How to do a large water change?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I'd switch round 3 and 4 personally. Also when treating an aquarium in this manner (water added to aquarium untreated) you have to add enough water ager to treat the body of water not just the changed amount, so thats enough for 1300 gal in your case. Pool hoses are invaluable for their ability to drain water quickly.
 
Nova 8 said:
I'd switch round 3 and 4 personally. Also when treating an aquarium in this manner (water added to aquarium untreated) you have to add enough water ager to treat the body of water not just the changed amount, so thats enough for 1300 gal in your case. Pool hoses are invaluable for their ability to drain water quickly.
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I can drain 80% of the tank in 20 minutes. :)
 
aldiaz33 said:
I would follow the instructions on the conditioner you are using.

I use Seachem Safe and the directions state:

"May be added to aquarium directly, but is better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. If temperature is > 30 C (86 F) cut dosing in half."

I dose based on the volume of my tank and add water...I've been doing it this way for years without any problems.

Seachem Safe is the powdered version of Prime; it's pretty concentrated and will save you a lot of money over liquid water conditioners. IIRC, 1 KG treats 200,000 gallons and it only costs about $30. If you aren't using it I would look into it.

What are you keeping in the pond? Are you trying to maintain tropical temps?
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Thanks on the heads up for Seachem Safe. I just bought 1kg on amazon.com for $25. :)
 
And don't forget to look into a drip setup. Water changes are going to get old real fast with that amount of water.

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justarn said:
wouldnt bother with the clorine remover unless your keeping delicate fish tbh...
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Reckless advice. If I didn't bother with water conditioner, I would have a tank full of dead fish after a large scale water change.

Taken from the following site EPA site: http://www.epa.gov/region9/water/chloramine.html

Chloramines, like chlorine, are toxic to fish and amphibians at levels used for drinking water. Unlike chlorine, chloramines do not rapidly dissipate on standing. Neither do they dissipate by boiling. Fish owners must neutralize or remove chloramines from water used in aquariums or ponds. Treatment products are readily available at aquarium supply stores
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I know that there are some people that think the recommendation to use water conditioner is a scam, but I know first hand the results of not conditioning water and know people who have lost an entire tank for not treating tap.

Maxime said:
Thanks on the heads up for Seachem Safe. I just bought 1kg on amazon.com for $25. :)
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:thumbsup:

For those of you running drip systems, is your water treated with Chlorine or Chloramine?

I have heard that chlorine isn't a problem for most drip systems because it will burn off quickly enough, but chloramine is much more stable (that's why a lot of water treatment plants are starting to move away from using chlorine and instead using chloramine- see link above). My concern is that the chloramine would build up and harm the fish. I wouldn't be comfortable setting up a drip unless I also had some sort of automated doser of conditioner. (My tap is treated with chloramine).
 
I think it's funny you got such a large tank but don't know how to do a water change. Im calling for pictures, is this a pool?

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