700 gallon build and fishroom revamp

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
appak said:
Having recently worked with self levelling cement, keep in mind:

1. It costs a fortune
2. It will not level perfectly
3. Follow the directions, rent a mixing drill, have all materials and tools ready, and work quickly
4. Time to full cure is usually 28 days - this will yield the most strength
6. Seal the bottom of your forms well, it will escape wherever it finds a hole

Since you will have a higher lip where the cement pad meets the normal slope of the floor, plan ways to decorate or hide it.

If you can, I would suggest mixing normal cement and levelling it out yourself. Same end result, lots more working time, way cheaper.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, thanks! I did not realize those things... I was under the impression it was very easy to use (just mix with water I thought?), and it is one of the only things I hadn't checked prices on yet because I (wrongly) assumed it would be pretty cheap. Also never would have guess it takes so long to cure - I don't want to wait that long because I have a lot less for work in January, so I want to get most or all of the tank done fast. I guess I don't really want to mess with mixing up normal concrete in the basement. Any other suggestions for the best way to make sure the tank it level, that don't involve cement?

I would need something strong enough to hold that kind of weight, and dramatic enough to raise one side of the tank probably at least two inches.
 
Quo Vadis said:
Hmmm, thanks! I did not realize those things... I was under the impression it was very easy to use (just mix with water I thought?), and it is one of the only things I hadn't checked prices on yet because I (wrongly) assumed it would be pretty cheap. Also never would have guess it takes so long to cure - I don't want to wait that long because I have a lot less for work in January, so I want to get most or all of the tank done fast. I guess I don't really want to mess with mixing up normal concrete in the basement. Any other suggestions for the best way to make sure the tank it level, that don't involve cement?

I would need something strong enough to hold that kind of weight, and dramatic enough to raise one side of the tank probably at least two inches.
Click to expand...

I mean, don't let me discourage you :) some kind of cement product is probably your best bet. 38 days is the full cure time but it is dry and walkable way before that, usually after a day. The longer it hardens the stronger it becomes, though.

It was about 45$ a bag here, normal concrete is like 3$ a bag.
 
Well after doing more research I think you are right. Self leveling cement will not be worth the hassle. Anyone else have any ideas? To exacerbate the problem the area the tank will be be is not level in both directions, lengthwise and depthwise. Any ideas???
 
I would honestly make a form and pour normal concrete. Easy to work with really, and easy to level too. Then you can either tile over the top, or colour the concrete, or paint it, etc. But I've done it a million times, so... :P

I would have just done the above but since I had such a small footprint, and I wanted to try out self levelling anyways, I gave it a shot.

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Hmm, ok. How long does normal concrete take to fully cure? My main issue is I don't have cement mixing equipment so I would have to buy all that stuff, or else I am not sure how I would mix and pour it. How thick would I have to make it in the thinnest area to make sure it wouldn't crack under the weight? How would you make sure it was level?
 
Same amount of time to full cure. Even if you do self levelling you still need tools to mix and smooth it. Maybe tool rental is an option so you don't end up buying a ton of stuff.

To level it you use a float. Normally I mark level lines on the inside of the form, and smooth roughly to the lines. Then use a big float to level it out, and a long level to verify as you go.

If this sounds like too much or you're not sure if you can do it, or you might have to remove it later, then a less permanent solution would be better. ;)

You're doing a block stand? Maybe patio stones under the low section to beef it up slightly, or block caps?


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appak said:
Same amount of time to full cure. Even if you do self levelling you still need tools to mix and smooth it. Maybe tool rental is an option so you don't end up buying a ton of stuff.

To level it you use a float. Normally I mark level lines on the inside of the form, and smooth roughly to the lines. Then use a big float to level it out, and a long level to verify as you go.

If this sounds like too much or you're not sure if you can do it, or you might have to remove it later, then a less permanent solution would be better. ;)

You're doing a block stand? Maybe patio stones under the low section to beef it up slightly, or block caps?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Click to expand...

Thanks! I posted another thread about leveling it, because although I feel fairly confident in the carpentry aspect of the tank I have never worked with concrete before, and the more I think about it I don't know if it would be good to do, since it would be so hard to undo a mistake, and when we sell the house eventually there would be a big raised cement slab in the middle of the basement... I don't know if that could effect home value?

I was thinking of patio blocks as an idea actually... I just wouldn't want them to crack. What are block caps?
 
I have decided to try first to level the stand using patio blocks under the cement blocks to account for the difference, and see if I can get it level that way. Woudl wood (like 1x4/6 or 2x4/6 be worth using?

Also does anyone know how to figure out the psi cement blocks are capable of holding so that I can figure out how few blocks I can use (for a 96"x48"x35" tank)? The less I use the easier it will be to level... If I do this I will make a reinforced "platform" so the speak that sits on top of the cement blocks.
 
Well I have made a decent amount progress:
-Resealed my 120g to use as a holding tank for the fish that will end up in the big tank
-Built a stand for the 120g
-Built a stand for my 155g and took down and moved my 155g
-Took down my 72g and 75g
- Bought all the supplies for the big tank

so... Now I should be able to start the actual building of the tank!

But in a turn of events the tank will now be 86" x48" instead of 96" because I was unable to fit a whole sheet of 48"x96" plywood around the corner to get down into my basement. So the tank will only be 600g :( so now I need to decide what to do for the glass... It's seems like a shame to cut 6 inches off each of my 48" panes of glass, especially since with what is hidden by the frames the opening for the glass will probably now be only 36" for each of the two panels. Still thinking through my options on that issue. Considering leaving them 48" but putting on pane of the glass on the 48" side of the tank. Any other ideas?
 
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