What diseases normally show up during quarantine?

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FINWIN

Alligator Gar
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Dec 21, 2018
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In the next few weeks I will be purchasing buddy fish for my parrots. How long to quarantine and what normally shows up at say week two vs week four? I've seen all different lengths of time recommended for quarantine, everything from 2 to 12 weeks. That's a wide swing. :duh:
 
The main point in QT is to observe any off behavior, colors, appetite, odd growths, stringy poo etc... it’s a chance to isolate issues without external factors like stress from tank mates. Obviously keeping anything new away from your stock is the main goal to avoid spreading disease.

There is not a set time limit but in my experience anything less than two to three weeks is pointless. Especially if wild..
 
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Parasites are most common. Praziquantel (prazi pro) is my usual go to on day one

For example these guys took 8-10 weeks to bring to full health after a recent import this year. Full of internal and external parasites, clamped fins and a secondary fungal infection post med treatment. If these were from a store or person, people tend to QT for less time. I find that odd and pointless but it’s common.

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It can vary how long to qt but a 30day is what most hobbyists suggest but 2 months would be better.
 
It is not just to keep a disease hypothetically on the new fish, from your current stock, but also to get the new stock used to the bacterial conditions it will experience in the intended new tank.
Your current fish may be immune to certain bacteria in your tank, but the new fish may not have immunity or tolerance for.
In my quarantine tanks I add water gradually from the tank they are going into, to allow a gradual transition to those conditions.
I quarantine for 2 months or longer, longer if the the new fish show any sign of listlessness, or sign they are not in perfect health, while adding a little water daily from the tank they are to go into, until the entire water of the Q tank is turned over..
Diseases like ick, can take up to a month or 2 to present. A new fish might have 2 ick protozoa hidden under its gill plate, such a tiny amount you may not notice until the ick population has become obvious. The time in the Q tank will allow you to treat it before it infects all your other fish.
Bacterial diseases are the same, the stress of the move could allow a non-infectious dose to become infectious, and in the Q tank allow an expensive antibiotic to used in either food, or water treatment in small doses before it enters the main tank and becomes really costly in dollars, or dead stock.
I do not add meds to the Q tank, unless I know what it is I am treating for.
A friend of mine who runs an exhibit at a public aquarium, quarantines all new fish for no less than 6 months.
 
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I tend to quarantine and grow out at the same time so I buy fish in the fall and put them in the 90 for the winter. I don't medicate unless I observe a problem. Then they go into the 450 in late may and my classroom fish move into the qt for the summer . Lather, rinse and repeat
 
It is not just to keep a disease hypothetically on the new fish, from your current stock, but also to get the new stock used to the bacterial conditions it will experience in the intended new tank.
Your current fish may be immune to certain bacteria in your tank, but the new fish may not have immunity or tolerance for.
In my quarantine tanks I add water gradually from the tank they are going into, to allow a gradual transition to those conditions.
I quarantine for 2 months or longer, longer if the the new fish show any sign of listlessness, or sign they are not in perfect health, while adding a little water daily from the tank they are to go into, until the entire water of the Q tank is turned over..
Diseases like ick, can take up to a month or 2 to present. A new fish might have 2 ick protozoa hidden under its gill plate, such a tiny amount you may not notice until the ick population has become obvious. The time in the Q tank will allow you to treat it before it infects all your other fish.
Bacterial diseases are the same, the stress of the move could allow a non-infectious dose to become infectious, and in the Q tank allow an expensive antibiotic to used in either food, or water treatment in small doses before it enters the main tank and becomes really costly in dollars, or dead stock.
I do not add meds to the Q tank, unless I know what it is I am treating for.
A friend of mine who runs an exhibit at a public aquarium, quarantines all new fish for no less than 6 months.

Interesting! I never considered the bacteria acclimation angle...always assumed it was more a one way acclimation for the new fish.
 
I tend to quarantine and grow out at the same time so I buy fish in the fall and put them in the 90 for the winter. I don't medicate unless I observe a problem. Then they go into the 450 in late may and my classroom fish move into the qt for the summer . Lather, rinse and repeat

How has your overall success been? Any widespread issues develop in those months?
 
Not generally, I have losses but I don't necessarily attribute them to anything specific
 
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