How quickly can I raise my PH/GH/KH?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
M

mikeross

Exodon
MFK Member
Nov 12, 2012
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vancouver
So decided to setup a 33 gal in the meantime until my big tank is up and running. The tank is currently cycled now and have added a saulosi colony, 2 tropheous and 1 large VC10. I never planned to have this many fish in the tank but the deals came up locally and I jumped to acquire fish on my current stock list. They are all doing well and seem happy... Saulosi already spawning but no females holding yet. Another 2 weeks and most of these fish will be moved to a 6ft tank. Anyways I have been waiting on my test kits and finally arrived last night. I tested my water and got a...

ph of 7.5(have lots of holey rock in the tank)
ammonia 0
nitate 0
nitrites 40ppm
GH 1
KH 2.5

So I decided to do a large water change and buffer the water to raise the PH/GH/KH. I did a 50% water change and added the buffer mix at 1/3rd the called for ratios. I did not want to raise the levels up to quickly. I waited an hour and retested...

ph of 8.0

ammonia 0
nitate 0
nitrites 10-20ppm
GH 3
KH 5

I am aiming for a GH10, KH10 for my african cichlids. How quickly should I try and raise these numbers? I added about 1/3 of the buffer recipe today, planned to add another 1/3 tomorrow, and another 1/3 on the 3rd day in hopes to reach my levels.

Am I raising my PH/KH/GH to quickly? Fish seemed to love the big water change and added buffers.
 
hardness levels are not as dangerous to fish as the actual PH. The two do go hand in hand the dissolved minerals in the water help to buff the PH so you don't have big swings in the PH levels. So really as long as the PH is maintained there is no real reason to rush raising the hardness.
Just add a little each day and test until the levels you want are reached.
 
BIG-G said:
hardness levels are not as dangerous to fish as the actual PH.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find it is actually the other way around. pH swings/variances happen naturally for various reasons, but the mineral content/conductivity of the water affects how fish osmoregulate and rapid jumps is more likely to harm the fish than moving pH (provided extremes are avoided).

This is a good read, explains a bit about it; http://www.tbas1.com/Exchange/The New England 11.pdf
 
I have hard water so I filter it. The water is going to be what it is going to be. I have always through it was harder on the fish to adjust the ph every time you do a water change. Than to just let it be off by some all of the time. it must be easier with smaller tanks. It can take 4 hours to fill my big tank back up after a 50% water change.
 
^ bingo. Pre-treating/dosing water for a 6' tank shouldn't be too much trouble, could easily be done in a 220L plastic barrel. Using crushed shell in the filter or substrate, and/or aragonite substrate, and/or limestone rocks in the tank will reduce the need to dose the water, but you may still need to bump up the KH.
 
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