Tricky reseal of 240gallon +customer stand

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Lauren Deadly

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Aug 6, 2013
138
0
0
Orange County
Hey guys,

I've got a question on the reseal of my 240g. It's a used tank in pretty good condition, my boss (owns a lfs) gave it to me so I somewhat trust my source. However, and this is a big however, it was sitting on the side of his house for some time. I'm unsure how long or if it was in direct sunlight (I don't believe it was since it was on the North side of the house.) There weren't any scratches and it actually looks to be in pretty good shape and the original silicone still looked in pretty good shape.

We did a reseal of the tank by scraping off the old silicone on the bottom and sides with a razor blade, cleaned it really well with rubbing alcohol, and put down a new fresh bead of GE Silicone I. The bead we did was pretty darn thick as well. Here's my concern; there has been some debate as to whether or not this is a solid reseal of the tank. My boss basically explained how the important sealing it actually on the inside of the glass where they connect and the inside stuff, while helpful, is not going to do much as far as holding it together. Every resealing I've ever done or been aware of has just been the method we have done, but this will be our first 240gallon. And even though the tank looks to be in pretty good shape actually, I want to treat it as though the silicone was done because it was sitting outside not temperature controlled so the fluctuations could mess with the elasticity of it.

If this was just in a basement or garage, I'd say screw it and take our chances; but this is in our living room, so I need to be extra careful and go over the top. We do a lot of DYI projects so I'd like to think we know what we're doing, but I really need your guys' second opinions and hear your experiences. Is there another way we could secure it as well? Doesn't have to be pretty.

20140127_120005.jpeg
Here's a photo I just took, it still needs a little more cleaning and finishing touches. I want to clean up the silicone a little bit in some spots. There is also a fairly wide center piece of glass attached at the top. We also built the stand ourselves, has 8 4x4 and a number of 2x4s we used douglas fur this time and added a side door (on left, kind of hard to see) so we could easily put in the 80g sump we just built. Still haven't picked our our door handles yet.

20140127_120005.jpeg
 
your boss is correct that the most holding power comes from the silicone between the glass the bead on the inside mainly just seals the tank.
This is a tricky question because without actually seeing the quality of the silicone it is difficult to judge if the tank will stay together.
You could test fill the tank somewhere safe so if it leaked it wouldn't damage anything.
Let it set for a few days, if it holds your probably okay.

If you were really concerned, you could go ahead and dismantle the tank completely and rebuild with fresh silicone. Thats probably what I would do. Thats a lot of water to have in your living space to have a seam let go in the middle of the night. Been there and done that. Had a 150 salt tank let go one night what a nightmare!

OR, You could get some strips of glass and silicone them to the outside of the tank over all the seams. Its not pretty but it will secure the tank.
 
One more thing, If you fill the tank slowly, you can watch the silicone between the glass as the water puts pressure on the seams If it starts to look white or sort of opaque from the stress it means its losing its grip on the glass you should stop filling.
 
If you do decide to disassemble the tank, don't use GE silicone 1 to reassemble it. GE is fine for sealing, but does not have enough strength to hold a tank like that together. Look for Momentive RTV100 series from a place like Grainger. Momentive RTV100 is vastly stronger in every respect (sheer, tear, and adhesive strength) and is used by aquarium manufacturers. I used RTV103 (the 3 signifies black) to build my 220 and was very happy with the product.

BTW, nice work on the stand.
 
your boss is correct that the most holding power comes from the silicone between the glass the bead on the inside mainly just seals the tank.
This is a tricky question because without actually seeing the quality of the silicone it is difficult to judge if the tank will stay together.
You could test fill the tank somewhere safe so if it leaked it wouldn't damage anything.
Let it set for a few days, if it holds your probably okay.

If you were really concerned, you could go ahead and dismantle the tank completely and rebuild with fresh silicone. Thats probably what I would do. Thats a lot of water to have in your living space to have a seam let go in the middle of the night. Been there and done that. Had a 150 salt tank let go one night what a nightmare!

OR, You could get some strips of glass and silicone them to the outside of the tank over all the seams. Its not pretty but it will secure the tank.

I've let it set for close to 2 weeks now, mostly just waiting for the caps to plug the holes that were drilled into the back. Don't think we'll need those for our sump since we have two overflows. I don't think I'm comfortable enough to pull the whole tank apart, especially since I don't have the right equipment to do it properly with. But I like your idea of securing it with some extra glass. I'd rather have an ugly, but sturdy tank; than no tank and a flooded apartment. Could you tell me how exactly I would go about adding the glass to the outside? And would I really be in the clear if it held water for a couple days? Like it would be pretty obvious if the silicone was eroded on the inside and would happen in a couple months? I'm definitely planning on letting it sit with some water for a few days.

If you do decide to disassemble the tank, don't use GE silicone 1 to reassemble it. GE is fine for sealing, but does not have enough strength to hold a tank like that together. Look for Momentive RTV100 series from a place like Grainger. Momentive RTV100 is vastly stronger in every respect (sheer, tear, and adhesive strength) and is used by aquarium manufacturers. I used RTV103 (the 3 signifies black) to build my 220 and was very happy with the product.

BTW, nice work on the stand.

I wanted to used Momentive honestly, but we couldn't find it and since I had heard good things about GE Silicone I and I have used this product in the past I figured it was probably fine. Too many people have used it to for me to not consider it. My fears are making me want to make the guys scrape everything off and reseal it, but I'm pretty sure they'll hate me if I do that unnecessarily. Got to find balance between being a nervous nelly and taking proper precautions haha.

Thank you guys for getting back to me, I really appreciate it. Sorry for the lag, came down with pneumonia it wasn't fun.
 
you can also put plate glass across the top of the tank, my 180 has glass plate on each end and one in the middle. still plenty of room for the HoB,s and tubing, wires,
 
you bet. will help with bowing or prevent it and prevent uneven pull away from the joints. any flexing of the glass a bad thing for your glass seals.
 
you bet. will help with bowing or prevent it and prevent uneven pull away from the joints. any flexing of the glass a bad thing for your glass seals.

sounds good, thanks! Thanks on both threads actually haha! I finally found a moment to sit down on the computer and found myself having another question when I went to check up on this thread. :)
 
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