified as carnivores don't just eat meat, any more than a herbivorous cichlid just consumes vegetable matter.
 
I know, old thread, even older argument, but can't resist adding my 2 cents:

For a certain % of those participating in these discussions it becomes something like a Ford vs. Chevy or Miller vs. Bud debate where personal opinion overrules objectivity. For an additional number, they're stating what they've been convinced of either through similar debates and discussions or personal experience of either one or the other product, but not objective experience with both. In some such cases, whichever food they now prefer won them over because it proved better than previous products, but they haven't directly put them up against one another in an objective test (I believe Neil also made this point earlier in the thread.).

I have tested Omega One vs. NLS directly in controlled and extensive tests (as well as other foods). Side by side tanks, same water, filtration and maintenance, split spawns of same species, from fry to adulthood to the next generation of fry, etc. Color, growth, long term health, etc. and I'll put it this way: I'm not going to argue that one is significantly superior to the other.

Here's the possibility that's nearly always overlooked when I read these debates and where I often see way too many blanket statements: different types of fish can have different specific optimal nutritional profiles and respond differently to a particular food. And I've seen this in personal experience and testing with NLS vs. Omega One (btw not all Omega One products are equal, some are better than others). Certain of my fish do get hotter color with NLS (my rotkeil severums, for example). Others get equal color from either food and certain fish actually do better overall on Omega One in my testing. Some produce more waste on NLS (haps and peacocks ime), others not at all.

Will moorish idols thrive on NLS and die on most other foods? Great, that tells me NLS is good for moorish idols, but doesn't necessarily tell me much about what may be equally viable choices-- or even the best choice-- for my particular species. Did this or that particular fish prefer Omega One over NLS or vice versa, or look or grow better on one than the other? Based on my testing, and unlike what some tend to do in such discussions, I wouldn't dismiss a report either way-- assuming they come from an experienced and reasonably objective fellow hobbyist (unless it directly contradicted what I've seen in my tanks with the same species), but neither would I extrapolate or accept from that (as some do) an argument implying that such an experience, which may be perfectly valid for that tank or species, proves once and for all that Brand A is superior to Brand B.

I don't really have one side or another in the NLS vs. Omega One debate. In my experience they're both good products, in terms of the results I've seen for myself over the years, and whether one is better or not may depend partly on what kind of fish you have. In other words, results can vary. If the proof is in the results I just haven't seen proof in my own objective testing, or years of experience with both, that one is clearly or always superior, no matter what kind of fish. And, after quite a few years, now, this also includes health and longevity (for which it's not just about the food, water characteristics and quality also play a significant role).

What I do think is people should consider the possibility that there isn't a definitive, 100%, infallible cosmic truth to be determined here, or one that precludes someone else's opinion or experience as having it's own measure of validity. Just my 2 cents...
 
LOL, good to see you, neutrino, and welcome to MFK. :) Not sure if I care to even carry on with these debates any longer, but for what it's worth I agree with you. Especially the following:
Here's the possibility that's nearly always overlooked when I read these debates and where I often see way too many blanket statements: different types of fish can have different specific optimal nutritional profiles and respond differently to a particular food.

While this is very true, I don't know of too many species of fish that do overly well on large quantities of starch, especially starch derived from terrestrial plant matter - which IMHO is one of the largest problems within the fish food industry. While I will admit to not using many of the Omega products in recent years, the ones that I have used had what I would personaly consider to be a rather hefty amount of starch, according to what came out the other end of my fish via long trailing turds. It reminded me of what happens when a dog eats the same type of food. As I recall you have always been fond of their shrimp pellets, but that is one of their product line that I have never used. The most recent Omega food that I used was the Marine formula. But here's the thing, I can't say that I have ever had a poor result such as I did with the Omega products, with any species of fish when feeding NLS. Different results, certainly, but poor results? Never. Not with growth, not with color, not with overall health, or overall longevity.

Perhaps the Omega products that I have tested in recent years were some of their less than better products? :)
 
Hi Neil,

Well, I didn't really jump into this discussion to weigh in one which of these foods is better, don't have the energy. :grinno:

Like you, I've seen many (maybe too many, not that the subject doesn't still interest me as a facet of the hobby) of these type of debates and, basically, I have a very short list of products from among those I've used and tested that have given me clearly better results than other popular foods. So while I'm still willing to tinker or try out a new product or learn something new, after all this time I'm not in the position of trying to determine what I should feed, what will work for my fish, which is best, etc.

I agree that NLS is one of the best, on the (very) short list of products I'm willing to use or recommend. I don't really have a problem with those who believe it's the best, though after objectively and pretty extensively attempting it, I haven't been able to prove that to myself. What moved me to comment on this thread is reflecting on how often in these discussions I've seen people say regarding NLS or Omega One that one or the other was much better in their experience (I've seen something similar with one or two other products), so I thought I'd add an observation based on using both for some years that, while most of my fish have done equally well on either of them, some of my fish did look better on one or the other. So, possibly this accounts for some of the disparate opinions I've seen. IME with these foods, keeping primarily SA and African cichlids, many (or most) of my fish have looked and fared well on either or both of them. Only with a select few species have I seen a difference in color on one or the other (example: I'd tell anyone that I've seen noticeably better color with my rotkeil severums from NLS, meanwhile my Kapampa fronts have done very well on Omega One Shrimp pellets and/or Color pellets, not to say they haven't done well on NLS).

As far as terrestrial foods for aquatic animals, whether beef heart, soy, obviously unnecessary starches (or mystery starches), or various grains (beyond what might be needed as a binder), I prefer to mostly avoid them. There are certain exceptions imo, recognizing that many fish feed on terrestrial or semi-aquatic insects and the fact that quite a few Amazon fish include various terrestrial seeds, nuts, or fruits in their natural diet.
 
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