Looks shimmed in the right way to me... i would fill in the entire gap with shims tho as many as it takes... the other posters way will work as well shimming under ur horizontal 2x6. will use less shims that way.
It's hard though because I was super paranoid about making sure everything was square while building the tank, and then using the level everywhere once it was put together. I don't think I could rebuild the stand any better than I have already done.I would bet that the top 2x6 isn’t true. When ever I buy any lumber I go through the pile usually half are bowed. Honestly I would take apart the stand and rebuild the top. You should never shim a tank only the bottom of the stand. As mentioned the bottom of the stand is off the seam can separate and bust the tank.
How long of a level were you useing? A 6’ level should show where the bow is. Just because it’s level doesn’t mean it’s true. Lumber is cheap. Acrylic tanks and floods, well you see where I’m going. At the end of the day it’s your choice.It's hard though because I was super paranoid about making sure everything was square while building the tank, and then using the level everywhere once it was put together. I don't think I could rebuild the stand any better than I have already done.
Just like styrofoam, I see conflicting suggestions all over the place of shimming only the bottom of the tank versus shimming between plywood and stand. Wednesday's response above is the perfect example.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the plywood is no longer bowing after I inserted the shims in my pictures.I don't see how the plywood bottom will bow under where the shims currently are. What's that gap between the shims, like "6-8"?
Can anyone get a 6-8" long 3/4" plywood to bend?
The questions were more for those who commented on you changing what you had already done, which was shim the plywood.Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the plywood is no longer bowing after I inserted the shims in my pictures.