450 gallon disappointment lol

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Ya I could see from the pics what you were talking about. Looks like an alright setup just tape it up well and you get it water tight as long as you have all the right fittings to get it.


Psylant said:
I may just end up sealing the overflow return holes if I can't get it to work without leaking. Our setups are a bit different but I appreciate the pics. My hose from the pump comes up from behind my tank, not through the bottom or back of the tank.

It's difficult to explain the problem without showing someone first hand. The difficulty lies in the fact that there are 2 return holes drilled already, with a set distance between them. This makes connecting the two holes with a piece of straight pipe/hose with a tee very difficult given how small the space is to do so.
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Sent from Note 2 mini computer
 
Psylant said:
This is very important since it's leaking without the pump running. More pressure = spraying = wet floor and surrounding area. It's also bad that since it leaks without the pump on, water from my tank goes down the overflow even when the water is below the overflow level. This will eventually cause a flood if the power were to stay off long enough.
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You said this is the return line from the sump leaking. How does the hose leak when the pump is off doesn't make any sense.. You said it was just a tiny drip not a spray. Why would a the leak in the hose that drips back into the overflow cause a flood if the power goes off. You have the two outlets on the overflow box fixed with bulkheads. You have one side of the T hard piped with the other side a hose. Why not make both sides of the T with a fixable hose so its not so hard to fit a piece of hose between the two hard fittings.
 
MyGiants said:
You said this is the return line from the sump leaking. How does the hose leak when the pump is off doesn't make any sense.. You said it was just a tiny drip not a spray. Why would a the leak in the hose that drips back into the overflow cause a flood if the power goes off. You have the two outlets on the overflow box fixed with bulkheads. You have one side of the T hard piped with the other side a hose. Why not make both sides of the T with a fixable hose so its not so hard to fit a piece of hose between the two hard fittings.
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Maybe there's a misunderstanding here... The pump in the sump is returning water through a hose into my overflow which has holes drilled in the sides that returns to the tank. It is a tiny drip when the pump is off (the water flows in from the output spray bar and sits in the hose connected to the tee). If the pump is on the system becomes pressurized and forces the water through the hose, making the small leak, a good sized spray. A leak that that drips into the overflow will drain the tank to the top of the spray bar eventually which is a couple inches under the surface. 2-3 inches of water in a tank this size is a lot of water. This could overflow the sump. Granted, it would take a long time but the winters here can be nasty and being without power for 12+ hours isn't unheard of.

Adding hose into the other side of the tee would make the issue much worse. Then both piece of hose would be much shorter and I would also need 2 more hose to PVC adapters. I don't think there's even enough space for the 4 required adapters, let alone hose. That adds more parts, and compounds my problem.
 
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Is your overflow box still leaking? I thought you fixed this...

I don't understand your concern for a flood with your return pipe leaking inside the box.
You could easily put a lid over the top of the opening so any spray would just fall back into the box. What you have there now looks to be above the stand pipe so I don't see how a leak is going to cause a flood. The only way it can cause a flood if your stand pipe is leaking at the bottom where its fitted to the bulkhead.

I think you could simplify everything by removing the X pieces add barb fittings to the other side. Make the hoses longer on each side of the T. Why does the T fitting need to be in the confines of the overflow box.
This way you could put the T fitting down by the pump and run two separate hoses to the outlets..

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MyGiants said:
View attachment 947833
Is your overflow box still leaking? I thought you fixed this...

I don't understand your concern for a flood with your return pipe leaking inside the box.
You could easily put a lid over the top of the opening so any spray would just fall back into the box. What you have there now looks to be above the stand pipe so I don't see how a leak is going to cause a flood. The only way it can cause a flood if your stand pipe is leaking at the bottom where its fitted to the bulkhead.

I think you could simplify everything by removing the X pieces add barb fittings to the other side. Make the hoses longer on each side of the T. Why does the T fitting need to be in the confines of the overflow box.
This way you could put the T fitting down by the pump and run two separate hoses to the outlets..
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The far left X and far right X are glued to the bulkhead by the previous owner as stated saying they are fixed in place from the very start of this discussion. They cannot be moved without sawing it all off and ordering more bulkheads. The tee in the sump idea would possibly work except I ordered this pond hose online and it took forever to get to me. I don't have enough hose to run another line from the sump up. I think I have 3' extra and I need 5'.

I'm not sure how you're not understanding how it could cause a flood at this point. Did you read my previous explanation to you? The overflow box is not leaking. I did seal that up. The water is coming through the spray bar, in through the bulkhead, filling that hose and connections with water. They're not on tight enough. They leak. If they're tightened (obvious solution) then the hose+adapters is too short. They're all As you stated, the standpipes are below the tee, far below the water line since the tee needs to fit above where the pipes are. It's not the best design, and this is part of the price I pay for getting something used.
 
MyGiants said:
How is water escaping the tank from the leak? I guess I just don't see what your talking about I don't see a big problem here..

I gave you some suggestions you have an answer for it all. Well you figure it out good luck
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I didn't mean to sound rude but I'm not sure how much more simple I can make the explanation. Thanks for trying.
 
I got another question for you guys. I got a pvc to garden hose adapter for my water changing system that leaks a bit. The unit is made of pvc and hooks onto the side of the tank, and has a pump that attaches to the end in the tank, and garden hose on the other end to run to a drain. That way I can safely drain my tank to whatever level I adjust the pvc hook to, and fill it through the same system after by attaching it to the faucet. The adapter is made of brass and snugly screws onto the pvc, but it leaks at the part where it swivels. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to correct it? There's a washer on each side of the brass adapter.

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Sounds like you are having nothing but problems with the old plumbing to the sump so If you want to do it right then start from scratch! Take all the old pipe out,put new bulkheads in and do it right so it doesn't leak. Plumbing is the cheapest part of setting up a tank. I spent less the $300 to plumb my 520 gallon. You are just going to have problems down the road if you don't start out with new parts. When your tank is full of water and fish and things start leaking and you have no back up tank then that's when you are screwed.
 
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