Well I definitely want to make sure it is safe before I go ahead, so someone correct me if I am not understanding this properly, but I don't think depth (front to back) makes a difference in calculating glass thickness, at least it is not listed as a factor in any of the calculators I used from the stickies. My 150g is 48"x24"x31", so the new tanks foot print is like four of those tanks. But not all the pressure is concentrated on the front glass - it is distributed around the 16ft perimeter of solid plywood as well. I think height is the biggest factor in water pressure, rather than depth.
700 gallon build and fishroom revamp
- Thread starter Quo Vadis
- Start date
The tank is in my basement and will be sitting on solid poured concrete floor. However, the floor slopes a lot to the drain so I am going to lay a base of self leveling cement under where than tank will go. How thick should I make this so it does not crack from the weight of the water? Also, seems really basic, but any suggestions on the best way arrange the cement blocks for the "stand" and how many to use? I'll be busy with work for a few days, but then the work can start in earnest.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8zB86g7Icx1bUY3bktHNDFJUC1LMjdZV2FjUUplZ2lVTl93/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8zB86g7Icx1NGtqTFZKdGF3dEkwQ0NqM3FQa0xQeDhBVzIw/view?usp=sharing
Lets see if this will work. Let me know what you think! Top one is a picture I drew of what the front of the tank and the exact measurements will be, bottom one is a cross section of how the front will be braced, but is not perfectly on scale. If people think it is necessary I will use 2x4s to brace instead of 1x4s.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8zB86g7Icx1NGtqTFZKdGF3dEkwQ0NqM3FQa0xQeDhBVzIw/view?usp=sharing
Lets see if this will work. Let me know what you think! Top one is a picture I drew of what the front of the tank and the exact measurements will be, bottom one is a cross section of how the front will be braced, but is not perfectly on scale. If people think it is necessary I will use 2x4s to brace instead of 1x4s.
I used to think this was true as well, but someone pointed out that I was incorrect.
Check it out: http://scubageek.com/articles/wwwparad.html
Here's a thread with some interesting discussion about Hydrostatic Pressure Calculations: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...Pressure-Calculation-(Pressure-on-tank-walls)
At first I thought you were pointing out that I was wrong and I was worried I wouldn't be able to use my glass safely, but as I actually read the links I see they are confirming my understanding! Thanks for posting, gives me some peace of mind that my calculations are sound. All the glass thickness calculators I used said 1/2 inch glass used the way I described would be safe, but everytime I posted it on here there would be people who thought it was too thin.
Anyone have comments on the pictures of the plans I posted?
Having recently worked with self levelling cement, keep in mind:
1. It costs a fortune
2. It will not level perfectly
3. Follow the directions, rent a mixing drill, have all materials and tools ready, and work quickly
4. Time to full cure is usually 28 days - this will yield the most strength
6. Seal the bottom of your forms well, it will escape wherever it finds a hole
Since you will have a higher lip where the cement pad meets the normal slope of the floor, plan ways to decorate or hide it.
If you can, I would suggest mixing normal cement and levelling it out yourself. Same end result, lots more working time, way cheaper.
