A couple tank specific questions

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I meant what did ur tank cost no ur stock...just curious what u paid for a tank made in those thicknesses.

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Turnover rates are somewhat irrelevant....u can run 20x through the wrong filter set up and accomplish absolutly nothing. Sometimes slower rates are more beneficial. water volume also plays a big part. More water = less turnover necessary. Imo its easier to maintain a 1700gal with 1xturnover than a 10-100gal with any amount of turnover. Throwing a bigger pump on a set up doesnt always make it magically better.

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looks like we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one. high flo on a bio filtration system leaves water toxins unprocessed, for the mech higher turn over is better to remove particulates not process water chemistry. again, combo of both is the way to go.
 
looks like we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one. high flo on a bio filtration system leaves water toxins unprocessed, for the mech higher turn over is better to remove particulates not process water chemistry. again, combo of both is the way to go.

Ill agree to disagree but i think were on the same page lol...my only point was people think more gph will magically make their tank better/cleaner but as you stated it can work against u if theres too much flow over the bio so same difference :).

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Well tank was 1800 used with the stand and sump, transportation and misc expenses made it a total of 2250, then sold my old 180 same day for 750, so 1500 the way I see it. I'm happy with it, though I am dreading moving it. He said it cost over 6000 new. Anyway here are the pics, let me know what you think, should I be concerned? Don't see these expanding much at all, then again if it's slow it may be hard to tell, I'll mark them and monitor. What can I do to help myself out if it is something I should be looking into, and any indication of what I can expect in the future? Sorry for sideways cellphone pics

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Seams look good to me. 1/2" is fine for a 24" tall tank. I wouldn't really worry too much about it. If the tank has been running as built for a period of time, I don't see any reason why it would suddenly become an issue. JMO
 
Thank you for your opinion. I tend to agree with you, does anyone strongly disagree?
 
The seams look solid to me; a few bubbles and a little crazing is very common (normal) in acrylic tanks. It's when the seams have a cloudy/milky look that you should start to be concerned and even when that happens, in my experience it's much more probable that a slow leak would develop versus a sudden catastrophic failure (although this is not out of the realm of possibility).

1/2" for the sides of a 24" tall tank is pretty standard, although I agree with Wednesday in that the top being made out of only 1/4" isn't ideal. If you examine your seams for issues and the radiused opennings for the start of cracks every few weeks you should be able to catch any problems before they become a real issue. But everyone with a tank in their home should be doing this; I would try not to lose any sleep over it...you should be ok. This is coming from someone who has reocurring nightmares of their tank exploding in the middle of the night! :ROFL:

If you find that it continues to bother you, you'll have to decide what your peace of mind is worth. You could have a tank built with a huge safety margin (say 1" acrylic all around for your dimensions), but the cost would be sky high.
 
I appreciate the reply. Not losing the most sleep over it, and I have been examining the seams regularly. When you say catch any problems, just so I have an idea, what sort of fix can I expect to have to make to fix the seems?
 
Wednesday is the pro repairman here, but here's the process as I understand it:

1. Empty the tank and thoroughly dry.
2. Purchase acrylic square stock (1/2" should work well) to reinforce the weak seam.
3. Clean seam with isopropyl alcohol and let dry.
4. Tip tank on seam to be welded and pour Weld-on 40 into the joint to "weld' the square stock to reinforce the seam.
5. Repeat on all seams that need to be repaired.

I think in some cases you can just use the Weld-on 40 and skip the square stock, but the stock definitely adds strength.
 
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