How to build an acrylic tank?

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Aimara
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Feb 23, 2016
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Done some searching for a new tank on Craigslist, lfs didn't bother calling back on the price of tank I'm interested in so I might have to build my own. I've found a supplier for 8' X 4' (1/2") $333, so I guess around 3 sheets of need?

First to start off, tank size I'm looking to do is 96" X 30" X 24" (half in with full top brace should work?) or a 96" X 30" X 30" (would need to go (3/4"?)

Now here's the catch, never done projects like this so I will need help/advice. If I end up building I will try a smaller tank, 20 gallons, and or acting welding it together.

No here's the main question I have considering steps to building

1/2" I guess i just do the wik method like Joey had?

3/4" I suppose I have to use the pin method

Now with both of these I would need a level surface to build on, while performing the either two methods, what can I do to avoid bubbles..

Final question for the welding is the some weldon I should avoid? And is there a certain temp it has to be to cure properly?

Thanks
 
Make sure what you were quoted was cell cast acrylic. I've heard that you will get bad results if it's not.

Hopefully Wednesday will check in. I've seen him in some other threads and the man knows his stuff with acrylic.
 
Fish Tank Travis said:
Make sure what you were quoted was cell cast acrylic. I've heard that you will get bad results if it's not.

Hopefully Wednesday will check in. I've seen him in some other threads and the man knows his stuff with acrylic.
Click to expand...
Yes the acrylic is cell cast, as the acrylic company also builds tanks
 
The method you choose is dependent on how you want your seams. You can do pin method with 1/2" acrylic as well. The benefits of the pin method is that you are melting the acrylic then dropping the other sheet into it. This will normally allow for better seams in the tank. If you do the wick method the weld on 4 will fill in any of the gaps and voids within the acrylic edge if it was not perfectly cut. This will melt the acrylic in contact but may be a less consistent melt if the cuts are poor. You can get away with more error on the pin method but it takes more time and can be more difficult. At 24" height full brace 1/2" is good. To avoid bubbles with wick method apply weldon 4 to the inside and to the outside of the edge. Make sure the cuts are good. For the pin method to avoid bubbles don't wait to long before removing the pins. At 30" height and 8' I would step up to 3/4". Ideal temperature for curing is I believe room temperature. Build the tank with weldon 4. You can fill the seams afterwards with Weldon 40 if you want. If there is a leak in a seam they suggest using Weldon 16 but if you do the 40 and pour it there will be no leaks and added strength.
 
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Lepisosteus said:
The method you choose is dependent on how you want your seams. You can do pin method with 1/2" acrylic as well. The benefits of the pin method is that you are melting the acrylic then dropping the other sheet into it. This will normally allow for better seams in the tank. If you do the wick method the weld on 4 will fill in any of the gaps and voids within the acrylic edge if it was not perfectly cut. This will melt the acrylic in contact but may be a less consistent melt if the cuts are poor. You can get away with more error on the pin method but it takes more time and can be more difficult. At 24" height full brace 1/2" is good. To avoid bubbles with wick method apply weldon 4 to the inside and to the outside of the edge. Make sure the cuts are good. For the pin method to avoid bubbles don't wait to long before removing the pins. At 30" height and 8' I would step up to 3/4". Ideal temperature for curing is I believe room temperature. Build the tank with weldon 4. You can fill the seams afterwards with Weldon 40 if you want. If there is a leak in a seam they suggest using Weldon 16 but if you do the 40 and pour it there will be no leaks and added strength.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the write out.. The cuts will be done by the acrylic company, then all I have to do is scrape down the edge so there is no saw marks?
Inside the current home there isn't much space, so I'll have to see if I can do it at my fathers friends warehouse
 
M@T!@$ said:
Thanks for the write out.. The cuts will be done by the acrylic company, then all I have to do is scrape down the edge so there is no saw marks?
Inside the current home there isn't much space, so I'll have to see if I can do it at my fathers friends warehouse
Click to expand...
Ask the company how they are cutting it, some of the new CNC cutters or water cutters don't require edge prep.
 
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