210g and sump set up, advice appreciated .

[pescado209]

so I finally got off my ass and finished my stand and floor supports for my 210g.

I ordered a jebao dcp1000 (2640 gph) pump and went out and bought some pvc fittings.

2 questions for you guys and gals

I couldn't find a 1" pvc gate valve at homedepot or lowes but did find a ball valve. am I better off ordeing a gate valve instead of using the ball valve.

second question , what size should I go with on the return line. pump comes with adapter sizes 3/4 to 1 1/4 ". I was thinking 1" simply because it's the middle size the pump can use . please advice

my sump set will be simple. HOB overflow with a aqualifter pump to keep the prime.
down to a 55g tank with a 4 x14 200micron filter sock using a tetra pond filter box with media bags stacked on top run by the dcp1000. and water pushed up 1" (maybe?) pvc pipe

please tell me what you think of my sump set up and fill free to give me you opinions

 

[esoxlucius]

Are you leaving your stand like that? Not wrapping it? Doors? Painting? With you filling it up I take it you are going bare bones. Just saying because sumps can be a little gluggy and splashy at times and if your partner is watching their favorite show on tele they'll soon let you know about it, believe me. Wrapping it will minimise any noise, plus aesthetically I think it looks better.

 

[Oughtsix]

I use a ball valve for overflow balancing without issue. It is just harder to tweak the flow by a tiny little bit than with a gate valve.

I did the whole HOB overflow route. After getting the courage up to drill a tank I will never go back to a HOB overflow. A drilled tank is just much less hassle in my opinion.

Filter socks are great. Four of them should give you a decent run time before needing to clean them. Even if reduced flow doesn't dictate needing to clean the filter bags I would recommend cleaning them once a month to remove the debris before it starts to break down.

I always put an air stone/wand under my bio media in the sump to oxygenate the water and provide the bacteria with plenty of oxygen.

A 1" return is what I would run in that configuration.

 

[pescado209]

Are you leaving your stand like that? Not wrapping it? Doors? Painting? With you filling it up I take it you are going bare bones. Just saying because sumps can be a little gluggy and splashy at times and if your partner is watching their favorite show on tele they'll soon let you know about it, believe me. Wrapping it will minimise any noise, plus aesthetically I think it looks better.

I'm going to use hardboard with wood lookalike vinyl planks glued on, board will be held on with velcro. maintenance Wil be easy being able to remove the whole from and side. first time using a sump so I'll figure out any noise issues as I go .

I use a ball valve for overflow balancing without issue. It is just harder to tweak the flow by a tiny little bit than with a gate valve.

I did the whole HOB overflow route. After getting the courage up to drill a tank I will never go back to a HOB overflow. A drilled tank is just much less hassle in my opinion.

Filter socks are great. Four of them should give you a decent run time before needing to clean them. Even if reduced flow doesn't dictate needing to clean the filter bags I would recommend cleaning them once a month to remove the debris before it starts to break down.

I always put an air stone/wand under my bio media in the sump to oxygenate the water and provide the bacteria with plenty of oxygen.

A 1" return is what I would run in that configuration.

I ordered a gate valve off amazon this morning and it was already delivered before I got home .. so that question kinda answered it's self lol.

I got 5 socks twith so it sounds like I'm off to a good start .

I got the HOB with the tank and I'm on a budget so I'm just gonna roll with it for now. I would have preferred to drill just do simplicity. plus I forgot to check for tempered glass before painting the back
I'll be running a one inch return thanks for the input .

 

[Cempa]

I'd go 1" as it is easier to find fittings and pipe opposed to 1 1/4". I'd also make sure to stick a valve on the return. This way you can easily adjust your flow to dial in your system. Trust me, it will make things a lot easier when you're trying to reduce the amount of gurgling etc. from your overflow.. I learnt this first hand... My system is now entirely silent after making countless vent holes in my durso pipe to the point it was swiss cheese (unnecessary, only needed 1 hole) when all it took in the end was a valve to adjust the flow..

nvm -misread, didn't realize it was hob overflow..

 

[pescado209]

finished the sump it's been running for about 2 -3 hours including testing for power loss situations.

im a firm believer in KISS...
keep it simple stupid.

I made a sock holder out of 3 inch pvc and a couple elbows. 5 bags of media on top on the tetra pond filter box and booom.. done.

only question I have .
I made the water "in" pipe right below sump water level into the sock making the system dead silent. my wave makers make more noise than the sump and pump running.
is there a reason, I can't think of any, why my inlet shouldn't be below water level?

 

[Cempa]

There's no issue with the inlet pipe from the tanking being under the water level in the sump. That's exactly how mine and others are setup for the same reason of keeping it quite and by creating a bit of back pressure to get a full siphon.

 

[pescado209]

thanks for the info, this is my first sump so I wanted to ask to make sure I didnt miss something.. thanks again.