Help with breeding Guinacara

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I didn't notice any excessive lip locking with mine, but the other Guianacara in the tank seemed to keep my male busy.
The only lip locking was when another male tried to move in on the female.
 
Ok thanks. Well I have re introduced the male with the female and again they show signs of spawning with circling,and she acts like she is making a bed in the sand but then the aggression sets in with the excessive lip locking and when they get wore out with that back to the circling so I am assuming this is spawning behavior. So I wll keep a close eye on them. How long before you see eggs? And should I separate the male after I see eggs?
duanes said:
I didn't notice any excessive lip locking with mine, but the other Guianacara in the tank seemed to keep my male busy.
The only lip locking was when another male tried to move in on the female.
Click to expand...
 
With this latest spawn, I have not seen eggs, they appear to be on a vertically placed stone opposite the front glass. Only sign of a spawn, is they guard the area very aggressively, and appear to be fanning the vertical standing rock.
With their 1st spawn, they were put on the inside area of an algae covered piece of wood, and because they are green, very hard to see. The area was so small the female could barely get in between the crotch in the wood.
 
Well, we have green eggs, which I hear that means they have been fertilized and was wondering if I should now separate the male? Is there anything I need to do now or just wait til they hatch? What do I feed wrigglers? Thanks for any info.
duanes said:
With this latest spawn, I have not seen eggs, they appear to be on a vertically placed stone opposite the front glass. Only sign of a spawn, is they guard the area very aggressively, and appear to be fanning the vertical standing rock.
With their 1st spawn, they were put on the inside area of an algae covered piece of wood, and because they are green, very hard to see. The area was so small the female could barely get in between the crotch in the wood.
Click to expand...
 
You do not feed the wrigglers, they are using food in their yolk sack, but as soon as they are free swimming you will need to provide food. I use newly hatched brine shrimp, that I hatch from eggs.

eggs above, newly hatched artemia below

I like to use a turkey baster or pipette to shoot the food into the school of fry.

There are commercial fry foods available, but I have never used them, so I can't voice an opinion.
If the male becomes abusive, he should be removed.
 
How long do the eggs take to hatch? will frozen baby shrimp work to feed them?
duanes said:
You do not feed the wrigglers, they are using food in their yolk sack, but as soon as they are free swimming you will need to provide food. I use newly hatched brine shrimp, that I hatch from eggs.

eggs above, newly hatched artemia below

I like to use a turkey baster or pipette to shoot the food into the school of fry.

There are commercial fry foods available, but I have never used them, so I can't voice an opinion.
If the male becomes abusive, he should be removed.
Click to expand...
 
I now have wrigglers. I was told that fine crushed flake food will be fine to feed them when they become free swimming is that right? Also should I wait for a while before I do a water change or just stay on my normal w/c routine?
 
It takes about 24 hours for artemia to hatch, I usually start a batch after the wrigglers are seen. Although some wrigglers stages last longer than others.
I have never used frozen.
As far as water changes, I simply follow my normal routine, but my tanks are in a line on sumps (including fry tanks), new water is added to sumps first, as opposed to directly into main tanks. But properly dechlorinated, and temp matched, water changes should not be a problem.
 
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