What do you guys consider as an acceptable nitrate range for big cichlids?

[SwampFins]

I've been thinking about rehoming a few fish in my 125 to allow for more space and better water quality as some of the inhabitants have grown to their adult size.

what would be an acceptable Nitrate reading after the end of a week before doing a water change?

I just tested my water today after doing a 50% water change last night, and I got a reading of 10 -20ppm (somewhere in between). Seems pretty high to me for only 24 hours, no?

Anyhow, I will be trading in some fish soon but I wanted to get some opinions on what other big cichlid community tanks look like.

Cheers!

 

[Kvandy]

How often do you clean your filters and what’s your feeding schedule like? Have you tested your tap water?

 

[philipraposo1982]

I would say your overstocked. fulpl grown oscar is enough in a 125 to make a mess

 

[SwampFins]

I'm sure um pretty overstocked at the moment.

I used to have x2 55" gallon tanks and a 90 gallon and ended up consolidating everything into a single 125.

I traded in some fish at the time and ended up with a bunch of juvies but now it's time to make some room again.

For filtration I have a sump setup with a lot of ceramic media, 1 pound of K1 fluidized and a 1100gph pump. Currently doing a 50% water change once a week.

As far as the fish go, I have:

1 Oscar (7")
1 Red devil (3")
3 nicaraguense (6")
1 delhezi (8")
1 Senegal (5")
1 parrot fish (3.5")
3 firemouth (3.5")
1 convict (2.5")
2 bristlenose pleco (3")
3 giant danios (4")
1 Mayan (3")
1 rainbow shark (4")

That said, I will be rehoming some fish this weekend and keeping the following for the time being:

1 oscar
1 red devil
1 Mayan
1 delhezi
1 Senegal
1 parrot
3 Nicaraguan

 

[duanes]

My acceptable nitrate range goal is 2 to 5 ppm. To maintain that range in my tanks, in the U.S. I had to do a 30%-40% water change every other day.
The use of emergent plants like Pothos, and papyrus that consume nitrate in planted sumps also help, and the use of aquatic plant species whenever possible.

 

[Toiletcar]

I would also worry about aggression and keep an eye on the RD especially. Mayans can get pretty aggressive too.
Back to nitrates keep them low as possible like Duane’s range. It’s ideal. Do lots of water changes. Mayans and Oscars are very HITH prone so I’d be doing daily water changes.

 

[SwampFins]

That's a really good idea about the pothos in the sump. I will give that a try, I have plenty of it on my garden. Thank you!

I might test my tap water as well to see if maybe I have some Nitrates coming out of the pipe.

For aggression I'll definitely keep an eye out. So far I have never had any issues (knock on wood).

In the past I've been successful keeping aggressive communities under control by not having a single (big boss) or someone that can push everyone around on his own and offering limited hideouts. It seems like the openness makes it a little harder for them to claim a specific territory.

Of course nothing is ever guaranteed with these guys. And I'll be shifting their hierarchy today so that'll be interesting lol

 

[RD.]

My acceptable nitrate range goal is 2 to 5 ppm.

Ditto, but to maintain that level I have always taken a different approach, one where I limit the livestock to suit a very large weekly water change. (80-90%) I've typically always tried to set my tanks up with a long term management plan. The OP's approach is pretty much the exact opposite of how I would go about this. A 125 would make a good long term home for a single Oscar. And even then, one would need to stay on top of filtration cleaning and water changes. Pothos are a great idea, but nothing trumps water changes - removing nitrates is only part of the process, the other is adding back to your tank water, via fresh water & minerals. Good luck.

 

[Mr Pleco]

My tap water ranges from a 1.97 avg to almost 7 ppm in the spring. so i try to maintain a reading under 20 ppm... the tanks with auto drip systems are all around 10ppm .....

 

[duanes]

OP. even your second list will be highly overstocked when the fish are adults, for more than one reason.
As fish grow they put out more waste, not only feces, but also more importantly, urine, and although filtration helps keep the tank somewhat tolerable, water changes will probably need to be more than doubled in frequency and volume as they grow.
The other problem is territory.
All cichlids are somewhat territorial, and a 125 is barely enough territory for 1 adult 10" cichlid, not to mention the 6 on your 2nd list.
To me a 125 is really only enough territory for the 3 Nics, some dither fish and a bichir.
In nature I have watched a male Mayan guard an area of about 10 feet square.
In the video below most of the Mayans are females, and some subordinate males that got too close to that 10 foot territory. Note the actually escape room, if needed.
Azul imovie edit